Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/iowahandbookfor100park 


PAKKRR, 


1>I('KI!XSI 


' ^ ' ! ■ * V’  ^JflM 


lytfirSifTr 

ArjAMAtvM-: 


o]li  li  I N 


lIAXroCK 


B r X A 


;mviLiixT  ' 


JUiS  MDINF^ 


THE 


IOWA  HANDBOOK, 

) ' 

FOR 


18  5 6. 

WITH  A NEW  AND  COKRECT  MAP. 


BY 

NATHAN  II.  PARKER, 

AUTHOR  OP  “lOWA  AS  IT  IS,”  “SECTIONAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  MAP  OF  IOWA,” 
“MINNESOTA  HANDBOOK,”  ETC. 


BOSTON: 

JOHN  P.  JEWETT  AND  COMPANY. 

CLEVELAND,  OHIO  : II.  P.  B.  JEWETT. 

NEAV  YORK : SHELDON,  BLAKEMAN  AND  COMPANY. 

M DCCC  LVI. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1856,  by 
NATHAN  H.  PARKER, 

In  the  Clerk’s  OfiSlce  of  the  District  Court  for  the  District  of  Iowa. 


UTHOm’ED  BY  THE  AMERICAN  STEREOTYPE  COMPANY, 
PHCENEX  BUILDING,  BOSTON. 


ANDOVER; 

PRINTED  BY  W.  F.  DRAPER. 


PREFACE. 


The  extensive  sale  of  his  former  work,  “ Iowa  as  It  Is,” 
with  the  continued  demand  for  that  work,  and  the  still 
expressed  want  of  a cheaper  and  more  condensed  hand- 
book on  Iowa,  has  induced  the  author  of  these  pages  to 
place  them  before  the  public,  as  a cheap,  concise,  and 
reliable  Handbook,  with  statistics  brought  down  to  the 
present  time, 

[To  those  who  desire  a more  extensive  account  of  the 
State,  the  author  earnestly  recommends  “ Iowa  as  It  Is,” 
also  his  Sectional  and  Geological  Map  of  Iowa.”] 

That  this  work  may  aid  in  the  advancement  of  his 
beloved  State,  and  assist  in  the  development  of  the  for- 
tunes of  those  whose  enterprise  leads  them  to  seek,  in  her 
fertile  fields,  a sphere  of  action,  worthy  the  largest  capital 
and  the  highest  genius,  is  the  earnest  desire  of 

The  Author, 

Clinton,  Iowa,  August  17,  1856. 

(hi) 


CONTET^TS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Advantageous  Geographical  Position  of  Iowa, 

CHAPTER  II. 

The  Climate.  — The  Seasons.  — Prairie  Fires.  — Health. 
— Superiority  of  Iowa  over  other  Prairie  States.  — A 
Hint  to  the  Emigrant  regarding  Location,  . 

CHAPTER  HI. 

The  Soil.  — Its  adaptation  to  the  growth  of  Wood. — ■ 
Enormous  yield  of  Agricultural  products.  — Superi- 
ority of  Iowa  as  a Fruit-growing  State, 

CHAPTER  TV. 

General  Appearance  of  the  State. ^ — River  Scenery.— 
Prairie  Views, 

CHAPTER  V. 

Rivers  and  their  Tributaries.  — Lakes,  Springs,  and 
Wells.  — Timber  Lands  of  Iowa,  . . , . 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Mineral  resources  of  Iowa. — Lead,  Coal,  Iron,  Copper, 
Limestone,  Clays,  Quartzite,  Marble,  and  Gypsum, 

1#  (v) 


CONTENTS. 


vi 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Tour  through  Iowa.  — Glance  at  Iveokulc,  Fort  Madison, 
Montrose,  Denmark,  Keosauqua,  Bloomfield,  Corydon, 

Leon,  Mountain-Air,  Clarinda,  Sidney,  Glenwood, 
Council  Bluffs,  40 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Western  Iowa.  — Geography,  Climate,  Health,  Settle- 
ments, etc.,  . . . . . . . . 52 

CHAPTER  IX. 

From  Council  Bluffs  to  Demoine  City.  — Mississippi  and 
Missouri  Railroad  route.  — Influence  of  this  road 
upon  the  country  anticipated. — Demoine  City. — The 
State  Capitol.  — Jasper  and  Powesheik  counties,  . 56 

CHAPTER  X. 

Johnson  County.  — Iowa  City. — Her  Schools,  Churches, 

and  Business  statistics, 62 

CHAPTER  XL 

Davenport  and  her  surroundings. — Her  Churches,  Schools, 
Manufactories,  and  Business  statistics.  — Mississippi 
and  Missouri  Railroad.  — The  great  Railroad  bridge,  67 

CHAPTER  XII. 

From  Muscatine  to  Oscaloosa.  — Muscatine.  — Her  Busi- 
ness statistics  and  Railroad  connections. — Wapello. 

— Black  Hawk  the  Warrior.  — Columbus  City,  Wash- 
ington, Lancaster,  Sigourney,  Oscaloosa,  Eddy\'ille, 
Ottumwa,  and  Fairfield  described  and  statistics  given. 


72 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


% 

Fairfield  to  BurKngton.  — Fairfield,  Mount  Pleasant,  and 
Burlington ; statistics,  etc.  — Burlington  and  Missouri 
River  Railroad, 81 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Tour  from  Lyons  to  F ort  Dodge.  — Lyons  and  Cfinton. 

— The  Iowa  Land  Company.  -Dewitt,  Tipton,  Cedar 

Rapids,  Marion,  Vinton,  Toledo,  Marietta,  Nevada, 
Boonsborougli,  Homer,  and  Fort  Dodge  described,  . 87 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Tour  from  Fort  Dodge  to  Dubuque.  Kossuth  county. 

— The  Soil  of  Northwestern  Iowa.  — Webster  City.  — 

The  Counties  of  Hardin,  Franklin,  Butler,  Brewer, 

Black  Hawk,  and  Buchanan.  — The  towns  of  Cedar 
Falls,  Waterloo,  Independence,  Delhi,  and  Dubuque. 

— Business  statistics  of  Dubuque,  ....  99 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

From  Dubuque  to  Osage,  and  return.  — Scenery  on  the 
Upper  Mississippi. — Newly  discovered  Mineral  re- 
gion.— Description  of  Lansing,  Wawkon,  Decorah, 

Osage,  St.  Charles,  Bradford,  West  Union,  Ell^ador, 
Garnavillo,  and  Gutenburg.  — General  appearance  of 
Northeastern  Iowa,  _.  , , . . . 112 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Council  Blufis  to  Sioux  City. — Towns  on  the  Upjier 
Missouri.  — Sioux  City.  — Future  prospects  of  West- 
ern Iowa, . 


126 


vni 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XYIIL 

Jackson  County. — Her  Railroads,  To\ms,  Churches,  and 

Schools.  — Future  prospects,  etc.,  . . . . 131 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Railroads  in  Iowa. — Their  present  condition  and  future 
prospects.  — The  Iowa  Land  Grant,  and  its  influence 
upon  the  State. — Pubhc  Improvements.  — Des  Moines 
Improvements.  — Caution  to  Settlers,  . . .134 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Best  Routes  to  and  through  Iowa.  — Emigrant  Route  to 
Kansas.  — Immigration  mto  Iowa. — A "Word  to  Capi- 
talists. — Mechanics  and  Housebuilders  wanted  West,  146 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

General  Remarks  on  Agriculture.  — Osage  Orange 
Hedge.  — Cost  of  opening  a Farm. — AYool-growing 
and  Stock-raising,  . . . . . . .157 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Education  and  Rehgion.  — Churches,  Colleges,  and  Com- 
mon Schools,  ........  166 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

List  of  Iowa  Post-oflices,  alphabetically  arranged,  and 

divided  into  Counties,  together  with  their  Newspapers,  173 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Table  of  Pistances  to  and  through  Iowa,  by  River,  Rail- 
road, and  Stage  routes,  . . . . . 


181 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


CHAPTER  I. 

ADVANTAGEOUS  GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION  OF  IOWA. 

In  this  ever-changing,  busy,  utilitarian  age,  one 
of  the  most  familiar  sights  is  the  emigrant  Per- 
chance he  comes  from  the  starved  and  oppressed 
ranks  of  the  trans-atlantic  countries,  perchance 
from  a distant  or  a neighboring  State,  — the  cap- 
italist, with  means  for  developing  the  rich  resources 
of  some  heretofore  valueless  location ; the  farmer, 
with  heart  true  and  hands  strong,  to  carve  a for- 
tune from  the  rich  soil  of  some  prairie  State.  With 
all  classes  of  emigrants,  the  gaze  is  to  the  ivest- 
luard — to  more  fertile  fields,  more  genial  skies. 

In  contemplating  the  Western  States,  by  a 
casual  glance  at  the  map  of  our  country,  the  mind 
is  instantly  impressed  with  the  advantageous  geo- 
graphical position  of  Iowa.  Her  territory  lies 
between  two  of  the  largest  rivers  of  the  globe, 
both  navigable  for  many  hundreds  of  miles  above 
her  territory,  and  making,  on  the  other  hand,  an 

(9) 


10 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


open  highway  to  the  ocean  within  the  tropics. 
/ Bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parallel  40^  30',  on 
j on  the  south  by  43^  30',  thus  giving  her  the  most 
I favorable  latitude  in  the  temperate  zone,  she  has 
' an  area  of  56,000  square  miles,  being  upwards  of 
200  miles  wide  from  north  to  south,  and  more  than 
300  miles  long  from  east  to  west.  Again,  Iowa  is 
situated  midway  between  the  two  great  oceans  of 
the  world,  in  the  most  fertile  valley  on  the  globe, 
with  an  immense  tract  to  the  westward,  yet  to  be 
settled  and  converted  to  the  purposes  of  civilization ; 
on  the  east,  she  is  connected  by  all  the  great  high- 
ways with  the  Eastern  States,  teeming  with  wealth, 
and  rejoicing  in  an  enterprising  population,  whose 
invention  and  energy  know  no  limits.  With  these 
features  in  the  geography  of  Iowa,  with  the 
resom'ces  within  her  boundaries,  with  the  energetic 
population  within  her  borders,  who  shall  calculate 
her  future  ? 


CHAPTER  II. 

CLIMATE. 

This  State,  occupying  three  degrees  of  latitude, 
must  have  some  variations  of  climate.  In  the 
northern  part  the  winters  are  cold  and  dry,  but 
short.  Spring  comes  on  early,  so  that  the  farmer 
commences  his  work  in  the  month  of  March, 
seldom  as  late  as  April.  In  the  southern  portion 
of  the  State  the  winters  are  more  mild,  and  spring 
somewhat  earlier.  The  climate  is  free  from  the 
sudden  changes  of  New  England,  and  from  the 
long  drizzling  rains  and  foggy  weather  of  portions 
of  the  Middle  States,  and  those  States  within  the 
influence  of  the  great  lakes. 

The  springs  are  delightful  — air  clear  and  brac» 
ing,  gradually  changing  from  winter’s  chilliness 
to  summer’s  warmth.  The  summers  are  free  from 
the  long  scorching  rays  of  a more  southern  sun ; 
and  our  bluff  homes  and  upland  dales  are  contin- 
ually fanned  by  the  cool  breeze,  sweeping  over  the 
prairies,  bearing  health  and  rich  perfume  from  the 
green  verdure  and  brilliant  flowers  that  clothe  the 
earth  like  a fair  vesture. 

The  autumns  my  pen  cannot  describe;  the 

(11) 


12 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


poet’s  can  but  poorly.  The  American  autumn 
has  always  been  the  theme  that  tourists  and  poets 
“ most  do  rave  about ; ” but  here,  in  this  latitude, 
within  the  boundaries  of  this  State,  Earth  puts 
on  her  most  gorgeous  coloring,  her  brilliant  gala 
dress,  to  captivate  the  soul  of  mortals  with  her 
regal  beauty,  before  it  is  torn  from  her  by  the  rude 
grasp  of  the  Winter  king. 

When  the  summer  heat  relaxes,  the  winds  grow 
more  strong  and  bracing,  and  wild  gusts  flit  fitfully 
over  the  sea  of  prairie  green.  The  yellow  aster 
gleams  more  brightly  in  the  glow  of  the  autumn 
sun  ; the  corn  ripens  in  the  fields ; the  hardy  sons 
of  toil  (nature’s  truest  noblemen)  shout  the  har- 
vest welcome  home.”  The  wild  grasses  grow  yel- 
low in  the  uplands,  the  forest  tree  here  and  there 
flings  to  the  earth  a crimson  or  a yellow  leaf ; yet 
not  in  haste  do  they  give  up  their  vestments.  No- 
vember finds  all  our  glorious  prairies  beautiful  in 
their  wealth  of  changing  colors ; and  when  at  last 
the  frost  has  done  its  work,  the  sun,  as  if  in  pity 
for  his  children,  the  flowers,  Mngers  so  lovingly  and 
long,  kissing  the  seared  foliage  and  withered  sterns^ 
as  if  to  call  them  back  to  beauty  and  to  life,  that 
we  almost  fancy  winter  will  not  come. 

It  is  at  this  season  of  the  year  that  the  prairie 
fires  rage.  The  immense  mass  of  vegetation,  dried 
by  sun  and  frost,  leaves  the  whole  sm’face,  except 
the  cultivated  fields,  and  water-courses  with  the 
belts  of  timber  which  usually  sldrt  them,  covered 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


13 


with  combustible  material.  A single  spark  of  fire, 
falling  upon  the  prairie  at  such  a time,  instantly 
kindles  a blaze  that  spreads  on  every  side,  and  con- 
tinues its  destructive  course  as  long  as  it  finds  fuel. 
These  fires  sweep  along  with  great  power  and 
rapidity,  and  frequently  extend  across  a wide  prairie 
and  advance  in  a long  line.  No  sight  can  be  more 
sublime  than  a stream  of  fire,  beheld  at  night, 
several  miles  in  breadth,  advancing  across  the  plains, 
leaving  behind  it  a background  of  dense  black 
smoke,  throwing  before  it  a vivid  glare,  which  lights 
up  the  whole  landscape  for  miles  with  the  brilliancy 
of  noonday.  The  progress  of  the  fire  is  so  slow, 
and  the  heat  so  intense,  that  every  combustible  in 
its  course  is  consumed.  The  roots  of  the  prairie 
grass  and  of  several  species  of  flowers,  however,  by 
some  peculiar  adaptation  of  nature  are  spared. 

A narrow  strip  of  bare  ground,  or  a beaten  road 
the  width  of  a common  wagon-track,  will  prevent 
the  fire  from  spreading  beyond  it;  yet  cctreless, 
thoughtless  farmers  sometimes  suffer  tall  grass  to 
connect  their  fields  of  corn  and  fences  with  the 
wild  prairie,  and  forfeit  their  year’s  toil  as  a penalty 
for  their  slothfulness  I 

Health.  — - Of  the  healthfulness  of  our  State,  I 
can  say,  it  is  located  in  the  healthiest  latitude  on 
our  continent.  By  medical  journals  it  is  ranked 
as  second  in  point  of  health  (North  Carolina 
only  being  superior),  and  I doubt  not  it  will  be 
2 


14 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


firsts  when  it  has  a settled  and  acclimated  popula- 
tion, as  free  from  toil,  privation,  and  exposure  as 
other  States. 

Dr.  UpdegrafF,  a correspondent  of  the  Ohio 
Farmer^  thus  alludes  to  our  climate,  etc. : 

“ Of  all  other  considerations  respecting  a new 
country,  the  most  important  is  as  to  It'S)  healthiness. 

“ In  this  respect,  Iowa  has  the  advantage  of  most 
new  countries.  An  open  prairie  country,  almost 
universally  rolling,  or  even  hilly,  it  is  more  favorable 
to  health  than  flat  prairie  or  level  woodland.  The 
streams  are  mostly  fresh  running  water,  with  sandy 
or  gravel  beds.  The  scarcity  of  timber-land,  and 
the  annual  fires  that  pass  over  the  prairies,  prevent, 
to  a great  degree,  the  decomposition  of  vegetable 
matter ; which  is,  in  most  new  countries,  the  great 
source  of  disease.  With  some  local  exceptions, 
there  does  not  seem  to  be  any  natural  reason  why 
this  State,  even  in  its  early  settlement,  should  not 
enjoy  as  high  an  average  of  healthiness  as  Ohio 
nov)  does.  Such  I believe  to  be  the  fact,  after 
making  proper  deductions  for  change  of  climate, 
mode  of  life,  exposure,  and  unusual  exertion.  To 
observe  the  exertion  and  exposure,  often  reckless 
and  unnecessary,  to  which  most  new  settlers  sub- 
ject themselves,  it  becomes  a matter  of  surprise 
that  disease  and  mortality  are  not  much  more  usual 
than  they  are.” 

A very  common  mistake  settlers  make,  is,  that 
of  building  their  houses  near  some  belt  of  timber, 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


15 


on  low  ground,  or  in  some  narrow  ravine,  to  escape 
the  force  of  the  prairie  winds.  The  high  ground 
is  healthiest;  and  the  settler  who  brings  his  wife 
and  little  ones  into  a new  country,  to  find  a new 
home,  had  better  build  his  house  on  the  high  prairie, 
and  brave  the  force  of  our  strong  free  v/inds,  than 
breathe  the  miasmatic  vapors  of  the  ravines  and 
low  grounds.  Another  cause  of  sickness,  I believe, 
is  the  absence  of  a full  supply  of  fruit.  When 
our  State  shall  have  her  orchards,  and  garden  fruits 
growing  on  each  farm,  then  a great  preventive  of 
disease  is  furnished. 


CHAPTER  III. 


SOIL. 

It  is  known  to  the  scientific  fanner,  that  the  soil 
best  suited  for  wheat  culture  and  cereal  grains,  and 
in  which  the  earthy,  saline,  and  organic  matters  are 
distributed  in  the  best  proportions,  adapted  to  im- 
part fertility  and  durability,  is  generally  based  on 
the  calcareous  and  magnesi-calcareous  rocks.  This 
condition  particularly  characterizes  the  country 
bordering  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries, 
between  the  41st  and  45th  degree  of  latitude,  in- 
cluding that  portion  of  Iowa  which  is  watered  by 
the  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi.  In  Owen's 
Geological  Report  we  find  the  following : 

“ The  prairie  country,  based  on  rocks  belonging 
to  the  Devonian  and  carboniferous  systems,  ex- 
tending up  the  valley  of  the  Red  Cedar,  Iowa,  and 
Des  Moines,  as  high  as  latitude  42^  31 ',  presents 
a body  of  arable  land  which,  taken  as  a whole,  for 
richness  and  organic  elements,  for  amount  of  saline 
matter,  and  due  admixture  of  earthy  silicates, 
affords  a combination  that  belongs  only  to  the  most 
fertile  upland  plains.  Throughout  this  district  the 
general  levelness  of  the  surface,  interrupted  only 

(IG) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


17 


by  gentle  swells  and  moderate  undulations,  offers 
facilities  for  the  introduction  of  all  those  aids  which 
machinery  is  daily  adding  to  diminish  the  labor  of 
cultivation,  and  render  easy  and  expeditious  the 
collection  of  an  abundant  harvest.” 

Again,  in  speaking  of  the  physical  and  agricul- 
tural character  of  that  portion  of  the  State  border- 
ing on  the  Mississippi,  near  the  foot  of  the  lower 
rapids,  Owen  says : 

“ The  carboniferous  rocks  of  Iowa  occupy  a 
region  of  country  which,  taken  as  a whole,  is  one 
of  the  most  fertile  in  the  United  States.  No 
country  can  present  to  the  farmer  greater  facilities 
for  subduing,  in  a short  time,  wild  land.  Its  native 
prairies  are  fields  almost  ready  made  to  his  hands. 
Its  rich,  black  soil,  scarcely  less  productive  than 
that  of  the  Cedar  Valley,  returns  him  reward  for 
his  labor  a hundred-fold.” 

There  is  no  soil  in  the  world,  perhaps,  where  the 
woody  fibre  of  trees  and  shrubs  grows  so  rapidly  as 
in  the  prairie  soil. 

Apple  trees  bear  from  one  half  a bushel  to  one 
and  a half  bushels  per  tree,  the  fifth  year  after  plant- 
ing. I think  now  of  elm  trees  growing  in  the  streets 
of  Davenport,  which  were  planted  seventeen  years 
ago,  that  to-day  a man’s  extended  arms  cannot  en- 
compass. It  is  estimated,  by  good  judges  of  these 
things,  that  timber  increases  faster  in  the  State  than 
it  is  used. 

To  substantiate  this,  I may  say  that  here  we  are 
2* 


18 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


careful  of  wood,  and  do  not  waste  it  in  any  way ; 
and,  as  the  State  becomes  settled,  the  annual  fires 
are  kept  out  of  the  young  forests  and  thickets,  thus 
adding  much  to  the  growth.  Chemical  agricul- 
turists attribute  this  rapid  growth  of  wood  on  the 
prairie  soil  to  the  large  amount  of  potassa  con- 
tained within  it,  and  formed  by  the  annual  burning 
of  the  wild  grasses. 

As  a further  illustration  of  the  fertility  of  the 
soil,  I will  mention  some  products  I saw  exhibited 
at  the  State  fair.  Robert  Rawlins,  of  Washington 
county,  exhibited  8 stalks  of  corn,  11  feet  high,  11 
ears,  10  rows  on  each  ear,  and  47  kernels  to  a row, 
making  88  feet  of  stalk,  5170  kernels  of  plump  white 
corn,  the  produce  of  a single  kernel ! Messrs.  Har- 
row, of  Wappello  county,  exhibited  specimens  from 
a field  of  corn  which  produced  the  extraordinary 
yield  of  one  hundred  and  sixty-eight  bushels 
TO  AN  ACRE ! Jerome  Parsons,  of  Jefferson  county, 
exhibited  specimens  of  red-chaff  bearded  wheat 
from  the  almost  unprecedented  yield  of  forty- 
seven  BUSHELS  TO  THE  ACRE.  Ill  JeffersoH  couiity, 
105  bushels  of  potatoes  were  raised  to  an  acre ; 
some  specimens  exhibited  at  the  fair  measm*ed  9 
to  16  inches  in  circumference.  Of  beets,  some 
were  27  inches  in  length  ; other  specimens,  31 
inches  in  circumference,  weighed  17  pounds. 
Squashes  in  western  Iowa  weighed  100  pounds; 
and,  in  northern  Iowa,  a vine,  275  feet  long, 
bore,  among  others,  five  squashes,  which  averaged 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


19 


80  pounds  each.  I have  had  apples  weighing  24 
ounces  each,  and  pears  of  28  ounces. 

I will  copy  here  an  article  from  one  of  our  lead- 
ing agricultural  works,  which  gives  the  reader  some 
idea  of  our  products ; and  he  may  then  be  prepared 
to  understand  why,  at  the  late  Horticultural  con- 
vention held  at  Burlington,  Iowa,  where  all  or 
many  of  the  States  were  represented  in  fruit  spe- 
cimens, Iowa  took  the  premium  on  both  apples 
and  pears. 

P.  Barry,  former  editor  of  the  Horticulturist^ 
gives  a glowing  account  of  the  size  and  beauty  of 
specimens  of  our  standard  fruits,  grown  in  Iowa. 
He  remarks  : I have  never  been  taken  so  much 

by  surprise  as  I was  in  visiting  some  of  the  gar- 
dens around  Burlington.  Buerrie  Diels  weighing 
a pound  and  a half;  Swan’s  Orange  about  as 
large ; Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey  and  Vicar  of 
Winkfield,  enormous.  Some  monster  Bartletts 
had  been  preserved  in  ice.  The  garden  of  W.  F. 
Coolbaugh,  Esq.,  is  on  the  top  of  the  bluff,  and 
contains  scarcely  an  acre  — there  I found  pear 
trees,  beautiful  pyramids,  all  on  quince  roots, 
about  seven  or  eight  years  old,  now  eight  to  ten 
feet,  or  twelve  feet  high.  The  early  varieties  were 
of  course  gone,  but  I found  on  the  trees  Beurre 
Diel,  Beurre  d’ Anjou,  Vicar  of  Winkfield,  Glout 
Morceau,  Beurre  d’ Aremberg,  and  others,  all  nearly 
twice  as  large  as  good  specimens  grown  in  Ne\‘^ 
York.  The  trees  were  remarkably  vigorous,  and 


20 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


hung  full  of  fruit  — what  a sight ! Ail  this  with- 
out any  special  manures  or  cultm’e  of  any  kind; 
the  ground  was  merely  kept  clean.”  At  Dr.  Tal- 
lant’s,  a fine  tree  of  the  Brandywine  pear  was  seen, 
which  had  borne  specimens  weighing  a pound.  In 
the  collection  of  A.  Hillery,  the  specimens  were 
estimated  to  range  between  eighteen  and  twenty- 
five  ounces,  “ and  were  as  fair  as  wax- work.” 

Western  cultivators,  as  we  have  before  remarked, 
have  gone  thoroughly  and  extensively  into  the  cul- 
ture of  fruit.  One  nursery  at  Burlington,  that  of 
Comstock  & Avery,  contains  in  various  stages  of 
growth  some  six  hundred  thousand  apple  trees. 
At  the  Bornological  meeting  there,  more  than  ten 
collections  from  that  region  contained  from  forty 
to  eighty  varieties  of  apples  each. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


GENERAL  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  STATE. 

The  scenes  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  as 
well  as  on  those  of  the  Missouri,  which  are  some- 
what similar,  form  a distinct  feature  in  our  land- 
scapes. As  the  traveller  approaches  the  Mississippi 
from  the  east,  he  does  not  find,  as  perchance  he  may 
anticipate,  on  approaching  the  source  of  one  of  the 
two  largest  rivers  on  the  globe,  elevated  peaks  rising 
in  majestic  grandeur  to  meet  the  clouds,  mountain 
torrents  shrouded  in  foam  chafing  their  rocky  chan- 
nels, deep  and  narrow  valleys  hemmed  in  on  every 
side,  forming  as  it  were  little  worlds  of  their  own, 
cavernous  gorges  giving  exit  to  pent  up  waters, 
contorted  and  twisted  strata,  affording  evidence  of 
gigantic  and  violent  throes ; but  fecdures  less  bold, 
though  not  less  marked,  in  their  character. 

In  a few  instances,  the  hills  or  bluffs  along  the 
Mississippi  rise  boldly  from  the  water’s  edge,  and 
present  their  step  promontories  so  as  to  change 
the  course  of  the  river.  These  promontories, 
crowned  with  castellated  rocks,  that  rear  their  bas- 
tions high  above  the  summit  of  the  hill,  look 
like  some  old  feudal  castle,  deserted  and  left  for 

(21 


22 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


the  ivy  to  creep  among  its  broken  stones.  This 
occurs  at  Dubuque  and  farther  up  the  ]\Iississippi. 
But^  more  generally,  on  either  bank  of  the  river  is 
seen  a series  of  graceful  slopes,  swelling  and  sink- 
ing as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  — the  luxuriant 
sward  clothing  the  ground,  even  down  to  the 
water’s  edge.  In  some  instances  the  heavy  forest 
covers  aU  these  lovely  slopes  with  timber  of  the 
finest  quality,  the  oak  prevailing.  Again,  these 
beautifully  rounded  bluffs  revel  in  their  carpet  of 
green,  dotted  here  and  there  with  clumps  of  trees, 
that  would  baffle  the  skill  of  the  landscape  gard- 
ner  to  imitate,  now  crowning  the  grassy  heights, 
now  dotting  the  green  slopes  with  partial  or 
isolated  shade. 

These  slopes,  and  the  rich  alluvial  bottoms  that 
intervene,  furnish  the  sites  for  the  numerous  cities 
that  stand  along  the  banks  of  the  Father  of  Wa- 
ters, like  gems  in  the  great  sea  of  commerce. 

From  the  hilltops  the  intervening  valleys  wear 
the  aspect  of  cultivated  meadows  and  rich  pasture - 
grounds,  irrigated  by  frequent  rivulets,  that  wend 
their  way  through  fields  of  wild  hay,  fringed  with 
flourishing  willows.  On  the  summit  level  spreads 
the  wild  prairie,  decked  with  flowers  of  the  gayest 
hue,  its  long  undulating  waves  stretching  away  till 
sky  and  meadow  mingle  in  the  wavy  blue. 

Here,  now,  where  less  than  twenty  years  ago 
the  red  man  fought  his  battles  with  his  sanguinary 
foe,  and  chased  the  bison  and  the  elk,  monarch  of 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


2? 


all  this  glorious  scene,  are  the  prairie  farms  and 
prairie  homes  of  Iowa.  Rich  from  teeming  wealth 
of  soil,  and  waving  in  the  breeze,  stands  the 
grain  in  these  fair  fields,  while  Art  and  Nature 
combine  to  render  beautiful  the  homes  of  her  noble 
sons  of  toil.  As  the  traveller  advances,  he  meets 
with  lots  of  heavy  timber  sldrting  ail  the  numer- 
ous streams  that  find  their  way  to  the  rivers  that 
intersect  this  beautiful  State.  Not  alone  on  the 
water-courses  does  the  timber  lie,  for  frequent 
groves  dot  the  extended  landscape  on  every  hand, 
like  islands  in  this  sea  of  green.  Art,  Science,  and 
Manufactures  gather  their  busy  multitudes  here, 
and  take  possession  of  these  sylvan  scenes.  The 
ear  of  the  traveller  is  greeted  by 

— - — “the  mill-stream’s  fall, 

The  engine’s  pant  along  its  quivering  rails, 

The  anvil’s  ring,  the  measured  beat  of  flails. 

The  sweep  of  scythes,  the  reaper’s  whistled  tune. 

Answering  the  summons  of  the  bells  of  noon. 

The  woodman’s  hail  along  the  river  shores. 

The  steamboat’s  signal,  and  the  dip  of  oars. 
#•*#*** 

Broad  on  either  hand 

The  golden  wheat-fields  glimmered  in  the  sun, 

And  the  tall  maize  its  yellow  tassels  spun. 

Smooth  highways  set  with  hedgerows’  living  green. 

With  steepled  towns  through  shaded  vistas  seen ; 

The  school-house  murmuring  with  its  hive-like  swarm 
The  brook-bank  whitening  in  the  grist-mill’s  storm. 

The  painted  farm-house  shining  through  the  leaves 
Of  fruited  orchards  bending  at  its  eaves. 

Where  live  again,  around  the  Western  hearth. 

The  homely,  old-time  virtues  of  the  North ; 


24 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


Where  the  blithe  housewife  rises  with  the  day, 
And  well-paid  labor  counts  its  task  a play, 

And,  grateful  tokens  of  the  Bible  free, 

And  the  free  Gospel  of  Humanity, 

Of  diverse  sects  and  differing  names  the  shrines. 
One  in  their  faith,  whate’er  their  outward  signs. 
Like  varying  strophes  of  the  same  sweet  hymn 
Lrom  many  a prairie’s  swell  and  river’s  brim, 

A thousand  church-spires  sanctify  the  air 
Of  the  calm  Sabbath,  with  the  sign  of  prayer.” 


CHAPTER  V. 


RIVERS  AND  THEIR  TRIBUTARIES.  — LAKES,  SPRINGS, 
AND  WELLS. 

No  State  in  the  Union  is  more  bountifully  sup- 
plied with  water  than  Iowa;  being  bounded  on 
the  east  by  one  of  the  finest  rivers  in  the  world, 
the  Mississippi,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Missouri ; 
the  interior  of  the  State  being  traversed  in  every 
direction  by  noble,  and  in  many  cases  navigable, 
streams,  many  of  them  running  parallel  to  each 
other,  from  twelve  to  twenty  miles  apart,  skirted 
v/ith  timber  of  from  one  to  five  miles  in  width. 
Our  rivers  have  not  the  rapidity  of  the  New  Eng- 
land streams,'  nor  the  depth  and  sluggishness  of 
those  of  the  South ; but  are  clear,  fresh,  and 
healthy,  of  gentle  current,  and  capable  of  fur- 
nishing water-power  for  all  purposes. 

The  rivers  that  are  directly  tributary  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi are  the  Upper  Iowa,  Turkey,  Maquote- 
ka,  Wapsipinnicon,  Cedar,  Iowa,  Fox,  Checaqu© 
(commonly  called  Skunk),  and  the  Des  Moines. 
Those  running  into  the  Missouri  are  Floyd’s,  Lit- 
tle Sioux,  Inyan  Yankee,  Soldier,  Boyer,  Nishna- 
botna,  Big  Tarkeo,  and  Nodaway. 

8 


(25) 


26 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


“ The  untold  power  of  these  waters  is  being 
utilized  for  mechanical  purposes  ; and  but  a short 
time  will  elapse  ere  the  thunder  and  clatter  of  the 
ten  thousand  wheels  of  machinery  W’-ill  break  upon 
that  solitude  which  once  echoed  only  to  the  har- 
vest-song or  the  notes  of  the  sweet  warblers  of  the 
forest.  Extensive  works  are  already  commenced 
upon  more  than  one  of  these  rivers  which  will 
stamp  our  greatness  and  convince  the  world  that 
‘ progress  ’ is  our  watchword.” 

Beside  the  numerous  rivers  and  small  streams, 
we  have  many  inexhaustible  springs,  pure  and 
cool,  gushing  from  the  earth.  In  one  day’s  travel 
through  the  county  of  Jackson,  where  I did  not 
pass  over  more  than  twenty  miles,  I found  more 
than  that  number  of  springs  bubbling  up  in  the 
meadows  by  the  hillside,  or  in  the  farmer’s  Idtchen, 
yielding  always  a full  supply  of  the  coolest  and 
softest  water.  In  Winnesheik  county,  near  Deco- 
rah, are  springs  gushing  out  from  among  rocks  far 
above  the  level  of  the  Iowa  river,  that  afford  water 
power  sufficient  to  run  flouring  and  saw-mills 
which  are  capable  of  doing  an  extensive  business. 

Much  of  the  water  obtained  by  digging  is  im- 
pregnated with  lime,  but  is  most  pure  and  refresh- 
ing. Those  who  become  accustomed  to  the  pecu- 
liar life  that  this  water  seems  to  possess,  find  what 
is  termed  soft  water  insipid  to  the  taste.  The 
lakes  of  Iowa  are  numerous  in  the  northern  por- 
tion of  the  State,  and  are  filled  with  the  finest  fish. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


27 


Theii’  beauty  forms  no  inconsiderable  object  of  in- 
terest to  the  traveller. 

Timber  Lands  of  Iowa. — Depending  upon,  to  a> 
certain  extent,  and  connected  with,  the  water-courses 
are  the  timber  lands  of  Iowa.  According  to  the  most 
reliable  estimates,  at  least  one4enth  part  of  the  State 
of  Iowa  is  timber  lomd.  Of  this,  a considerable 
portion  is  of  inferior  quality ; and  the  supply  of  the 
fairest  growth  of  timber,  such  as  is  found  in  Ohio 
and  northern  Wisconsin,  is  comparatively  small. 
Yet  along  the  sti’eams  there  are  thousands  of  acres 
covered  with  an  excellent  growth  of  oak,  walnut, 
ash,  lime,  maple,  hickory,  elm,  and  cotton-wood. 
These  varieties  differ  in  diiferent  localities.  Along 
the  Iowa  and  Cedar  Rivers  there  is  a large  amount 
of  oak  of  all  varieties,  and  the  valley  of  the  Des 
Moines  is  abundantly  supplied  with  walnut  and 
other  valuable  timber.  I have  seen  on  the  banks 
of  the  Mississippi  as  fine  a growth  of  oak  as  could 
be  desired;  trees  three  and  four  feet  in  diame- 
ter, standing  in  a body,  miles  in  length,  and  three 
miles  in  width.  The  Pvlissouri  has  heavy  timber  aU 
along  its  banks.  Hickory  and  walnut  are  abun- 
dant on  the  Iowa,  Skunk,  Cedar,  and  other  rivers. 
Besides  the  full-grown  timAer,  there  are  thousands 
of  acres  of  a vigorous  young  growth,  that  has  at 
last  conquered  the  prairie  fires,  and  is  now  rapidly 
coming  to  maturity.  In  addition  to  these,  there 


28 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


is  a vast  amount  of  locust  being  cultivated.  This 
grows  here  with  a rapidity  that  is  seldom  equalled 
elsewhere.  I have  seen  trees  at  the  age  of  ten 
years  that  would  make  eight  posts  of  sufficient  size 
for  fencing.  Thus,  there  is  an  abundance  of  tim- 
ber for  present  purposes,  and  it  is  believed,  by  those 
best  informed,  that,  notwithstanding  the  constant 
demand,  the  supply  is  every  day  increasing,  both 
from  natural  and  cultivated  sources. 

The  unequal  distribution  of  the  wooded  land  is 
a greater  objection  than  its  actual  quantity.  Some- 
times the  prairies  are  from  twenty  to  forty  miles  in 
width,  thus  maldng  timber  inconveniently  distant 
These,  however,  are  rare  cases,  and,  at  the  worst,  are 
bearable,  compared  to  the  lifelong  drudgery  of 
woodland  pioneering. 

The  large  amount  of  coal  that  is  now  discovered 
in  the  various  sections  of  the  State  obviates,  to  a 
great  extent,  the  limited  supply  of  timber  land. 
The  rapidly-increasing  facilities  for  intercommu- 
nication are  also  fast  equalizing  the  advantages  of 
different  localities.  It  is  not  the  economy  of  nature 
that  any  one  spot  should  monopolize  all  natural 
advantages ; but  some  portions  of  Iowa  appear  to 
combine  as  many  as  are  often  found  harmonizing. 

The  portion  of  Iowa  most  deficient  in  timber 
is  north  of  latitude  42°,  especially  on  dividing 
ridges.  North  of  this  latitude,  between  the  head- 
waters of  Th*ree  and  Grand  Rivers,  there  are  dis- 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


29 


tances  of  ten  or  fifteen  miles  without  any  timber ; 
while  between  the  waters  of  Grand  River,  the 
Nodaway,  and  the  Nishnabotna,  the  open  prairie 
is  often  twenty  miles  wide,  without  a bush  to  be 
seen  higher  than  the  v/ild  indigo  and  the  compass 
plant. 


2=^ 


CHAPTER  VI. 

MINERAL  RESOURCES  OF  IOWA 

For  a knowledge  of  the  mineral  resources  of 
Iowa,  I am  indebted  to  Owen^s  Geological  Report 
of  the  North-west,  a survey  made  under  the  di- 
rection of  the  government  some  years  since,  and 
to  actual  observations  made  during  various  tours 
through  the  State,  together  with  all  the  late  and 
recent  discoveries  of  minerals  up  to  the  present 
date.  At  the  present  time  Prof.  Hall  is  in  the  field, 
carrying  on  a new  series  of  observations,  under 
direction  of  the  government  of  the  State  of  Iowa ; 
but  no  report  has  as  yet  been  made. 

The  principal  minerals  are  lead,  coal,  iron,  cop- 
per, hydraulic  limestone,  quartzite,  clays,  common 
or  mountain  limestone,  marble,  and  gypsum.  The 
richest  and  far  the  most  celebrated  lead  mines 
lie  in  the  bluffs  back  of  the  city  of  Dubuque.  The 
following  will  show  somewhat  the  value  and  extent 
of  the  mining  operations  : 

Lead  exported  from  Dubuque  in  1854,  4,385  tons. 

Value  $526,200. 

Ditto  in  1855,  5,262  tons. 

Ditto  $631,440, 


(30) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


31 


This  city  — the  oldest  white  settlement  in  the 
State  — takes  its  name  from  M.  Dubuque,  a 
Frenchman,  who  obtained  a grant  from  the 
Spanish  government  for  mining  lead  in  this 
region.  It  was  first  settled  in  1786. 

Mining  at  Dubuque  is  carried  on  with  very  little 
system.  A lode  is  struck  by  many  months  labor 
at  digging,  and  then  a few  more  persons  are  put 
to  the  work,  and  the  mineral  is  brought  up  in  tubs 
to  the  surface,  weighed,  and  sent  to  the  smelting 
house,  and  then  shipped.  Lead  has  been  found  in 
various  places  in  considerable  quantities,  in  Clay- 
ton county,  on  the  Turkey  River,  fifteen  miles 
above  the  mouth.  More  or  less  “ Galena’’  is  found 
in  all  the  principal  exposures  of  rock,  in  deep  river 
cuts,  about  the  Turkey  and  the  Upper  Iowa.  Be- 
tween the  Yellow  and  the  Iowa,  places  are  visible 
where  the  Indians  have  dug  for  lead.  On  the  old 
Winnebago  reseiwe,  not  far  from  the  Iowa  River, 
and  a few  miles  northwest  of  the  town  of  Lan- 
sing, it  has  been  found  in  small  quantities,  chiefly 
in  pockets  and  cavities.  A Mr.  Tichnor,  formerly 
from  PlatteviUe,  struck  a valuable  lode  of  lead  ore 
on  Silver  Creek,  a small  stream  running  into  the 
Little  Iowa,  about  tv/elve  miles  west  of  Lansinc. 
It  is  represented  as  an  east  and  west  sheet,  in  a 
regular  perpendicular  crevice,  six  inches  in  thick- 
ness and  ten  feet  in  height,  with  every  appearance 
of  continuance.  They  are  raising  about  four 


32 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


thousand  pounds  per  day.  There  is  quite  an  ex- 
tent of  country  lying  directly  west  of  Lansing, 
where  small  quantities  of  lead  ore  have  been  found 
on  the  surface ; but  it  has  not,  except  to  a very 
limited  extent,  been  mined  for.  This  is  the  first 
regular  lode  that  has  been  struck,  that  we  have 
heard  of. 

Copper. — Recently  a new  discovery  has  been 
made  of  copper  ore  in  the  counties  of  Floyd  and 
Mitchell,  which,  from  latest  accounts,  promises  to 
be  of  considerable  value.  Dr.  Dov/ns,  of  Osage, 
Mitchell  county,  is  our  informant.  The  extent  or 
quality  had  not  been  decided. 

Iron  ore  is  found  in  various  places  in  the  Des 
Moines  Valley;  Owen  thought,  in  some  locations, 
of  sufficient  productiveness  to  justify  smelting. 
There  are,  as  yet,  no  works  for  working  raw  iron 
ore  in  the  State. 

In  a recent  tour  I have  examined  the  Jackson 
county  iron  ores ; they  extend  over  a good  propor- 
tion of  the  county,  but  I think  will  hardly  justify 
working. 

Coal. — The  Iowa  coal-field  embraces  an  area  of 
about  25,000  square  miles.^  A very  good  idea  of 
its  locality  may  be  obtained  by  taldng  the  map  of 
the  State,  and  drawing  a line,  commencing  near 
the  south-west  corner  of  the  State,  in  Fremont 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


S3 


county,  proceeding  up  the  Nishnabotna,  thence  to 
Lake  Wattles,  thence  to  the  parallel  of  43°  north 
latitude,  on  the  west  fork  of  the  Des  Moines,  thence 
it  bends  southeast  to  the  head  waters  of  the  lower 
Iowa,  following  the  course  of  that  river  at  a dis- 
tance of  about  twenty  miles  north  until  it  reaches 
Cedar  county,  which  it  passes  through  in  a south- 
easterly direction,  until  it  reaches  the  Mississippi 
near  Davenport.  This  coal  basin  is  clearly  defined 
on  the  large  “ Sectional  and  Geological  Map  of 
Iowa,”  by  the  author  of  this  work.  The  Des 
Moines  River  runs  diagonally  and  centrally  through 
v/hat  is  termed  “the  carboniferous  system  of  Iowa.” 
This  system  is  called  carboniferous  because  it  is 
that  particular  division  of  rocks  in  which  the  coal 
measures  are  found,  and  because  it  contains  that 
series  of  rocks,  of  comparatively  modern  date, 
which,  in  their  composition,  are  so  largely  carbon. 
Underneath  and  sometimes  between  the  strata  of 
these  rocks  are  the  coal  beds  that’  appear  in  vari- 
ous places  in  Iowa.  The  most  frequent  out-crop- 
pings are  found  along  the  banks  of  the  Des  Moines. 
A basin  of  15  feet  in  thickness  has  been  found  in 
a bank  opposite  Farmington.  When  the  out-crops 
are  more  than  four  or  five  feet,  they  must  be 
suspected  as  being  basins,  unless,  in  the  cut  of  a 
stream,  at  some  distance,  the  vein  is  ascertained  to 
have  the  same  thickness.  Ov/en  says  there  is  no 
vein  of  more  than  four  or  five  feet  in  thickness  hi 
Iowa, 


84 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  river,  where 
the  limestones,  which  lie  below  the  coal,  make 
their  appearance,  the  coal  strata  are  usually  want- 
ing. This  is  the  case  at  Bonaparte,  Bentonsport, 
Keosauqua,  and  Ottumwa.  But  in  these  the  coal 
strata  may  be,  and  actually  are,  found  in  creelis  at 
no  great  distance  from  the  river ; sometimes  even 
upon  the  bluiis. 

The  southeast  and  northwest  parts  of  Van 
Buren  county,  the  northeast  part  of  Davis,  the 
central  part  of  Y/apello,  the  southern  part  of 
Mahaska,  and  the  southeastern  and  central  parts 
of  Marion,  are  rich  in  coal.  But  other  portions  of 
the  same  counties  are  not  wanting.  So  far  as  can 
he  learned  from  the  table,  and  so  far  as  the  obser- 
vation and  knov/ledge  of  the  writer  extends,  the 
heaviest  beds  are  usually  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river.  The  best  beds  are  also  there.  Some  of 
these  are  also  on  the  White  Breast,  Cedar,  and 
Soap  Creeks.  The  principal  exception  to  this  rule 
is  in  the  southeast  part  of  Van  Buren  county. 
Here  it  exists  in  great  abundance  on  both  sides  of 
the  river.  It  is  equal  in  quality  to  any  found  below 
Marion  county.  Two  veins  are  worked  to  con- 
siderable extent  in  connection ; the  two  afford  from 
4 1-2  to  5 1-2  feet.  On  the  west  side  of  the  river,  it 
is  said  the  two  are  separated  by  a vein  of  fire-clay, 
which  thins  out,  and  the  coal  veins  converge  as 
they  recede  from  the  river.  These  veins  are  shown 
in  the  cuts  made  by  the  creeks  for  miles  in  distance 
to  the  west 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


35 


Coal  has  been  found  on  nearly  all  the  rivers 
of  Iowa.  At  Davenport,  cannei  coal  has  been  dis- 
covered, as  well  as  a good  quality  of  bituminous. 
The  same  may  be  said  of  Pduscatine.  The  thickest 
vein  or  outcropping  found  in  the  State,  as  far  as  my 
observation  or  information  extends,  is  at  Steamboat 
Rock  and  Eldora,  in  Hardin  county;  some  out- 
croppings there  showing  a thickness  of  14  feet. 
These  places  being  situated  on  the  direct  line  of 
the  Dubuque  and  Pacific  Railroad,  and  being  the 
nearest  coal  mines  to  the  city  of  Dubuque,  will 
be  speedily  and  profitably  worked. 

At  Demoine  City  are  splendid  beds  of  coal  out- 
cropping on  either  side  of  the  Des  Moines  River. 
The  lack  of  timber  suitable  for  fuel  in  Iowa  need 
be  no  drawback  to  the  development  and  settle- 
ment of  the  State,  since  there  is  coal  enough  under- 
lying all  the  central  and  southern  part  of  the 
State  to  serve  the  generations  of  men  for  ages  to 
come. 

PIydraulic  Limestone.  — Of  this  stone,  lime  is 
formed  which  will  set  under  water.  It  is  essential 
for  all  masonry  exposed  to  the  water  and  to  damp- 
ness, There  are  several  varieties  of  -it;  one  is 
called  Septaria.  This  is  found  in  the  form  of 
round  or  flattened  balls  of  various  sizes.  This  is 
the  kind  from  which  the  English  prepare  the  cele- 
brated Roman  cement. 

Owen  says:  “ Cement  rock  is  found  both  above 


36 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


and  below  the  coal,  but  in  the  largest  quantities 
above.  The  reader  will  find  mention  of  it  by 
consulting  Owen’s  Pteport^  pp.  112,  127 ; and  more 
frequently  still  in  that  part  of  it  which  gives  the 
geological  structure  between  Fort  Des  Moines  and 
Fort  Dodge.  It  is  a very  common  rock  in  the 
valley ; probably  in  every  county  on  the  river 
below  Fort  Dodge.  In  many  places  contiguous 
to  the  river,  in  Davis  county,  there  are  strata 
of  it  several  feet  in  thickness.  The  geological 
structure  of  the  southeast  and  central  parts  of 
Marion  county  are  just  the  same  as  in  Davis. 
But,  as  the  series  of  rocks  above  the  coal  show 
themselves  more  extensively  above  Racoon  Fork, 
we  accordingly  find  more  frequent  mention  of  it 
in  that  region.  In  some  places  large  quantities 
of  it  are  wrought  into  cement,  which  is  quite 
extensively  used  in  the  river  improvement. 

“ It  will  readily  be  seen  that  the  demand  for  this 
is  great,  when  it  is  said  that  $6000  worth,  at  the 
ordinary  prices,  will  be  wanted  for  every  lock  on 
the  river,  and  when  it  is  also  said  that  in  nearly 
every  dwelling  in  the  western  country,  cisterns 
coated  with  this  cement  will  be  indispensable  as 
the  means  of  obtaining  a supply  of  pure  soft 
water.  The  walls  and  floors  of  damp  cellars  must 
also  be  laid  in  cement.  And  the  cement  of  this 
valley  will  be  wanted  because  it  is  more  accessi- 
ble ; the  present  demand  being  supplied,  in  a great 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


37 


measure,  from  La  Salle,  Illinois,  and  from  Lonis- 
ville,  Kentucky;  and  also  because  the  Valley 
cement  is  probably  fully  equal  to  that  from  other 
places. 

Gypsum,  or  Plaster  of  Paris.  This  is  chemi- 
cally known  as  sulphate  of  lime.  The  heaviest 
beds  of  it  in  the  United  States  are  to  be  found  in 
Webster  county,  near  Fort  Dodge.  They  are  from 
twenty  to  thhty  feet  thick,  and  show  themselves 
on  both  sides  of  the  river,  for  miles ; and  they 
extend  back  each  v/ay  an  unknown  distance. 

On  one  acre,  with  an  average  thickness  of 
twenty  feet,  there  will  be  871,200  cubic  feet ; on 
one  square  mile,  557,568,000  cubic  feet;  and  on 
three  miles  square,  5,018,112,000  cubic  feet  and 
308,031,428  tons. 

It  needs  no  further  remarks  to  show  the  reader 
of  these  pages  the  immense  value  of  these  beds. 
The  idea  that  constant  culture  will  not  impover- 
ish the  rich  soil  of  the  prairie  is  not  to  be  enter- 
tained ; the  value  of  this  article  in  agriculture  and 
for  other  purposes,  then,  is  almost  incalculable. 

The  Dubuque  and  Pacific  Kailroad  is  already 
surveyed  and  under  contract  to  within  a short  dis- 
tance of  these  beds,  and  but  few  years  will  elapse 
before  the  United  States  will  resort  to  her  youngest 
member  to  replenish  her  worn-out  fields,  at  these 
inexhaustible  beds  of  gypsum. 

4 


38 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


Clays.  — Passing  by  the  kinds  from  which  com- 
mon brick  are  made,  and  those  used  for  earthen 
and  stone-ware,  the  coal  measures  abound  in  “ fire- 
clay.” Fire-proof  bricks  are  wrought  of  this  for 
the  use  of  foundries,  furnaces,  and  in  all  cases  and 
places  where  there  is  an  exposure  to  intense  heat. 
In  the  Eastern  States,  it  has  sometimes  been 
necessary  to  import  these  bricks  fi:om  England. 
The  cost  of  them  has  been  as  high  as  ^50  per 
thousand.  It  is  desirable  that  fire-places  and  ovens 
should  be  constructed  of  them ; and  where  fire-clay 
is  plenty,  as  in  the  VaUey,  there  is  no  reason  why 
they  should  not  be.  But  bricks  are  heavy  articles 
of  transport;  and,  until  there  are. railroad  facilities 
of  carriage,  that  one  item  of  cost  will  prevent 
extensive  business  in  this  kind  of  manufacture. 
With  such  facilities,  there  appears  no  good  reason 
why  this  clay  should  not  be  worked.  And,  as  to 
quantity,  the  Valley  can  supply  the  United  States, 
with  Cuba  and  Mexico  annexed  I 

Marble.  — The  best  quarries  we  have  seen  are 
at  Keokuk  and  Iowa  city.  Some  of  the  strata 
there  are  highly  crystalline  — almost  saccharine  — 
and  take  a fine  polish.  St.  Louis  has  already 
resorted  to  Keokuk  for  building  material ; a fact 
which  shows  that  this  marble  is  superior  to  any 
other  equally  accessible  to  that  city.  At  the  same 
locality  are  other  varieties  which  polish  weU. 


IOWA  PIANDBOOK. 


89 


They  are  crystalline,  solid,  but  full  of  fossils,  and 
either  blue  or  of  a bluish-gray  color.  Of  the  lat- 
ter varieties,  enough  can  be  had  at  Bonaparte, 
Bentonsport,  and  Keosauqua.  And,  very  probably, 
when  these  quarries  shall  be  extensively  worked, 
the  white  marble  will  be  found. 

Not  far  from  Keosauqua  there  is  a good  variety 
of  light-gray,  compact,  granular  marble,  of  which 
tombstones  are  wrought  by  Beacon  M.  B.  Root. 
It  effervesces  slightly  with  acids,  and  takes  a polish. 
Iowa  sent  a block  from  this  quarry  to  the  Wash- 
ington Monument.  Ottumwa  may  expect  to  find 
as  good  varieties  of  marble  as  any  place,  because 
the  lower  limestones  have  the  greatest  uplift  there. 
A fine  quality  of  white  marble  has  been  recently 
discovered  in  southern  Iowa. 

Limestone  of  the  best  quality  is  found  in 
various  parts  of  the  State,  so  commonly  and  in 
such  quantities  that  scarcely  any  point  is  without 
access  to  its  quarries. 

Collectively,  the  minerals  of  Iowa  are  of  the 
most  valuable  order.  They  constitute  one  of  the 
many  items  which  render  it  attractive. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


TOURS  THROUGH  IOWA. 

Having  made  frequent  and  extensive  journeys 
through  the  State,  the  author  proposes  under  this 
head  to  give  much  information  pertaining  to  partic- 
ular localities.  The  statistics  of  towns,  etc.,  are 
corrected  up  to  the  latest  date  previous  to  going 
to  press. 

Having  taken  a boat  for  Keokuk,  we  glide  swiftly 
down  the  Mississippi,  passing  by  much  of  inter- 
est, and  arrive  at  Keokuk,  “the  Gate  City”  of 
Iowa.  As  I write,  my  eye  rests  on  the  follov/ing 
from  the  pen  of  a correspondent  of  a Rochester 
paper,  which  expresses  just  what  this  city  is. 

He  writes : 

“ Oif  THE  Mississippi,  March,  1856. 

“ ‘ Away  off  west,’  where  the  twinkling  of  the 
‘star  of  empire’  can  be  seen  by  any  far-reaching 
eye,  perched  upon  the  farther  bluff  of  the  graceful 
Mississippi,  200  miles  above  St.  Louis,  is  one  of 
the  most  attractive  and  progressive  young  cities 
this  wonderful  age  has  reared. 

“ Ten  years  ago  it  was  exclusively  monopolized 
by  a few  boatmen,  whose  occupation  it  was  to 

(40) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


41 


‘lighten’  the  Mississippi  steamboats  over  the 
‘ Kapids’  extending  eleven  miles  above.  Some  five 
years  since,  as  I see  by  the  inaugural  address  of 
its  mayor,  the  first  wholesale  establishment  was 
opened.  There  are  at  this  time  fifty-nine  whole- 
sale houses — three  of  which  sell  each  between 
$200,000  and  $300,000  in  value  of  goods— -some 
of  which  are  ‘teamed’  beyond  the  newly  located 
capital.  Fort  Des  Moines,  200  miles  in  the  interior. 
Several  of  these  are  importers,  there  being  an  U.  S. 
custom-house  there. 

“ There  are  sixty-two  retail  stores  of  all  kinds. 
In  the  entire  town,  which  is  one  mile  north  and 
south  by  one  and  a half  east  and  west,  there  are 
four  hundred  and  fifty  places  of  business.  Among 
these  are  steam  stone-cutting  and  sawing  mills ; 
three  banking  houses ; three  daily  papers  ; fourteen 
slaughtering  and  packing  houses ; one  type  and 
printing-press  wareroom ; six  steam-engine  ma- 
chine-shops and  boiler  manufactories  ; eight  v/agon 
and  carriage  ditto ; and  two  soap  and  candle  ditto. 
Several  of  these  concerns  employ  from  fifty  to 
seventy  hands  each,  v/hiie  one,  not  specified  above, 
has  about  two  hundred. 

“ The  past  season,  every  inch  of  lumber  and 
piece  of  brick  that  could  be  procured  was  placed 
in  buildings ; more  than  sixty  stores  and  manufac- 
turing houses  were  then  erected,  nearly  all  of  a 
costly  and  substantial  character,  and  three  or  four 
stories  in  height. 


42 


fOWA  HANDBOOK. 


“ It  is  estimated  that  five  hundred  additional 
dwelling-houses  will  be  in  request  this  spring. 
The  place  is  lighted  with  gas.  Although  the  health- 
iest town  on  the  Mississippi  river,  the  Legislature 
had  the  assurance  to  locate  the  State  Medical  Col- 
lege there  (probably  from  the  known  fact  that 
M.  D.’s  dread  sickness  awfully  themselves). 

“ Two  railroads  into  the  interior  of  the  State  are 
being  constructed,  and  will  be  in  operation  this 
season,  and  are  greatly  demanded  by  the  wants  of 
trade  for  the  commerce  of  this  beehive  of  a tov/n, 
whose  inhabitants,  as  a class,  are  as  energetic, 
intelligent,  moral,  and  as  independent  in  their 
resources,  as  those  of  any  other  juvenile  of  the  age 
that  can  be  named  in  any  part  of  Uncle  Sam’s 
domain.” 

To  which  I will  add,  further,  the  bluff  upon  which 
it  is  situated  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
high-water  mark,  on  the  Mississippi ; and  at  the 
present  time  contains  a population  of  upwards  of 
ten  thousand.  Its  streets  are  wide  and  regular, 
and  are  nearly  all  graded  and  macdamized.  Main 
street  is  one  hundred  feet  in  width,  and  is  macad- 
amized through  the  city,  upwards  of  one  mile  in 
length. 

The  advantages  accruing  from  position  are 
threefold : 

Firsts  those  derived  from  the  navigation  of  the 
Mississippi.  The  Lower  Rapids,  formed  by  a 
rocky  stratum  in  the  river,  commencing  about  two 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


43 


hundred  yards  above  the  city,  and  running  north- 
ward a distance  of  twelve  miles,  with  a fall  of 
twenty-four  feet,  render  Keokuk  the  head  of  navi- 
gation during  a great  portion  of  the  year,  until 
the  work  of  improving  the  Rapids  is  completed. 
At  present,  in  time  of  low  water,  steamers  are 
obliged  to  unload  their  cargoes  into  “lighters,” 
which  are  towed  up  the  Rapids,  above  which  the 
freight  is  again  loaded  into  boats ; and  thus  the 
city  is  rendered  a wholesale  depot,  and  place  of 
ti’anshipment. 

The  second  point  lies  in  the  trade  of  the  Des 
Moines  Valley,  which  Keokuk  must  inevitably 
command,  situated  but  two  miles  above  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Des  Moines  and  Mississippi  Rivers. 
This  valley,  for  a width  of  sixty  mules  on  either 
side  of  the  Res  Moines  River,  is  unsurpassed,  prob- 
ably, in  the  world,  for  agricultural  wealth.  It 
also  abounds  in  timber,  coal,  gypsum,  and  many 
other  articles  of  trade,  and  these  will  be  transmit- 
ted doAvn  the  Des  Moines  to  its  mouth  at  Keokuk, 
thence  reshipped  to  other  markets.  Of  the  im- 
provement of  the  Des  Moines  we  shall  speak  at 
length  in  another  chapter. 

The  third  source  of  business  advantages,  which 
Keokuk  can  claim,  lies  in  its  railroads.  The  Keo- 
kuk and  Fort  Des  Moines,  the  Keokuk,  Mt.  Pleas- 
ant, and  Muscatine,  and  the  Eastern  railroads,  will 
soon  be  built,  and  wifl  afford  this  city  numerous 
connections  of  the  highest  importance. 


44 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


Its  public  school  is  held  in  the  largest  and  hand- 
somest building  which,  throughout  the  State,  is 
devoted  to  the  cause  of  education.  The  edifice, 
when  fully  completed,  will  have  cost  §13,500. 
This  city  also  contains  the  Iowa  Medical  College, 
a State  institution,  and  a Female  Seminary,  be- 
sides two  other  female  institutes,  and  a number  of 
private  schools.  Six  church  edifices : Old  and  New 
School  Presbyterian,  Baptist,  Methodist,  Episco- 
palian, and  Catholic. 

The  bluff,  on  which  the  city  stands,  contains  the 
finest  of  limestone  for  building  and  other  purposes, 
and  commands  a landscape  view  of  v/ild  and  pic- 
turesque beauty. 

Leaving  Keokuk  by  stage  up  the  Des  Moines 
valley,  through  rich  bottom  lands,  which  are  not 
surpassed  for  fertility  in  the  world,  passing  through 
towns  and  highly  cultivated  fields,  occasionally 
catching  a glimpse  of  the  Des  Moines  and  of  the 
improvements  being  made  in  that  river  by  the 
Des  Moines  Navigation  Company,  we  arrive  at  the 
confines  of  Lee  county.  But,  before  leaving  the 
county,  let  me  speak  of  Fort  Madison,  the  present 
location  of  the  State  Penitentiary.  This  town, 
like  all  western  towns,  is  rapidly  improving ; its 
present  population  is  four  thousand.  Montrose  is 
a town  of  considerable  importance  on  the  river, 
being  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Lower  Rapids. 

Denmark  is  another  of  the  towns  of  Lee  county, 
and  is  one  of  the  oldest  situated  inland  in  the 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


45 


State,  and  is  inhabited  by  a thrifty  class  of  people 
from  the  Eastern  States  and  Ohio.  The  county 
of  Lee,  which  we  are  now  leaving,  is  one  of  the 
most  populous  and  wealthy  in  the  State.  Consid- 
erable attention  has  been  paid,  in  this  county,  to 
wool-growing,  as  well  as  to  raising  fine  cattle  and 
horses.  Passing  through  Boston,  Charleston,  Bona- 
parte, and  Bentonsport,  we  reach  Keosauqua. 
These  are  all  thriving  towns,  and  the  last-named 
are  of  considerable  importance. 

In  Van  Buren  county  we  find  the  same  natural 
features  and  a similar  agricultural  community  as 
in  Lee.  The  principal  town  and  county-seat  of 
this  county  is  Keosauqua,  which  was  settled  as 
early  as  1834.  Population  now  sixteen  hundred, 
— -that  of  the  county,  fourteen  thousand.  One 
newspaper  published  here ; good  public  and  pri- 
vate schools  ; a fine  seminary  is  being  built.  Good 
churches  — good  society.  Among  manufactories 
may  be  mentioned  three  flouring-mills,  two  saw- 
mills, a wooUen  manufactory,  paper-mill,  manufac- 
tory for  farming  implements,  etc.,  etc.  The  lock 
and  dam  being  constructed  here  will  furnish  water- 
power that  cannot  be  surpassed.  This  county  is 
finely  timbered.  Our  informant  states  that  me- 
chanics of  aU  Idnds  are  in  demand  here.  Leav- 
ing Keosauqua,  we  pass  over  the  Des  Moines  Biver 
through  a finely  cultivated  district,  consisting  of 
prairie  and  bottom  land,  which  yield  a rich  reward 
to  the  farmer  for  his  toil.  Entering  Davis  couxiLy, 


46 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


we  find  it  well  watered  by  numerous  small  streams 
running  southwest  into  the  State  of  Missouri, 
thence  to  the  Mississippi.  This  county  is  gener- 
ally settled  by  people  from  Illinois  and  Missouri. 
The  principal  town  and  county-seat  is  Bloomfield. 
Troy,  Drakesville,  Nottingham,  and  Mount  Cal- 
vary are  post-towns  in  this  county. 

Appanoose  county,  next  on  our  route,  contains 
a fine  body  of  land,  is  but  sparsely  settled,  con- 
tains considerable  unentered  land.  County  organ- 
ized in  1851 ; county-seat,  Corydon.  Fine  mill 
privileges  abound  here.  Capitalists  will  do  well 
to  notice  this  county.  Wayne  and  Decatm*  are 
similar,  — the  northern  portion  fine  prairie,  the 
southern  portion  well  timbered  and  finely  wa- 
tered. Coal  has  been  found  along  the  banks  of 
the  streams.  These  counties  offer  great  induce- 
ments to  farmers  and  capitalists,  being  yet  in  their 
early  day  of  settlement ; many  good  farming  lands 
at  a low  price,  and  fine  water-privileges  unim- 
proved. Leon  is  the  county-seat  of  Decatur. 
Ringgold  county  should  have  been  included  in  the 
description  of  the  preceding  counties.  Its  county- 
seat  is  Mountain  Air.  It  contains  within  its  limits 
all  the  elements  that  industiy  and  capital  require 
to  develop  a wealthy,  thriving  agiicultural  and 
manufacturing  district.  Taylor  and  Page  counties 
lie  next  on  our  route.  Finer  timber,  better  soil,  a 
more  delightful  climate,  are  not  found  in  Iowa  than 
this  region  possesses.  When  the  resources  of  these 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


47 


counties  are  developed,  no  richer  or  more  attractive 
section  can  be  found  throughout  the  State.  Immi- 
grants seeking  homes  and  cheap  lands  will  do  well 
to  look  at  these  counties.  Clarinda  is  the  county- 
seat  of  Page.  We  next  enter  Fremont,  which  is 
situated  in  the  southwestern  corner  of  the  State, 
bounded  by  the  Missouri  on  the  west,  traversed 
through  the  whole  length  of  the  county  by  the 
Nishnabotna.  This  county  is  heavily  timbered, 
and  contains  within  its  bounds  a part  of  the  great 
coal  basin.  The  first  settlements  were  made 
June  30,  1851.  The  present  population  is  about 
five  thousand.  Sidney,  the  county-seat,  is  pleas- 
antly situated  west  of  the  Nishnabotna.  There 
are  over  twenty  public  schools  in  the  county  ; each 
of  the  Orthodox  churclies  have  an  organization 
here,  except  the  Episcopalians.  There  is  a card- 
ing-machine,  two  steam  fiouring-mills,  one  steam 
saw-mill,  and  more  needed.  This  is  a growing 
county.  Immigrants  going  into  Western  Iowa 
will  do  well  to  look  at  this  county. 

From  Sidney  we  go  north  up  the  Nishnabotna, 
passing  through  a most  splendid  country,  fitted 
by  nature  to  afford  all  that  civilization  requires. 
Most  of  the  land  in  this  county  is  entered,  but 
can  be  purchased  second-hand  for  a few  dollars 
per  acre.  On  this  route  we  pass  through  the  flour- 
ishing settlements  of  Dawsonberry  and  Tabor. 
The  latter  is  a finely  located  place,  settled  princi- 
pally by  a colony  from  Ohio,  who  took  with  them 


48 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


their  minister  and  teachers,  and  thus  enjoy  most, 
if  not  all,  the  privileges  enjoyed  by  older  settle- 
ments. It  is  the  intention  of  this  colony  to  estab- 
lish at  some  future  day  a college  here. 

Pursuing  our  route  northward  into  Mills  county, 
passing  through  several  embryo  towns,  among  the 
most  attractive  is  the  county-seat,  Glenwood. 
The  name  is  suggestive  of  poetry,  but  no  more 
so  than  the  beautiful  spot  that  bears  it.  Hill  and 
dale,  clumps  of  trees,  clear  springs,  and  sparkling 
brooks,  characterize  this  spot.  This  is  a busy  lit- 
tle town,  with  a population  of  eight  hundred,  con- 
taining three  churches,  two  newspapers,  three  good 
schools,  two  flouring  and  three  saw-mills,  driven 
by  steam.  There  is  a demand  for  teachers,  for 
mechanics,  for  farmers,  for  capitalists,  — for  all  in- 
dustrious, honest  citizens.  Reader,  if  you  want  to 
find  a wide-awake  town,  or  a wide-awake  county, 
right  on  one  of  the  railroads  to  which  Congress  has 
given  a grant  of  land,  go  out  to  Mills  county. 
One  of  these  pleasant  mornings,  before  you  are 
awake  perchance  to  the  fact,  you  will  see  the  iron 
horse  stop  to  drink  at  the  Missouri,  before  it  takes 
a leap  into  Nebraska.  We  leave  this  beautiful 
county,  believing  at  no  distant  day  the  lofty  enter- 
prise of  its  energetic  people  will  unfold  the  rich 
resources  of  this  county  to  the  admiring  gaze  of 
Iowa’s  sons  and  daughters. 

Leaving  Mills,  we  bend  our  course  northwest 
towards  Council  Bluffs,  where  we  arrive  late  at 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


49 


night.  Morning  finds  us  busy  examining  this  city 
and  its  improvements.  Meeting  v/ith  our  good 
friend  Johnson,  of  the  Council  Bluffs  Bugle,  we 
let  him  tell  the  story. 

Council  Bluffs.  — ■ This  place,  formerly  called 
Kanesville,  is  situated  about  three  miles  from  the 
Missouri  Biver,  in  a valley,  surrounded  by  high 
bluffs,  and  contains  a population  of  near  3000  ; is 
incorporated  as  a city,  and  is  fast  improving  in  size 
and  population. 

It  now  contains  ten  stores,  four  hotels,  three 
broker  or  banking  institutions,  any  number  of  men 
calling  themselves  lawyers,  plenty  of  physicians, 
not  half  enough  mechanics  or  laborers,  all  sorts  in 
demand.  Land  Office  for  the  Missouri  Biver  Dis- 
trict located  here,  two  newspapers  published,  but 
not  a good  steam  flouring-mill  in  the  city  or  coun- 
ty. Capital  could  not  be  invested  in  a more  pro- 
fitable undertaldng.  No  coal  banks  have  as  yet 
been  opened  near  the  city,  but  indications  of  coal 
and  fair  specimens  have  been  found  at  short  dis- 
tances. There  is  no  doubt  but  that  an  abundance 
exists  in  this  region.  There  are  good  limestone 
quarries  a few  miles  from  the  city. 

Just  opposite  this  city,  in  Nebraska,  is  situated 
Omaha  City,  the  capital  of  the  Territory.  Either 
city  is  in  sight  of  the  other.  We  have  fine 
coaches  from  the  east,  which  are  performing  daily 
service,  and  always  loaded ; from  the  south,  we 
5 


50 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


have  also  fine,  commodious  coaches,  which  make 
a tri-weekly  service.  The  Western  Stage  Com- 
pany have  a line  of  four-horse  hacks  tri-weekly 
to  Sioux  City ; we  have  - a daily  omnibus  line 
to  Omaha  City,  and  also  another  line  weekly  to 
Fort  Calhoun,  Nebraska,  besides  several  less  impor- 
tant mail  lines  from  this  place,  including  a monthly 
mail  to  Fort  Pierre. 

Our  future  prospects  for  becoming  a great  cen- 
tral mart  of  business,  commerce,  and  enterprise, 
are  undisputed. 

Railroads,  etc.  — There  are  three  several  rail- 
roads surveyed  from  the  Mississippi  River,  on  a line 
westward  to  this  place,  two  of  which  are  already 
being  constructed,  and  are  fast  progressing  toward 
this  place  — one  is  completed,  upon  which  the  cars 
will  soon  be  running,  to  Iowa  City.  It  is  a univer- 
sally conceded  fact,  by  those  who  know,  that  the 
Platte  valley  is  the  only  practicable  route  for  a 
railroad  to  the-  Pacific.  Our  city  being  situated 
on  an  almost  direct  line  westward  from  the  great 
cities  of  the  east,  this  place  will  be  the  great  half- 
v/ay  depot  for  the  immense  trains  that  go  to,  and 
return  from,  the  Pacific.  Our  advantages  in  agri- 
culture and  stock-growing  are  unbounded  — as 
there  are  millions  of  acres  of  the  finest  pasture  and 
meadow-land  lying  to  waste,  that  will  not  for  years 
be  improved,  and  in  the  low  bottoms  we  have  im- 
mense beds  of  rushes,  upon  which  stock  will  win- 
ter and  keep  fat. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


51 


Real  Estate.  — Few  people  abroad  have  any 
idea  of  the  yearly  advance  in  lands  and  city  prop- 
erty in  this  region.  Two  years  ago,  Judge  S.  H. 
Riddle  purchased  a piece  of  land  in  the  bottoms, 
which  has  cost  him,  to  date  of  sale,  $400 ; a few 
days  since,  he  sold  it  for  $18,000,  and  the  great 
Prince  of  railroad  projects,  Farnham,  was  inter- 
ested in  the  purchase.  Mr.  Geer,  living  a.bout  two 
miles  below  town,  entered  land  about  two  years 
ago,  which  he  has  recently  sold  for  $75  per  acre, 
which  cost  him  only  $1.25. 

These  are  not  isolated  cases,  but  what  are  daily 
occurring,  and  prove  the  general  advancement  of 
property  in  this  vicinity. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

WESTERN  IOWA. 

That  large,  fertile  and  beautiful  tract  of  coun- 
try, lying  north  of  the  Missouri  State  line  and 
west  of  the  Des  Moines  River,  is  denominated  and 
known  as  Western  Iowa,  embracing  a large  area 
of  the  most  excellent  land  that  was  ever  trodden  by 
the  foot  of  the  white  man ; the  largest  portion  of 
which  is  still  uninhabited,  and  may  be  pm'chased 
of  the  Government  at  $1.25  per  acre. 

Geography,  etc. — The  face  of  the  country, 
through  this  region,  is  quite  different  from  that  of 
all  the  prairie  regions  east,  being  more  rolling,  hilly, 
and  rough ; there  being  less  sloughs,  mue-holes,  and 
swamps ; streams  of  water  being  more  pure,  clear, 
and  swift,  being  formed  from  thousands  of  springs, 
everywhere  bursting  from  the  hill-sides,  glens,  and 
ravines.  The  altitude  is  considerably  greater  at  this 
place  than  at  the  Mississippi,  on  a due  line  east. 
Near  the  Missouri,  and  all  the  large  streams,  high 
and  precipitous  mountain  bluffs  range  up  and 
down  the  streams,  whilst  the  region  contiguous  is 
generally  very  rough  and  hiUy ; but  gradually,  as  it 
extends  back,  becomes  more  even,  and  finally  just 

(52) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


53 


beatifully  rolling  as  it  ascends  to  higher  grounds 
towards  the  dividing  ridges.  The  valleys  formed 
by  this  roughness  of  surface  are  immensely  rich,  of 
very  easy  cultivation,  and  capable  of  producing 
to  an  enormous  extent;  and,  what  is  a strange 
peeuliarity,  the  crops  are  not  materially  affected  by 
either  flood  or  drought,  the  soil  possessing  the  pe- 
culiarity of  sustaining  and  maturing  crops  through 
severe  and  prolonged  drought.  The  river  bottoms 
are  sometimes  extremely  wide,  beautiful,  and  level; 
in  some  places  the  Missouri  bottom  is  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles  wide,  with  an  occasional  fine,  clear 
lake,  well  stored  with  excellent  fish. 

The  highest  hills  are  covered  with  verdure,  grass, 
or  timber,  and,  if  cultivated,  would  produce  good 
crops  of  various  kinds  of  grain  or  vegetables. 
Although  the  soil  is  light,  and  to  appearance  poor, 
it  is  loose  and  sandy,  and  very  easy  to  cultivate. 
The  soil  on  the  bottoms  and  in  the  valleys  is  a black, 
rich  sandy  loam,  and  often  from  five  to  ten  feet  in. 
depth. 

Throughout  the  whole  region,  fine  rivers,  creeks, 
and  smaller  streams  of  water  occur,  which  afford 
an  abundance  of  power  for  mills  and  machinery ; 
and  the  endless  number  of  springs  and  small  rivu- 
lets furnish  an  abundant  supply  for  farming  uses 
and  stock.  Every  lake  and  stream  of  any  size  is 
alive  with  excellent  fish. 

Climate,  Health,  etc.- — Our  clima.te  is  one  ol 
5* 


54 


IOWA  II  A NDBOOK. 


the  most  delightful  in  nature.  Our  spring  usually 
commences  in  March,  and  by  the  middle  of  April 
the  prairies  are  green,  with  mild,  beautiful  weather. 
In  May,  all  the  face  of  nature  is  covered  with 
flowers,  and  the  foliage  of  the  prairies  bends  before 
the  breeze  like  the  waves  of  an  enchanted  lake, 
whilst  the  whole  atmosphere  is  scented  with  the 
breath  of  flowers.  At  all  seasons  of  the  year,  a 
gentle  breeze  is  fanning  the  prairies,  and  a day  is 
never  so  sultry  but  that  a cooling  breath  comes  to 
moderate  the  melting  temperature.  The  evening 
twilights  are  beautiful,  in  most  seasons  of  the 
year,  continuing  nearly  two  hours  after  sunset. 
Ten  months  in  the  year  our  roads  are  hard,  smooth, 
and  dry.  In  autumn,  the  weather,  with  little  ex- 
ception, is  usually  pleasant  and  fine  until  near 
December.  Winter  brings  us  very  little  snow, 
some  years  not  amounting  to  more  than  six  or 
eight  inches  altogether ; the  weather  through  the 
winter  being  mostly  made  up  of  cool  sunshiny 
days  and  clear  frosty  nights.  There  is  nothing, 
apparently,  to  hinder  this  extensive  region  from 
being  one  of  the  most  healthy  portions  of  the 
United  States.  High,  diy,  salubrious,  and  rolling, 
with  most  excellent  water  and  a bracing  atmos- 
phere, consumption  was  never  known  to  seize  a 
victim  here.  On  the  streams  the  ague  and  fever 
sometimes  intrudes,  with  fevers,  occasionally,  of 
other  types ; but,  as  the  country  becomes  settled  and 
cultivated,  these  will  disappear  and  be  unknown. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


55 


Settlement,  etc. — The  first  white  settlement 
in  this  region  was  made  in  this  county,  in  the  year 
1847,  by  a large  company  of  Mormons.  Having 
been  exiled  from  Illinois,  in  poverty  and  almost 
destitute,  they  opened  a road  from  the  frontier  set- 
tlement, passing  through  a country  then  only  in- 
habited by  savages.  They  planted  small  colonies 
at  places  on  the  route,  severally  named  Garden 
Grove  and  Mount  Pisgah ; pushing  on  to  this  place, 
a large  number,  unable  to  go  farther,  selected  loca- 
tions, stopped  and  commenced  opening  farms,  etc., 
whilst  those  who  were  able  proceeded  on  to  Salt 
Lake  Valley.  In  the  spring  of  1849,  a town  was 
commenced  on  the  site  of  this  city,  called  Kanes- 
ville,  and  two  or  three  stores  erected.  After  this 
year,  the  town  and  population  of  the  county  began 
rapidly  to  increase,  and  now  Pottawattamie  is  the 
most  populous  county  in  Western  Iowa. 

For  several  reasons,  this  county  became  hastily 
settled,  and  the  best  locations  secured  at  an  early 
day — one  of  which  is,  the  excellent  market  here  for 
everything,  and  another,  the  fact  that  it  is  directly 
on  the  great  thoroughfare  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Pacific,  and  the  certainty  of  its  being  the  initial 
point  for  the  great  Pacific  Railroad,  and  a great 
outfitting  point  for  the  thousands  crossing  the 
Plains. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


FROM  COUNCIL  BLUFFS  TO  DEMOINE  CITY. THE 

RAILROAD  ROUTE  DESCRIBED,  ETC. 

After  a pleasant  sojourn  in  the  “ City  of  the 
Bluffs,”  enjoying  the  hospitality  of  J.  E.  Johnson, 
Esq.  (whose  Bugle  has  ever  sounded  its  loudest 
notes  in  proclaiming  the  deserved  praise  of  this 
city),  I bid  farewell  to  him  and  the  “Mad  Mis- 
souri,” and  the  plains  and  bluffs  of  Nebraska,  and 
hie  my  way  homeward,  passing  over  the  usually 
travelled  route  to  Fort  Des  Moines.  This  country  is 
so  fully  described  in  the  preceding  chapter,  that  I 
need  but  mention  the  principal  towns  passed 
through.  As  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  map 
accompanying  this  work,  the  M.  and  M.  Railroad 
from  the  Missouri  passes  northeast,  through  Potta- 
wattamie, into  the  tier  of  counties  next  northward, 
continuing  in  a due  eastern  line  to  F ort  Des  Moines, 
through  the  southern  townships  of  Shelby,  Audu- 
bon, Guthrie,  and  Dallas  counties.  These  counties 
are  each  rapidly  filling  up  with  a substantial  popu- 
lation, occupying  a fine  faruiing  country.  The 
towns  and  settlements  are  new  and  in  their  primi- 
tive days,  and  many  of  them  will  form  a nucleus 

(50) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


57 


for  larger  towns,  when  the  railroad  shall  have  been 
completed.  When  the  iron  horse  thunders  along 
these  valleys  and  fertile  plains,  scaring  the  deer  and 
rabbit  from  their  lurking-places,  waldng  wild  echoes 
among  these  streams  and  wooded  dells,  the  pion- 
eer, catching  a glimpse  of  the  Star  of  Empire,” 
as  ‘‘westward  it  takes  its  course,”  who  has,  per- 
chance, left  poverty  and  oppression  in  some  older 
country,  finds  his  wild  prairie  farm,  which  cost  him 
only  the  trials  of  pre-emption  and  $1.25  per  acre, 
the  site  of  a thrifty  town,  developed  by  the  railroad ; 
or  his  fertile  fields  waving  in  the  summer  breeze, 
ripe  for  a bounteous  harvest,  with  a ready  market 
almost  at  his  door  ; forgets  the  few  years  of  priva- 
tion he  has  been  subjected  to,  and  feels  that  his 
competency  or  wealth  has  been  easily  gained. 

Between  Council  Bluffs  and  the  capital  city, 
the  more  important  towns  passed  through  are 
Lewis,  Somerset,  Winterset,  and  Add,  which  are 
respectively  the  county-seats  of  Cass,  Adair,  Madi- 
son, and  Dallas  counties.  The  country  along  this 
route  is  rich  in  fertility  of  soil,  generally  rolling 
prairie,  and  the  ravines  deeper  than  at  the  same 
distance  from  the  Mississippi.  The  towns  and  vil- 
lages on  this  road  are  all  growing  very  rapidly,  and 
substantial  public  improvements  are  being  made 
at  each  of  the  county-seats. 

Fort  Des  Moines  is  the  county-seat  of  Polk 
county,  and  a city  of  probably  two  thousand  five 
hundred  inhabitants.  The  county  was  opened  for 


58 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


settlement  in  May,  1846,  and  now  contains  a popu- 
lation of  upwards  of  ten  thousand.  The  fort  was 
erected  at  an  early  day,  at  this  place,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Des  Moines  River,  as  a protection  to  our 
frontier  settlements. 

The  garrison  was  removed  in  1846,  when  the 
town  was  laid  out.  Two  newspapers  are  published 
here ; there  are  two  banking  houses,  four  churches, 
one  public  and  two  private  schools.  The  public 
school  building,  recently  erected,  cost  ^6,000. 

The  last  regular  session  of  the  Legislature  lo- 
cated the  capital  of  the  State  at  Des  IMoines.  At  a 
meeting  of  the  commissioners  of  arrangement, 
it  was  decided  to  erect  a new  building,  for  tempo- 
rary purposes,  at  a cost  of  f 40,000,  to  be  raised 
by  private  subscription.  At  the  same  time,  the 
name  of  the  city  of  Fort  Des  Moines  v/as  changed 
to  Demoine  City,  omitting  the  French  silent  let- 
ters, and  plurality  of  words. 

The  following  is  a description  of  the  new  capi- 
tol : “ The  building  is  to  be  one  hundred  feet  long 
by  fifty-six  wide,  and  three  stories  high.  The  first 
floor  is  divided  into  eight  or  ten  committee-rooms, 
and  an  office  and  vaults  for  the  State  treasurer. 
The  second  floor  is  divided  into  rooms  for  the  gov- 
ernor and  other  State  officers,  a supreme  court- 
room and  library-room,  each  of  which  are  twenty- 
one  by  forty-eight  feet.  The  third  floor  is  divided 
into  two  capacious  halls  for  the  house  and  senate ; 
the  former,  forty-eight  by  fifty-eight  feet  in  the 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


59 


clear ; the  latter,  thirty-two  by  fifty-two  feet ; both 
chambers  to  be  provided  with  an  eighteen  foot 
ceiling,  and  the  whole  building  to  be  heated  with 
furnaces.  The  representative  and  senate  halls,  be- 
sides being  able  to  accommodate  one  third  more 
members  than  are  authorized  by  the  Constitution, 
will  also  be  supplied  with  large  and  convenient 
lobbies.” 

The  capitol  will  be  built  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  that  portion  of  the  city  which  is  built  on  the 
east  side  having  donated  ten  acres  of  ground  to 
the  State,  for  that  purpose.  This  city  has  re- 
ceived a great  impetus  since  the  location  of  the 
capital  here.  It  is  estimated  that  it  has  increased 
one  half  within  the  last  year.  When  it  is  consid- 
ered that  in  one  year,  at  the  farthest,  the  raifioad 
from  Iowa  City  will  be  completed  as  far  as  this 
point,  and  this  remain  the  terminus,  for,  perhaps, 
another  year;  and,  furthermore,  that  the  Des  Moines 
River  improvement  is  contracted  to  be  completed 
in  January,  1858,  connecting  this  city  with  Keokuk, 
by  a line  of  boats  - that  will  run,  through  the  time 
of  navigation,  without  interruption ; I say,  when 
these  improvements  are  completed,  we  may  look 
to  Demoihe  City  as  the  largest  central  inland  town 
in  the  State.  The  land  office,  for  the  present,  is 
closed  here,  to  be  opened  when  the  railroads  re- 
ceive their  lands. 

Polk  county,  as  weU  as  those  adjoining  and 
tliose  farther  north  and  west,  is  high  rolling  prairie, 


60 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


with  a due  proportion  of  timber  ; and  is  well  wa- 
tered with  rivers  and  creeks,  the  banks  of  which 
abound  in  coal,  lime,  sandstone,  and  gypsum,  in 
great  quantities. 

Leaving  Polk  county,  we  pass  to  Newton,  the 
county-seat  of  Jasper.  This  county,  with  Powe- 
shiek and  Iowa,  forms  an  excellent  body  of  farming 
land — high  rolling  prairie,  watered  by  numerous 
small  streams  flowing  southeast  to  ’the  Missis- 
sippi. Coal  of  a good  quality  has  been  found  in 
each  of  these  counties.  A thriving  community  of 
farmers  occupy  the  land,  and  are  rapidly  improving 
the  rich  soil,  so  recently  of  the  public  domain. 
The  towns  and  villages  are  all  growing  up  as  only 
western  towns  know  how  to,  and  the  prospect  of  a 
railroad  connecting  them  with  the  east  gives  all 
these  towns  a strong  impetus.  Among  the  most 
important  are,  Newton,  in  Jasper;  Grinnell  and 
Montezuma,  in  Ppweshiek ; Marengo  and  Millers- 
burg,  in  Iowa.  Newton  contains  a population  of 
about  one  thousand  souls ; has  eight  dry  goods 
stores,  and  others  in  proportion,  three  churches, 
three  high  schools,  a splendid  hotel  in  prospect, 
and  any  quantity  of  buildings  under  way.  It  is 
the  county-seat  of  Jasper. 

Grinnell,  in  Poweshiek,  now  two  years  of  age, 
is  a thriving  town,  settled  by  a colony  from 
New  York.  They  have  the  “People’s  College” 
here,  an  institution  of  learning  founded  by  this 
colony.  Their  public  school  building  cost  $6,000. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


61 


Montezuma,  the  county-seat  of  this  county,  con- 
tains a population  of  six  hundred,  with  the  usual 
number  of  lawyers  and  doctors.  Mechanics  and 
manufacturers  are  wanted.  Lands  are  selling  in  this 
county  from  three  to  five  and  up  as  high  as  fifty 
dollars  per  acre,  according  to  location. 

Marengo,  the  county-seat  of  Iowa,  contains  a 
population  of  five  hundred.  A good  bridge  has 
been  constructed  here  over  the  Iowa  river,  which 
adds  much  to  the  facilities  for  doing  business  in 
this  place. 


CHAPTER  X. 


TRIP  TO  THE  RIVER. IOWA  CITY. HER  BUSINESS 

STATISTICS. 

Iowa  City,  the  county-seat  of  Johnson  county, 
and  the  former  seat  of  government  of  the  State  of 
Iowa,  is  fifty-five  miles  from  Davenport,  by  the 
Mississippi  and  Missouri  Railroad,  and  is  the  most 
western  city  in  railroad  connection  with  the  east. 

The  town  was  laid  out  in  1839.  In  1840  the 
number  of  inhabitants  was  520 ; in  1845,  1,000 ; 
in  1850,  1,585  ; in  1855,  5,000  ; and  now  its  popu- 
lation is  said  to  be  about  5,500.  The  population 
of  Johnson  county  in  1840  numbered  1,491;  in 
1850,  4,492 ; and  in  1854,  8,467. 

At  the  last  session  of  the  Legislature,  a bill  was 
passed,  removing  the  seat  of  government  to  Fort 
Des  Moines,  in  Polk  county,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  farther  west. 

The  former  State  House  is  not  entirely  finished, 
but  is  an  elegant  edifice  of  stone ; capacious,  well 
adapted  to  legislative  and  other  public  piu'poses, 
and  an  ornament  to  the  city.  This  building,  with 
its  extensive  grounds,  is  a grant  to  the  State  uni- 
versity, and  will  be  appropriated  to  its  use  imme- 

(62) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


63 


diately  upon  the  removal  of  the  State  offices  and 
legislative  sessions. 

The  general  government  gave  this  University  a 
grant  of  seventy-two  sections  of  land,  which  have 
mostly  been  sold,  — the  funds  to  be  appropriated 
to  the  support  of  the  school.  This  institution  is 
well  provided  with  competent  professors.  The 
number  of  students  is  at  present  150.  The  first 
session  was  opened  on  the  first  Monday  of  March, 
1855. 

Besides  this  infant  institution,  strong  in  resources 
and  promises,  there  is  the  Female  Collegiate  Insti- 
tute, in  successful  operation.  There  is,  also,  the 
City  Union  School,  with  s.  principal  and  three 
assistants,  besides  numerous  private  schools,  all 
thriving  finely.  There  is  no  town  in  the  State  bet- 
ter supplied  with  educational  advantages,  consider- 
ing its  population. 

There  are  seven  churches : two  Presbyterian,  one 
Methodist  Episcopal,  one  Universalist,  one  Episco- 
palian, one  Baptist,  one  Catholic.  Ail  have  good 
stone  and  brick  buildings.  The  Episcopal  church 
is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  State. 

The  amount  of  goods  received  here  since  Jan- 
uary 1,  1856  (the  time  the  railroad  was  completed 
to  this  point),  is  immense.  Here  are  about  sixty 
places  of  business,  including  dry  goods,  groceries, 
and  hardware.  The  aggregate  sales  of  these  estab- 
lishments vary  from  $25,000  to  $100,000  annually. 
Here  are  five  lumber-yards,  making  an  aggregate 


64 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


sale  of  760,000  feet  of  lumber  and  450,000  shingles 
for  the  four  months  ending  April,  1856.  Here  are 
three  banking  establishments  — Cook,  Sargent  & 
Downey ; J.  H.  Gower,  Bros.  & Co. ; and  Culbert- 
son & Reno,  — all  prompt  business  men,  possess- 
ing an  energy  and  perseverance  worthy  their  young 
and  prosperous  city.  The  U.  S.  Land  Office,  for- 
merly at  this  place,  has  been  removed  to  Demoine 
City.  Of  the  manufactories  in  this  city  some  men- 
tion should  be  made;  and,  though  still  in  their 
infancy,  some  of  them  are  far  superior  to  those  in 
older  States.  Of  this  class  are  : Morrison’s  steam 
flouring-mill,  45  by  60  feet,  of  stone,  grinding  forty 
barrels  of  flour  per  day;  Love,  Gordon  & Co.’s 
steam  plough  factory,  manufacturing  nine  hun- 
dred ploughs  yearly ; Finkbine  & Lovelace’s  steam 
sash,  door,  and  blind  factory,  with  tenoning, 
planing,  and  mortising  machines,  manufacturing 
$20,000  worth  per  annum;  an  iron  foundry, 
owned  by  Hart  & Jones,  manufacturing  machinery, 
mill-gearing,  etc.  Besides  these,  are  wagon-mak- 
ers, blacksmiths,  cabinet-makers,  etc.,  in  proportion. 
There  are  seven  hotels  in  this  place,  all  crowded, 
and  all,  they  say,  ‘‘  have  more  business  than  they 
want.”  The  traveller  is  generally  at  a loss  to  know 
where  to  stop.  I have  always  been  well  treated  at 
the  “ Park  House.”  The  others  may  be  as  good, 
or  better. 

The  tourist  from  the  East  may,  perhaps,  be  inter- 
ested in  the  market  prices  of  Iowa.  In  this  city, 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


65 


wood  sells  at  $3.50  per  cord ; coal  is  about  $7  per 
ton.  Wheat  is  sold  here  at  present  at  from  75  to 
85  cents  per  bushel. 

Farms,  improved,  near  the  city,  sell  for  $20  to 
$30  per  acre — -a  few  miles  back,  for  $10  to  $15 
an  acre.  Real  estate  in  this  city  ranges,  for  first 
class  city  property,  from  $50  to  $1.25  per  foot  front. 
Residence  lots  may  be  had  for  from  $150  to  $600. 

One  daily  and  two  weekly  newspapers  are  pub- 
lished here,  ably  conducted  and  well  sustained. 

The  county  of  Johnson  has  many  thriving  towns 
within  its  borders,  is  well  watered,  and  has  a fak 
proportion  of  timber  for  a prairie  county.  The 
land  is  well  adapted  to  all  the  wants  of  the  agri- 
culturist; is  thickly  settled,  by  as  thrifty,  intelli- 
gent, and  energetic  a population  as  can  be  found 
anywhere.  The  railroad  brings  everything  directly 
into  market,  and  farmers  and  manufacturers  can- 
not complain,  but  daily  see  their  labors  rewarded. 

Passing  out  of  Johnson  county,  on  the  cars,  we 
cross  the  corner  of  Cedar,  then  run  into  Muscatine 
county.  All  along  this  route,  unmistakable  evi- 
dence of  the  value  of  a rahroad  to  inland  towns 
is  seen.  Busy  little  villages  spring  up  at  each 
station,  and  the  whole  district  quickly  feels  the 
throbbing  pulsation  of  this  great  artery  of  com- 
merce. 

At  Wilton,  a branch  road  from  Muscatine  taps 
the  main  trunk,  and  gives  that  place  a new  impe- 
tus. Leaving  Muscatine  county,  our  iron  steed 
6* 


66 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


dashes  on  over  the  beautiful  prairies  and  swelling 
slopes  of  Scott  county,  stopping  on  his  way  at 
Durant,  Fulton,  and  Walcott,  each  young,  growing 
towns,  children  of  the  Railroad.  With  a fierce 
snort  from  his  flowing  nostrils,  he  emerges  from  the 
deep  cut  in  the  bluff,  and  we  find  ourselves  in  one 
of  Iowa’s  most  beautiful  cities,  Davenport. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


DAVENPORT  AND  HER  SURROUNDINGS.  CHURCHES, 
SCHOOLS,  AND  MANUFACTORIES.  — BUSINESS  STA- 
TISTICS.  MISSISSIPPI  AND  MISSOURI  RAILROAD.-— 

RAILROAD  BRIDGES. 

Once  again  our  eye  rests  on  the  bosom  of  the 
majestic  Mississippi.  Where  now  stands  onr  iron 
horse,  Gen.  Scott  had  his  marquee,  twenty-three 
years  ago,  while  making  a treaty  with  the  Sac  and 
Fox  Indians,  for  their  lands  in  Iowa.  The  Sac 
chief  asked  as  a condition  that  Mrs.  Le  Claire,  the 
wife  of  Antoine  Le  Claire  (for  many  years  an 
interpreter  between  the  Indians  and  the  United 
States  agents),  should  receive  from  his  hands  a 
mile  square  of  land,  at  this  place,  and  that  her 
husband  should  build  his  house  on  this  spot,  which 
he  did  during  the  year.  Here  they  lived  until  the 
year  1854,  when  he  (Antoine  Le  Claire)  sold  ten 
acres  for  depot  grounds  to  the  Mississippi  and 
Missouri  railroad  company,  including  his  house 
and  grounds.  Le  Claire’s  old  homestead  house  is 
now  used  as  the  passenger  depot ! 

Besides  the  gift  of  one  mile  square  of  land,  now 
covered  with  the  massive  warehouses  and  hand- 

(67) 


68 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


some  stores  of  Davenport  city,  the  Sac  chiefs  gave 
Antoine  Le  Claire  a township  of  land  at  the  head 
of  the  Upper  Rapids,  where  now  is  the  town  of 
Le  Claire,  with  a population  of  1,500.  These 
tracts  of  land  have,  as  the  “ Star  of  Empii’e  west- 
ward took  its  course,”  so  increased  in  value,  that 
Antonie  Le  Clare  to-day  is  one  of  the  richest  men 
in  Iowa.  His  public  spirit  and  generosity  keep 
pace  with  his  ample  means,  and  Davenport  has 
always  found  in  Le  Claire  a public  benefactor. 
Her  public  buildings,  her  libraries,  and  her  streets 
illustrate  his  munificence. 

Much  has  been  justly  said  of  the  natural  beauty 
of  the  scenery  at  and  about  Davenport.  Opposite, 
on  the  Illinois  shore,  is  the  city  of  Rock  Island, 
with  a background  of  gently  rounded  bluffs. 
Between  and  above  is  the  beautiful  island.  Rock 
Island,  connected  with  either  shore  by  the  railroad 
bridge  that  spans  the  “ Father  of  Waters,”  hence 
giving  uninterrupted  railroad  connection  between 
the  Eastern  States  and  Iowa.  At  the  level  of  the 
island,  which  is  three  miles  in  length,  is  Moline  on 
the  Illinois  shore  and  East  Davenport  on  the  Iowa. 
These  are  pleasant  manufacturing  villages,  whose 
busy  hum  keeps  pace  with  the  thrift  on  every 
hand. 

The  city  of  Davenport  is  built  on  the  broad 
bottom  lands  that  here,  in  some  places,  are  a mile 
in  width  ; the  residences  extending  up  the  beauti- 
ful bluffs,  and  over  the  highest  points,  out  into  the 
prairie  beyond. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


69 


•Perhaps  nowhere  in  the  West  can  be  found  a 
more  varied  and  extensive  view  than  is  gained 
from  these  bluffs,  that  rise  two  or  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  upon  which  the  business  por- 
tion of  the  city  is  built.  Many  persons  of  wealth, 
attracted  thither  by  the  magnificent  scenery,  have 
built  tasteful  and  even  splendid  residences,  com- 
manding a prospect  that  is  seldom  surpassed. 

Davenport,  being  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
Mississippi  and  Missouri  railroad,  has  an  extensive 
trade  with  the  interior  country ; and,  as  the  rail- 
road progresses  w^estward,  this  trade  will  undoubt- 
edly increase  in  a proportionate  degree.  This 
trade  has  originated  and  supported  several  large 
forwarding  houses,  the  business  of  which  annually 
amounts  to  an  immense  sum,  in  the  aggregate 
about  ^356,000.  An  extensive  business  is  done 
here  in  grain.  Upwards  of  454,000  bushels  of 
wheat  were  delivered  dmang  the  last  year,  com- 
mencing with  the  fall  of  1855. 

The  manufactures  in  Davenport  will  compare 
favorably  with  those  of  any  other  city  of  the  same 
age  in  the  West  or  Northwest.  In  truth,  the  whole 
of  this  region  of  country,  including  Davenport, 
East  and  Upper  Davenport,  Rock  Island,  Moline, 
and  Camden,  is  undoubtedly  destined  to  be  a large 
manufacturing  centre  for  the  country  west.  With 
every  facility  which  an  abundance  of  coal,  water 
power,  and  railroad  connection  with  the  east  and 
the  west  can  supply,  what  is  there  to  prevent  such 
a rps>i1t? 


70 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


The  following  list  gives  the  principal  manufacto- 
ries : Two  iron  foundries ; two  steam-boiler  man- 

ufactories; two  for  the  manufacture  of  agricul- 
tural implements ; two  for  carriages ; six  saw-mills, 
with  which  are  connected  planing-mills,  lath- 
machines,  shingle-machines,  sash  and  blind  man- 
ufactories ; four  flouring-mills ; three  furniture 
factories ; one  for  ploughs  ; seven  v/agon  shops  ; 
one  soap  factory;  one  rope  factory;  and  some 
eighteen  brick-yards.  The  capital  invested  in 
manufacturing  is  estimated  at  $2,000,000. 

A home  market  is  found  for  everything  manu- 
factured here  except  flour,  of  which  large  quantities 
are  exported. 

This  city  is  rapidly  throwing  off  the  cheap,  tem- 
porary appearance  common  to  western  towns  in 
their  early  growth,  and  her  citizens  are  erecting 
fine  blocks  of  buildings,  that  cost  from  $50,000  to 
$60,000.  Real  estate,  in  desirable  locations,  com- 
mands $200  per  foot  front. 

This  city  sustains  five  banking-chouses,  in  which 
business  Messrs.  Cook  and  Sargent  are  the  pion- 
eers. The  Iowa  College  is  located  here,  also  a 
Ladies’  CoUege,  and  several  private  and  public 
schools  that  would  do  honor  to  any  city.  Here 
are  twelve  churches  organized,  most  of  them  occu- 
pying handsome  buildings  as  places  of  wmrsliip. 
The  hotels  are  large,  and  offer  to  the  traveller  a 
home  at  once  luxmious  and  satisfactory.  Daven- 
port, as  a river  point,  has  for  several  years  been 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


71 


one  of  the  most  important  in  Iowa.  The  Mis- 
sissippi and  Missouri  Railroad  and  the  Mississippi 
Bridge  have  rendered  it  still  more  important.  The 
first  locomotive  in  Iowa  crossed  the  Mississippi 
here,  and  the  first  railroad  constructed  was  at  this 
point,  connecting  it  with  Iowa  City.  The  crowds 
that  have  passed  through  Davenport,  and  the 
amount  of  freight  landed  here  for  the  interior, 
have  been  enormous ; and,  if  the  capacity  of  the 
road  was  double  that  of  any  other  in  the  West, 
it  would  have  enough  to  do ! 

The  bridge  was  unfortunate.  One  month  after 
its  completion  it  was  burned  by  a steamboat  get- 
ting on  fire  by  catching  in  the  trestle-work,  setting 
the  boat  on  fire,  and  firing  the  bridge  also.  The 
boat  was  totally  destroyed,  and  the  damage  done 
the  bridge  amounted  to  $50,000.  The  bridge  is 
now  rebuilt,  and  cars  are  passing  daily  over  the 
swift  flood  of  the  Mississippi’s  waters. 

Bidding  adieu  to  the  Bridge  City,  we  glide 
down  the  river,  among  numerous  willow-skirted 
islands  and  beautifully  wooded  shores,  to  Mus- 
catine. 


CHAPTER  XIT. 


TRIP  FROM  MUSCATINE  TO  OSCALOOSA. BUSINESS 

STATISTICS  OF  MUSCATINE. HER  RAILROAD  CON- 
NECTIONS.   WAPELLO,  COLUMBUS  CITY,  WASH- 

INGTON, LANCASTER,  SIGOURNEY,  OSCALOOSA,  ED- 
DYVILLE,  OTTUMWA,  AND  FAIRFIELD,  DESCRIBED, 
AND  BUSINESS  STATISTICS  GIVEN. 

Muscatine,  the  county-seat  of  Muscatine  coun- 
ty, is  situated  on  the  Iowa  side  of  the  Mississippi, 
at  the  apex  of  what  has  been  termed  “ the  great 
bend.”  Its  site,  though  in  some  places  rough  and 
broken,  is  in  many  respects  superior  for  a city  ; 
and,  from  the  bluffs  that  rise  up  from  the  town, 
there  is  one  of  the  most  pleasing  prospects  to  be 
found  in  the  West. 

The  landing  on  the  river  is  considered  by  boat- 
men to  be  good,  and  there  is  ample  room  for  a very 
fine  levee  to  be  built,  which  a small  outlay  will  ac- 
complish. A ferry  phes  regidarly  across  the  river 
to  Illinois,  from  which  large  numbers  of  teams 
cross  to  Iowa  daily  during  the  season  of  emigra- 
tion from  the  East  to  the  West. 

The  present  population  is  nine  thousand. 
Some  idea  of  the  business  transacted  here  can  be 

(72) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


73 


obtained  from  the  following  statistics.  There 
are  tliree  steam  flonring-mills,  capital  invested, 
^148,000 ; two  steam  saw-mills,  manufacturing  at 
the  rate  of  130,000  feet  per  annum,  35,500  feet  of 
shingles,  and  16,500  lath ; two  planing-mills  and  fur- 
niture and  bedstead  factories  ; two  sash,  door,  and 
blind  factories ; one  iron  foundry  and  steam-engine 
manufactory;  one  plough  factory;  one  barrel  fac- 
tory ; one  distillery ; two  breweries ; six  wagon 
shops;  soap  and  candle  factory;  two  large  pork- 
packing houses,  doing  a heavy  business.  A large 
quantity  of  beef  was  packed  here  the  last  season. 
A new  jail,  costing  ^12,000,  is  being  built.  The 
amount  of  lumber  sold  during  the  last  year  was 
over  one  million  feet. 

There  are  several  dry  goods  and  grocery  es- 
tablishments whose  sales  per  annum  are  from 
^25,000  to  $150,000.  Among  the  several  for- 
warding and  commission  houses,  the  highest 
amount  collected  by  any  one  was  $150,000  per 
annum. 

Since  the  opening  of  the  Muscatine  branch  of 
the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  Railroad,  business 
has  increased  and  is  still  increasing  at  this  point. 

The  Oscaloosa  and  Muscatine  Road  will  be 
completed  during  the  autumn  of  ’56. 

“ With  railroads  completed,  projected,  and  in  con- 
templation, the  people  have  high  expectations  of 
Muscatine  being  an  important  centre  for  much  of 
the  future  trade  of  central  Iowa ; and,  if  enterprise 
7 


74 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


in  her  merchants  and  the  public  spirit  displayed 
by  her  capitalists  are  an  indication  of  future  pros- 
perity, we  should  judge  that  they  will  not  be  dis- 
appointed.” 

There  are  two  public  or  district  schools,  weU  sup- 
ported and  attended.  There  are  sixteen  churches 
and  religious  societies  here.  Besides  these,  there 
are  the  Muscatine  County  Bible  Society  and  the 
Young  Men’s  Christian  Association,  both  of  which 
are  in  a flourishing  condition. 

Beal  estate  in  Muscatine  is  rapidly  on  the  in- 
crease. First  class  business  property  brings  from 
$75  to  $150  per  foot  front  Besidence  lots,  $15 
to  $20  per  foot.  Farms  in  the  county  may  be  had 
at  $20  to  $25  per  acre  for  improved,  and  $9  to 
$15  for  unimproved. 

Leaving  the  city,  on  the  road  to  Oscaloosa,  we 
pass  through  a weU-cultivated  country,  finely  tim- 
bered and  well  watered.  Entering  Louisa  county, 
we  are  on  the  original  Keokuk  Beserve,  purchased 
by  the  Government  in  1836.  Here  the  Sac  and 
Fox  Indians  lived,  until  after  the  first  or  Black 
Hawk  purchase  of  1832.  As  we  pass  over  this 
•beautiful  section,  with  its  groves  of  timber  and 
clear  running  streams,  we  wonder  not  that  the  red 
men  clung  to  their  hunting-grounds.  The  Iowa 
Biver  passes  diagonally  through  the  county  to  its 
confluence  with  the  Mississippi.  Its  banks  are 
heavily  timbered,  and  the  settler  finds  all  his  high- 
est hopes  anticipated  in  the  natoal  resources  of 
this  county. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


75 


Diverging  from  the  general  route,  we  visit  Flor- 
ence, which  is  a small  town,  but  lives  in  history  as 
being  formerly  the  residence  of  Black  Hawk,  until 
the  Indian  hostilities  of  1832.  Here  repose  the 
bones  of  his  ancestors,  while  the  illustrious  chief 

sleeps  a sleep  that  knows  no  waldng  ” in  a dis- 
tant county.  Wapello,  the  county-seat,  is  pleas- 
antly situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Iowa,  on  the  site 
of  Wapello’s  village.  WapeUo  was  a Fox  chief, 
who,  with  his  tribe,  formerly  resided  here.  The 
population  of  this  place  is  now  about  1,400 ; that 
of  the  county  upwards  of  12,000.  Passing  over 
a finely  cultivated  country,  we  reach  Columbus 
City.  It  is  anticipated  this  place  will  at  some 
future  day  become  one  of  considerable  impor- 
tance — it  being  the  junction  of  the  Keokuk  and 
Muscatine  and  the  Oscaloosa  and  Muscatine 
Railroads.  A newspaper  is  published  here.  A 
superior  quality  of  marble  has  recently  been  dis- 
covered in  this  county,  susceptible  of  the  highest 
polish. 

Leaving  Louisa  county,  we  pass  into  Wash- 
ington. Our  way  takes  us  now  through  smiling 
prairies,  dotted  thick  with  pleasant  farm-houses. 
Washington  being  entirely  inland,  the  interests  of 
the  people  are  with  her  agricultural  progress  and 
her  manufactories.  The  county  contains  a fine 
body  of  farming  land,  well  watered,  and  about  the 
usual  amount  of  timber  for  a prairie  county.  In 
the  southern  part  of  the  county  a fine  bed  of 


76 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


coal  has  been  recently  opened.  Washington,  the 
county-seat,  is  a thriving  place,  containing  about 
1300  inhabitants.  The  Washington  County  Press 
is  published  here,  and  esteemed  one  of  the  best 
papers  in  the  State.  Here  is  a large  woolen  fac- 
tory, a carding-machine  and  fulling-mill,  a steam 
flouring-miU,  saw-mill,  and  steam-boiler  manufac- 
tory; and  numerous  other  manufactories  are  in  con- 
templation. Washington  College  is  located  here; 
besides  this,  there  are  one  public  and  two  select 
schools. 

We  extract  from  the  county  assessor’s  returns 
for  1856  the  following  items  : No.  of  houses  3902, 
value  $266,601;  cattle  11,956,  value  $217,366; 
sheep  6155,  value  $7,068;  hogs  20,339,  value  $41,- 
244;  vehicles  1552,  value  $68,939;  polls  2224. 
Total  amount  of  assessment,  Washington  county, 
for  1856,  $3,930,848. 

Leaving  this  county  on  the  line  of  the  raUroad, 
we  enter  Keokuk.  As  a body  of  land  Keokuk 
is  similar  to  Washington,  her  agricultural  popula- 
tion and  resources  alike;  it  is  better  timbered. 
Lancaster  is  the  county-seat,  and  a thriving  place. 
To  the  people  of  Keokuk  county,  it  is  what 
Washington  is  to  the  people  of  Washington 
county.  Sigourney  is  a few  miles  north  and  west 
of  Lancaster.  A new  paper  has  recently  been 
started  there,  called  Life  in  the  West. 

Continuing  our  journey  on  the  line  of  the  rail- 
road westward,  we  enter  Mahaska  county,  passing 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


77 


rapidly  over  the  fine  rolling  prairie,  then  among  the 
trees  that  skirt  the  Skunk,  over  the  clear  streams, 
then  through  another  belt  of  timber,  then  over  the 
swelling  prairies  again ; no  longer  the  wild  prairie^ 
but  now  converted  into  smiling  fields,  waving  their 
rich  harvests  in  the  prairie  breeze.  Mahaska 
county  is  conceded  to  be  one  of  the  best,  if  not  the 
best,  cultivated  county  in  the  State.  Splendid 
horses,  some  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  graze  leis- 
urely in  the  fields.  Mammoth  oxen  crop  the  rich 
herbage,  sleek  cows  and  white  sheep  sport  in  the 
shade  of  the  giwes,  while  the  large,  capacious  farm- 
houses, beautiful  grounds,  and  spreading  orchards, 
present  a scene  of  luxury  that  few  of  the  older 
States  know. 

Oscaloosa,  the  county-seat  of  Mahaska,  is  situ- 
ated in  the  centre  of  the  county,  six  miles  from  the 
Des  Moines  River.  This  town  is  pleasantly  built, 
the  inhabitants  displaying  much  taste  in  their 
public  as  well  as  their  private  buildings.  The 
present  population  is  estimated  to  be  3000.  This 
is  one  of  the  largest  interior  towns  in  the  State,  is 
well  supplied  with  flouring-m_ills,  saw-mills,  and 
machine-shops.  Four  hotels  here  are  all  doing  a 
large  business,  as  many  pass  through  here  on  their 
way  to  western  Iowa  and  Nebraska.  The  Western 
Stage  Company  have  a depot  here,  and  run  a 
regular  line  of  stages  from  this  city  through  to 
Council  Bluffs.  Real  estate  commands  a high 
price  here,  which  is  evidence  of  the  prosperity  of 


78 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


the  town.  Last  spring  a lot,  without  buildings  on 
it,  sold  for  $3,000.  A branch  of  the  State  Normal 
School  is  located  here,  and  is  at  present  in  suc- 
cessful operation.  This  city,  by  its  railroad  con- 
nections in  prospective,  is  but  1103  miles  from  the 
city  of  New  York.  The  county  contains  all  the 
elements  of  wealth  within  its  borders.  The  Des 
Moines  valley  is  rich  in  its  fertile  soil,  beds  of  coal, 
gypsum,  and  stone,  offering  every  inducement  capi- 
talists and  agriculturists  could  seek. 

- The  following  is  the  valuation  of  land  in  this 
county,  according  to  the  last  assessment : number  of 
acres  290,097,  value  $1,628,212.  The  valuation  of 
horses  is  $206,551 ; cattle  $154,303 ; carriages  and 
vehicles,  1,585  in  number,  $62,997  ; moneys  and 
credits  valued  at  $185,253. 

The  total  valuation  of  taxable  property  in  Ma- 
haska county  is  estimated  at  $2,702,994. 

Leaving  Oscaloosa,  favorably  impressed  with  its 
advantageous  position,  its  beauty  and  wealth,  and 
the  warm  hospitality  of  the  people,  I proceed  to 
EddyviUe.  This  road  leads  through  a most  beau- 
tiful section  of  country,  not  unlike  that  passed 
through  in  entering  Oscaloosa.  I am  particularly 
impressed  with  the  intelligence  and  nobleness  of 
the  farmers  in  this  vicinity. 

EddyviUe  is  situated  on  the  Des  Moines  river,  in 
the  northwest  corner  of  Wapello  county.  This  is 
a place  of  considerable  trade,  and  is  rapidly  in- 
creasing in  population.  Churches,  schools,  and 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


79 


newspapers  are  all  well  sustained,  by  an  intelligent 
and  industrious  people.  Population  1050. 

Wapello  county  was  opened  to  settlement  in 
May,  1843,  and  organized  April,  1844,  and  is 
claimed  by  residents  to  be,  in  point  of  fertility, 
second  to  none  in  the  State.  The  Des  Moines 
River  passes  diagonally  through  the  county.  The 
water-power,  as  furnished  by  that  river  and  Cedar 
Creek,  is  abundant,  the  banks  of  the  streams  also 
being  rich  in  limestone  of  the  best  quality  and  ex» 
cellent  sand,  which,  together  with  the  extensive 
tracts  of  timber,  render  it  one  of  the  most  desirable 
counties  in  the  interior  of  the  State. 

The  next  point  of  importance  reached  is  Ot- 
tamwa,  the  county-seat,  situated  at  what  are 
called  the  Appanoose  Rapids,  on  the  Des  Moines 
River,  distant  twenty-five  miles  from  Fairfield,  and 
seven  from  Agency  City  (the  old  Sac  and  Fox 
Agency).  By  recent  surveys  it  has  been  ascer- 
tained that  the  amount  of  water  passing  over  the 
Appanoose  Rapids,  per  minute,  is  42,000  cubic  feet ; 
a sufficient  quantity  to  fill  a lock  42  feet  wide  and 
150  feet  long ; being  enough  to  run  28  pair  of  burrs, 
4 feet  in  diameter,  under  a head  of  6 feet  water. 
There  is  a fall  of  4 feet  at  these  Rapids,  in  one 
mile  ; and  a dam,  5 feet  high,  would  give  6 feet  10 
inches  rise  and  fall.  Some  large  mills  and  manu- 
factories have  been  erected  here ; and,  when  her 
water  power  is  fully  developed,  she  will  become 


80 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


one  of  the  most  important  manufacturing  towns  in 
the  State.  The  population  of  Ottumwa  is  900. 

Some  seven  miles  further,  we  reach  Agency  City, 
so  called  from  having  been  formerly  the  Sac  and 
Fox  Indian  Agency.  This  town  is  beautifully 
located,  and  in  a very  fertile  section  of  country. 
From  this  place  to  Fairfield,  we  pass  over  a coun- 
try under  good  cultivation,  and  thickly  settled. 
The  traveller,  in  crossing  those  beautiful  plains 
now  dotted  with  the  dwellings  and  improve- 
ments of  the  “ palefaces,”  can  hardly  realize  how 
recently  the  Indian  here  revelled  in  the  pleasures 
of  his  camp  or  wigwam,  and  that  here,  but  a few 
moons  ago,  he  hunted  the  buffalo,  ellv,  and  deer, 
where  now  the  thriving  herds  of  the  honest  farmer 
graze  in  peaceful  quietude ! We  all  acknowledge 
this  section  of  country  to  be  unsurpassed  in  point 
of  beauty  and  fertility ; yet  we  thoughtlessly  cen- 
sure the  original  owners  of  the  soil,  because  they 
reluctantly  gave  up  their  homes  and  hunting- 
grounds  to  the  intruding  Anglo-Saxon. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


FAIRFIELD  TO  BURLINGTON.  - FAIRFIELD,  MOUNT 

PLEASANT,  AND  BURLINGTON. -BUSINESS  STATIS- 

TICS,  ETC.- — BURLINGTON  AND  MISSOURI  RAILROAD, 

Fairfield  is  the  county-seat  of  Jefferson  county, 
and  a place  of  great  importance  to  the  thickly  set- 
tled, fertile  agricultural  region  of  which  it  is  the 
nucleus.  The  citizens  of  this  town  and  county 
all  appear  to  be  doing  well,  and  what  is  best  of  all, 
are  contented.  The  branch  of  the  State  University, 
and  the  Female  Seminary,  at  this  place,  are  both 
doing  well.  Several  manufactories  are  in  opera- 
tion here,  and  as  many  more  are  mu^  needed.  A 
large  steam  flouring-miU,  an  extensive  manufac- 
tory of  threshing-machines,  two  new  churches 
(Episcopal  and  Lutheran),  and  a great  number  of 
private  residences,  are  under  way.  Farms  near 
this  place  seU  at  ^35  to  $40  per  acre.  Town 
property  is  advancing  rapidly.  Some  half  a dozen 
saw-mills  have  been  erected  in  the  county  v/ithin 
the  last  year. 

That  this  is  a good  agricultural  community,  set- 
tled by  thinking  people,  may  be  inferred  from  the 
fact  that  the  Iowa  Farmer,  the  oldest  and  most 

(81) 


82 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


extensively  circulated  agricultural  paper  in  the 
State,  is  published  here ; besides  which,  there  are 
two  weeldy  papers,  well  sustained.  The  present 
population  of  this  place  is  nearly  2000.  The  rail- 
road will  be  completed  from  Burlington  to  Fair- 
field  early  next  year,  and,  once  in  direct  communi- 
cation with  the  East,  a new  impetus  will  be  given 
to  every  branch  of  art  and  industry. 

After  a pleasant  visit  with  my  friend,  A.  E.  Ful- 
ton, Esq.,  formerly  of  the  Ledger,  I proceed  to  the 
county-seat  of  ‘‘  High  Henry.” 

Mount  Pleasant  is  celebrated  for  the  healthiness 
and  beauty  of  its  location,  and  the  intelligence  of 
its  inhabitants.  The  town  is  laid  out  on  a liberal 
scale,  and  the  site  almost  unsurpassed,  for  an  inland 
town. 

There  are  six  church  edifices  in  Mount  Pleasant : 
Congregational,  Presbyterian,  Methodist,  Christian, 
O.  S.  Baptist,  and  Missionary  Baptist.  Other 
towns  and  villages  are  proportionably  weU  supplied 
with  churches,  all  of  which  are  well  attended,  and 
in  a healthy  condition.  In  point  of  morality  and 
sobriety,  the  community  of  Mount  Pleasant  is 
unsurpassed  in  the  State. 

Mount  Pleasant  has  been  named  and  known 
heretofore  as  the  point  possessing  and  offering 
greater  educational  advantages  than  any  other  place 
in  the  State,  and  she  has  as  yet  no  rival  in  this  re- 
spect, except  perhaps  Davenport.  The  Iowa  Wes- 
leyan University,  under  the  control  of  the  M.  E. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


83 


Church,  is  a collegiate  institute  of  the  first  grade, 
has  150  students,  and  is  in  full  and  successful 
operation.  The  Mount  Pleasant  High  School 
and  Female  Academy  has  an  average  attendance 
of  100  pupils. 

There  are  at  present  no  manufactories  of  impor- 
tance in  Henry  county.  Steam  flouring  and  saw- 
mills, a foundry,  and  a carding  and  fulling-mill  are 
much  needed,  and  would  prove  good  investments. 
Coal,  in  considerable  quantities,  has  been  found  on 
both  sides  of  the  Skunk  River ; also,  inexhaustible 
quarries  of  the  very  best  building  stone  near  Mount 
Pleasant.  The  Burlington  and  Missouri  River 
Railroad  will  be  finished  to  Mount  Pleasant  prob- 
ably before  this  work  shall  be  published.  The 
Muscatine  and  Keokuk  Railroad  also  touches 
Mount  Pleasant. 

The  Iowa  Insane  Asylum  was  recently  located 
at  Mount  Pleasant,  and  fifty  thousand  dollars 
appropriated  for  the  erection  of  the  building. 

The  soil  of  Henry  is  second  in  quality  to  that 
of  no  other  county  in  the  State.  The  land  is  well 
watered,  all  entered,  and  rapidly  filling  up  with  a 
highly  intellectual  and  industrious  class  of  citizens. 

Near  Mount  Pleasant,  you  again  reach  the  great 
iron  thoroughfare  that  places  you  in  connection 
with  almost  every  city  and  town  in  the  Union, 
from  Maine  to  Georgia,  and  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  Mississippi.  The  business  over  this  road,  as 
fast  and  as  far  as  it  has  been  completed,  has  been 


84 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


much  better  than  was  expected,  and  of  course 
has  given  a new  impetus  to  every  town  and  village 
on  the  route,  and  will  make  a very  important 
improvement  in  the  business  of  this  commercial 
centre  of  one  of  the  most  fertile  countries  in  the 
State. 

The  assessor  of  Centre  township,  Henry  county, 
shows  a population  of  4,730 ; Mount  Pleasant  is 
in  the  township,  and  has  a population  of  3,246  — 
a rapid  growth,  as  two  years  ago  it  had  only  1300. 

From  this  place  to  Bm-lington,  you  pass  over  a 
beautiful  section  of  country.  Here  you  see  large 
farms,  properly  fenced,  and  under  the  best  cultiva- 
tion, divided  into  meadow,  upland,  and  fields  of 
every  kind  of  grain,  with  an  orchard  and  garden, 
next  the  well-filled  barn,  the  roomy  farm-house, 
which  wears  an  air  of  hospitality  and  comfort 
peculiar  to  the  homes  of  the  generous-hearted 
farmers  of  southern  Iowa. 

Burlington,  the  county-seat  of  Des  Moines 
county,  is  situated  upon  the  Mississippi  river,  two 
hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  above  St.  Louis,  and 
two  hundred  and  ten  miles  from  Chicago,  by 
railroad.  This  city  was  incorporated  by  the  Legis- 
lature of  Wisconsin  in  1838,  and  the  charter 
amended  by  the  same  body  in  ’39  and  ’44 ; and,  al- 
though called  “ the  oldest  town  in  the  State,”  she 
is  yet  in  her  teens,  and,  old  as  she  is,  she  has 
not  yet  attained  her  growth.  In  1850,  Burlington 
had  a population  of  2000 ; in  1854,  of  8000 ; 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


85 


and  now,  in  the  fall  of  1856,  she  boasts  a popula- 
tion of  16,000!  During  the  past  few  years,  this 
place  has  steadily  increased  in  all  the  essentials 
that  go  to  make  up  a thriving  city ; and  the  present 
prospect  is,  that  it  will  become  one  of  the  most 
important  river  points  in  the  State.  Among  other 
public  improvements  may  be  mentioned  the  erec- 
tion of  a new  market  house,  to  cost  ^15,000. 

The  Iowa  Historical  and  Geological  Institute, 
one  of  the  most  important  institutions  in  the  State, 
is  located  in  this  city.  Its  object  is  to  collect  and 
preserve,  and  to  open  to  the  public,  historical  mat- 
ter of  all  kinds  (more  especially  that  relating  to 
Iowa) ; a general  library,  maps,  charts,  drawings, 
pictures,  statuary,  and  a cabinet  of  natural  curiosi- 
ties, and  to  sustain  pubHc  lectures.  The  Burling- 
ton University,  a collegiate  institution,  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Baptist  denomination,  was  located 
here  in  1852  — has  an  elegant  brick  edifice,  forty- 
four  by  sixty-five  feet,  three  stories  high.  A faculty 
of  eight  teachers,  and  a regular  attendance  of 
upwards  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  pupils,  shows 
the  school  to  be  in  a prosperous  condition. 

Burlington  contains  thirteen  houses  of  worship ; 
two  large  school-houses,  costing  $4000  each ; two 
daily  and  weekly  newspapers ; three  foundries ; two 
engine  and  machine  manufactories ; planing-mills ; 
steam  flouring-mills ; sash,  do  or,  and  blind  manu- 
factories ; steam  saw-mills ; steam  shingle  manu- 
factories ; also,  coach,  wagon,  plough,  brash,  can- 
8 


86 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


die,  match,  and  starch  manufactories,  each  driven 
by  steam  ; extensive  pork-packing  establishments  ; 
banking  houses ; hotels,  and  almost  everything  else 
found  in  any  city. 

The  Chicago  and  Burlington  Railroad  has  been 
in  operation  a little  over  a year,  and  since  its  com- 
pletion Burlington  has  increased  fully  one  hundred 
per  cent,  in  population,  and  from  Itwo  to  four  hun- 
dred per  cent,  in  business.  (See  statistics  of  this 
road  in  the  chapter  on  Railroads.) 

Her  projected  railways,  east  to  Indianapolis  and 
west  to  the  Missouri  River  (each  having  a pros- 
pect of  an  early  completion),  will  give  Burlington 
advantages  possessed  by  but  few  other  cities  on 
the  Mississippi  River. 

I heard  of  a transaction  in  real  estate  which  is 
given  as  a criterion  by  which  to  judge  of  the  rapid 
advance  in  the  value  of  property : a year  ago  last 
winter,  three  lots  on  Valley  street  were  offered  for 
twelve  hundred  dollars,  and  not  sold  for  want  of  a 
purchaser.  This  spring  these  same  lots  were  sold 
for  twelve  thousand  dollars  ! 


CHAPTER  XlVe 


TOUR  FROM  LYONS  TO  FORT  DODGE. LYONS  AND 

CLINTON. THE  IOWA  LAND  COMPANY. DEWITT, 

TIPTON,  CEDAR  RAPIDS,  MARION,  VINTON,  TOLEDO, 
MARIETTA,  NEVADA,  BOONSBORO’,  HOMER,  FORT 
DODGE. 

The  town  of  Lyons  is  situated  on  the  Missis- 
sippi River,  midway  between  Dubuque  and  Daven- 
port. For  several  years  this  was  but  a small 
hamlet,  a river-landing  for  the  residents  of  Clinton 
county,  containing  a few  stores,  a warehouse,  post- 
office,  etc.  But  within  three  years  it  has  received 
a great  impetus  from  the  projection  of  a raikoad 
into  Iowa  from  this  point,  and  the  completion  of 
the  Dixon  Air-line  from  Chicago  to  Fulton,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river. 

At  this  time,  Lyons  has  a population  of  2500, 
and  is  increasing  very  rapidly.  The  following 
is  a list  of  the  business  houses : two  banking 
houses,  fifty -three  stores  and  groceries,  two  ” steam 
saw-mills,  one  planing-mill,  one  iron  foundry  and 
machine-shop,  one  broom  factory,  two  newspapers, 
four  hotels,  and  six  land  agencies.  There  are  six 
churches,  but  no  schools  of  any  note ; a respectable 

(87) 


88 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


public  school  is  sustained  a part  of  the  year.  The 
New  School  Presbyterians  propose  establishing  an 
institution  of  learning  here  at  no  distant  day. 

Clinton  is  located  two  miles  below  Lyons,  on 
the  Mississippi  River.  One  year  ago  the  town  of 
Clinton  was  not  known  on  any  map  of  Iowa.  It 
did  not  exist  until  August  1,  1855.  To-day,  its 
population  is  1000.  The  Iowa  Land  Company, 
in  July,  1855,  purchased  the  farm  which  was 
the  site  of  this  city,  mowed  down  the  corn  fields, 
laid  out  the  ground  into  city  lots ; and  where,  four 
months  before,  the  corn-tassels  had  w;aved  in  the 
summer  breeze,  the  largest  hotel  in  Iowa  reared  its 
lofty  front.  This  company,  in  laying  out  their 
town,  have  made  liberal  provision  for  schools, 
churches,  and  Libraries,  by  donating  lots  to  each. 
They  grade  the  aventies  and  streets,  and  plant 
shade  trees  along  the  walks. 

As  a continuation  westward  of  the  Chicago, 
Dixon,  and  Fulton  City  Railroad,  a line  is  being 
built  from  Clinton  through  central  Iowa,  under 
the  name  of  the  Chicago,  Iowa,  and  Nebraska 
Railroad.  The  work  on  this  road  is  progressing 
rapidly,  and  the  locomotive  is  already  on  the  track, 
making  its  way  westward  into  the  Cedar  Valley, 
which  D.  D.  Owen,  U.  S.  geologist,  says  is  the 
finest  body  t>f  land  in  North  America. 

According  to  the  last  report  of  the  company, 
dated  June 2,  1856,  “there  are  nowin  ^Clinton’ 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


89 


three  hotels  ; several  dry  goods  stores,  three  grocery 
stores,  two  hardware  stores,  one  furniture  store,  one 
clothing  store,  one  boot  and  shoe  store,  one  bank, 
(another  organizing),  one  church,  two  doctor’s  of- 
fices, four  lawyer’s  offices,  one  warehouse,  one 
newspaper,  two  livery  stables,  one  drug  store,  one 
builder’s  shop,  two  saw-mills,  one  lumber-yard,  one 
brick-yard,  two  lime-kilns  (one  Page’s  patent),  two 
stone  quarries. 

“ Sales  have  also  been  made  to  parties  who  are 
preparing  to  put  up  a large  foundry  for  railroad 
castings,  a car  and  machine  shop,  a planing-mill, 
and  another  warehouse.” 

From  their  advantageous  location,  and  the  in- 
fluences already  brought  to  bear  upon  this  point, 
Lyons  and  Clinton  are  destined  to  be  among  the 
most  important  places  on  the  Mississippi  River. 
Their  interests  are  one  and  the  same ; being  within 
six  hours  of  Chicago  by  railroad,  and  forty  miles 
nearer  than  any  other  point  on  the  river  to  that 
city,  is  an  advantage  not  to  be  overlooked ; and  the 
traveller  who  visits  this  point  ten  years  hence-— 
perchance  in  his  flight  westward  across  the  conti- 
nent— will  find,  for  three  miles,  a city  standing 
along  the  banks  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  and 
reaching  up  her  bluffs,  and  over  into  the  prairies 
beyond,  whose  busy  hum  v/ill  go  up  from  the  con- 
gregated activity  of  twenty  thousand  people. 

Leaving  Clinton,  on  the  road  to  Dewitt,  we  pass 
over  a pleasant  prairie  country,  a good  proportion 
8* 


90 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


under  cultivation.  The  face  of  the  country  is 
rolling  prairie,  dotted  with  frequent  groves  of  tim- 
ber, and  watered  by  living  streams  whose  foun- 
tains are  clear  springs.  Dewitt  is  twenty  miles 
from  Lyons  and  Clinton,  and  is  the  county-seat 
of  Clinton  county.  The  prospect  of  a railroad 
connection  with  the  East  has  given  this  town  a 
new  impetus.  Situated  as  it  is  in  the  heart  of  a 
fine  farming  county,  anticipating  a speedy  connec- 
tion with  the  river  by  a railroadj  we  look  for  a 
rapid  growth  in  the  wealth  and  population  of  this 
beautifully  located  town. 

The  Dewitt  Clintonian,  a smart,  racy  paper,  is 
published  here.  The  contractors  expect  to  have 
the  cars  running  from  Clinton  to  Dewitt  this  fall. 

Leaving  Dewitt,  on  the  line  of  the  Chicago, 
Iowa,  and  Nebraska  Railroad,  passing  through  the 
western  tier  of  townships  in  Clinton  county,  we 
enter  the  northwestern  corner  of  Cedar.  This 
county  is  possessed  of  excellent  soil,  well  adapted 
to  farming  purposes.  Though  not  as  well  tim- 
bered as  some  counties  in  the  State,  yet  it  is  finely 
watered,  and  the  farmer  need  have  no  fears  in 
fixing  on  this  county  as  a favored  location.  Tip- 
ton  is  the  county-seat,  is  built  on  the  high  prairie, 
and  as  an  inland  town  few  are  as  advantage- 
ously located  in  point  of  beauty  and  healthful- 
ness. The  present  population  of  the  town  is  1000, 
that  of  the  county  9000.  Raih'oads  in  prospect- 
ive are  opening  up  the  rich  resomrces  of  Cedar 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


91 


county  to  a ready  market.  The  Tipton  Advertiser, 
a sensible,  well-conducted  paper,  is  published  here. 
The  Cedar  County  Democrat,  a new  but  well 
sustained  paper,  is  published  here.  At  Rochester, 
in  Cedar  county,  the  citizens  offer,  to  any  person 
who  will  bring  a complete  steam  saw  and  grist- 
mill  to  that  place  $1,000  and  a good  mill-site. 

Entering  Linn  county  in  the  southern  tier  of 
townships,  we  pass  in  a northwesterly  direction  on 
the  road  to  Cedar  Rapids,  visiting  on  our  route 
St.  Mary’s,  a pleasant,  thriving  post-town.  A few 
miles  further  on  we  arrive  at  Lisbon  and  Mount 
Vernon,  pretty  villages,  that  eventually  are  des- 
tined to  be  united,  forming  one  of  the  pleasantest 
inland  towns  in  the  State,  Pursuing  our  way,  we 
arrive  at  Newark,  which  is  now  only  a post-town, 
but  has  a destiny  above  its  present  appearance. 
Look  out  for  the  railroad  ! Six  miles  farther,  over 
a beautiful,  well-cultivated  section,  we  arrive  at 
Cedar  Rapids  City,  which  is  located  on  the  Cedar 
River,  seventy-live  miles  west  from  Chnton  and 
twenty-nine  north  from  Iowa  City  by  stage-road. 
This  place  was  laid  out  in  1842,  and  has  now  a 
population  of  more  than  2,700  inhabitants.  The 
Cedar  River  at  this  point  flows  over  a rocky 
ledge  in  the  river,  forming  an  extensive  rapid, 
which  is  capable  of  being  improved  to  almost  any 
extent.  With  the  present  imperfect  improvements, 
power  sufficient  is  obtained  to  drive  one  hundred 
and  thirty  run  of  stones.  The  principal  man  a- 


92 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


factories  are  eight  flouring-mills,  five  saw-mills, 
two  planing-miils,  one  paper-mill,  one  foundry, 
and  an  agricultural  implement  manufactory,  one 
woolen  factory,  doing  a business  amounting  to 
^50,000  per  annum,  and  two  sash  door,  and  blind 
manufactories.  There  are  eight  brick-yards,  man- 
ufacturing, last  year,  3,000,000  brick.  To  this  may 
be  added  eighty-three  general  stores,  aU  doing  a 
good  business ; one  firm  (Daniels  & Co.)  alone  do 
a business  amounting  to  ^90,000  per  annum. 
There  are  three  banking  and  exchange  offices,  which 
do  also  a land  agency  business.  Three  good  news- 
papers are  published  here.  A large  amount  of 
grain  is  exported  annually.  One  firm  last  year 
exported,  of  wheat,  10,000  bushels ; of  corn,  7,000 
bushels ; of  oats,  8,000  bushels. 

The  total  value  of  manufactures  in  1855  was 
$291,000.  Capital  invested  was  $129,500.  The 
amount  of  flour  manufactured  was  20,000  barrels. 
This  finds  its  way  to  various  parts  of  the  State, 
and  is  everywhere  known  to  be  of  the  finest 
quality. 

The  amount  of  lumber  sawed  in  1855  was 
2,200,000  feet,  and  the  timber  to  furnish  this  lum- 
ber was  cut  from  the  banks  of  the  Cedar,  and  in 
the  vicinity.  Coal  has  recently  been  discovered, 
ten  miles  from  the  city,  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
which  is  of  good  quality. 

Society  here  is  good.  Four  chm*ches  are  organ- 
ized. A well-conducted  seminary,  and  four  public 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


93 


schools  are  established,  enjoying  the  full  confi- 
dence of  the  people. 

Eeader,  Cedar  Eapids  is  a smart  place^^'  and, 
when  you  are  searching  Iowa  for  a good  location, 
take  a careful  survey  of  this  point.  The  Chicago, 
Iowa,  and  Nebraska  Eailroad  (with  Charles  Walker, 
Esq.,  of  Chicago,  as  President)  will  at  the  earliest 
possible  day  find  its  way  into  the  heart  of  Linn 
county,  conveying  all  her  rich  stores  directly  to  an 
eastern  market.  From  this  place  northward  the 
railroad  is  projected  to  South  Bend,  Minnesota,  to 
intersect  the  Dubuque  and  Pacific,  at  a point  nearly 
north  from  this  place, 

Marion,  the  county-seat  of  Linn,  is  situated  six 
miles  northwest  of  this  place,  and  is  now  inhab- 
ited by  a stirring  set  of  people.  The  Linn  County 
Eegister  is  published  here.  Crossing  the  Cedar 
Kiver,  we  notice  two  substantial  bridges  in  course 
of  erection. 

Continuing  our  course,  we  pass  through  a beau- 
tiful farming  district,  with  pleasant  groves  dotting 
the  landscape  with  their  refreshing  shade ; on  every 
hand,  the  commodious  and  in  many  places  even 
elegant  farm-houses,  with  their  wealth  of  orchard 
and  garden  fruits  ripening  in  the  sun,  present  a 
picture  of  plenty  and  comfort,  that  tells  us  the  pion- 
eer is  now  reaping  his  reward  for  days  of  priva- 
tion and  toil. 

Entering  Benton  county,  which  lies  next  on  the 
west,  we  find  a good  body  of  land,  but  somewhat 


94 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


new  in  its  improvements,  in  many  parts  of  the 
county.  The  first  settlement  was  made  in  1841 ; 
the  present  population  is  4500.  Vinton,  the  county- 
seat  and  largest  town,  was  first  settled  in  1851,  and 
has  a population  of  600.  It  is  a thriving,  busy 
little  place,  and  bids  fan  to  be  a town  of  impor- 
tance. The  Vinton  Eagle  is  published  here. 
Benton  City,  in  this  county,  has  300  inhabitants, 
and  is  destined  to  be  a point  of  considerable  busi- 
ness. 

Tama  county,  next  on  our  route,  is  as  fine  a body 
of  land  as  can  be  found  anywhere.  It  is  well  tim- 
bered and  well  watered.  The  Iowa  River  passes 
through  the  southern  portion  of  the  county.  On 
one  of  its  tributaries  coal  has  been  found,  which,  it 
is  thought,  will  yield  a good  supply,  and  of  a fine 
quality.  Toledo  is  the  county-seat  and  principal 
town,  has  a population  of  450,  and  is  going  ahead 
rapidly.  A first  class  steam  flouring-mill  has  been 
erected  here  within  the  year.  The  Toledo  Tribune 
is  published  here.  The  present  population  of  the 
county  is  5000. 

Proceeding  onward  we  enter  Marshall.  This 
county  is  similar  in  soil  and  degree  of  cultivation 
to  Tama.  It  is  well  watered  by  the  Iowa,  and 
contains  some  very  fine  mill-sites.  At  this  time 
there  are  two  steam  saw-mills  and  three  flom’ing- 
mills  in  the  county.  The  population,  according  to 
the  last  census,  was  5000.  Marietta  is  the  county- 
seat,  and  is  a growing  town  of  several  hundred 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


95 


inhabitants,  with  the  requisite  number  of  stores, 
groceries,  and  shops. 

The  recent  land  grants  to  railroads  extend 
through  the  counties  we  have  last  mentioned. 

Every  inducement  is  offered  settlers  to  establish 
themselves  here.  The  certainty  of  an  outlet  for 
this  fertile  region,  by  the  projected  railroads,  will 
give  every  class  of  business  a fresh  impulse.  Stock- 
raisers,  wool-growers,  and  farmers  generally,  will 
not  find  a better  location  for  their  operations  than 
these  counties  afford.  Manufacturers  will  find 
wool  grown  within  their  own  neighborhood,  and 
the  water-power  for  operating  with  just  at  hand. 
Lands  will  doubtless  increase  in  value  here  from 
the  conditions  of  the  land  grant,  and  the  near  pros- 
pect of  a railroad  connection  with  the  East. 

Leaving  Marietta,  we  pass  into  Story  county, 
which  we  find  as  yet  but  sparsely  settled.  Pursuing 
our  course  westward,  we  pass  over  extended  prai- 
ries, dotted  here  and  there  with  groves  of  timber. 
Occasionally  a red  deer  bounds  away  over  our 
pathway,  and  seeks  the  nearest  ravine  for  shelter 
from  our  dreaded  presence.  Our  eyes  sometimes 
wander  over  the  sea  of  bUlowy  green  before  us,  for 
hours,  without  seeing  anything  to  indicate  the 
presence  of  mankind,  save  the  worn  track  or  trail 
across  the  prairies.  As  we  advance  we  see  broken 
fields,  and  the  blue  smoke  curling  up  from  the  set- 
tler’s rude  cabin.  Bending  our  course  southward 
we  arrive  at  Nevada.  This  is  the  county-seat  of 


96 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


Story  county  — is  situated  on  the  Skunk,  whieh 
here  is  but  a small  stream.  This  river  extends 
through  the  county  in  a diagonal  direction,  and  the 
banks  are  covered  with  a good  quality  of  timber. 
The  route  of  the  railroad  lies  through  the  northern 
part  of  the  county,  which,  though  but  recently  or- 
ganized and  sparsely  settled,  to  the  present  time, 
is  now  rapidly  filling  up.  The  land  here  is  gener- 
ally entered,  much  of  it  by  non-residents. 

Boone  county  was  first  settled  at  Pea’s  Point 
(now  called  Flat  Bock),  in  May,  1846,  by  John 
Pea,  a pioneer  of  the  old  stock,  a Pennsylvanian 
by  birth,  who  has  lived  in  every  State  that  inter- 
venes between  his  native  State  and  Iowa,  when 
they  were  wild  and  primitive  forests.  He  was  also 
an  early  settler  in  Missouri.  This  old  man  still 
resides  in  Boone  county,  and,  with  the  gray  hairs 
of  some  seventy  years  upon  his  head,  sueh  are  his 
erect  form  and  comparatively  robust  constitution, 
that  time  seems  to  have  broken  its  billows  over  his 
manly  form  only  as  the  ocean  spends  its  fury  over 
the  immovable  rock  of  its  shores.  The  old  gentle- 
man is  still  full  of  adventure  and  enterprise,  and 
may  ere  long  be  one  of  the  freemen  of  Nebraska. 

Montgomery  McCaU  settled  near  where  Boons- 
boro’  now  stands,  in  the  month  of  February,  1847, 
and  for  about  a year  his  family  lived  nearer  the 
source  of  the  Des  Moines  River  than  any  other 
white  family.  During  the  winter  of  1846  and 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


97 


1847,  seven  hundred  Pottawattamie  Indians  were 
encamped  in  the  vicinity  of  these  families. 

The  Des  Moines  River  passes  entirely  through 
this  county,  running  north  and  south.  Beds  of 
coal  appear  all  along  the  banks  of  the  river.  The 
present  population  of  the  county  is  2000 ; that  of 
Boonsboro’,  the  county-seat,  450. 

Passing  up  the  Bes  Moines  valley,  the  next  town 
of  importance  is  Homer,  the  former  county-seat  of 
Boone  county,  which  is  situated  on  a high  rolling 
prairie,  half  way  between  Boone  and  Des  Moines 
Rivers.  The  first  house  built  upon  this  town-site 
was  in  February,  1854 ; and  now,  August,  1856, 
there  are  hotels,  school-houses,  stores,  and  all  the 
concomitants  of  a thrifty  growing  town,  with  a 
population  of  400. 

Fort  Dodge,  the  present  county-seat  and  largest 
town  in  the  county,  is  very  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Des  Moines  River,  is  the 
seat  of  the  land  office,  and  the  most  important 
town  north  of  Fort  Demoine. 

Webster  county  is  the  largest  in  the  State,  con- 
taining 921,600  acres  of  land,  comprising  what  is 
shown  on  the  old  maps  as  Tell  and  Risley,  and 
the  south  half  of  Humboldt.  The  soil  is  equal  in 
richness  to  that  of  any  county  in  the  State ; deep 
and  easily  worked.  The  Des  Moines  and  its  tribu- 
taries afford  a good  supply  of  water  for  irrigation, 
and  numerous  mill-sites.  Along  these  streams  there 
is  an  abundance  of  timber,  and  on  the  Des  Moines 
9 


98 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


and  Boone  some  excellent  beds  of  coal  are  found. 
Beside  which,  near  Fort  Dodge  are  gypsum  beds 
(covering  a space  of  nearly  sixteen  square  miles), 
also  iron  ore,  the  best  quality  of  limestone,  sand- 
stone for  building  purposes,  clays,  from  the  coarse 
material  for  brick  to  the  fine  potter’s  clay,  and  red 
and  yellow  ochre.  The  possession  of  all  these 
natural  advantages  and  elements  of  wealth  and 
greatness  render  this  point  one  of  the  best  in  the 
State  for  real  estate  investments,  and  will  secure 
to  it,  at  an  early  day,  a railroad  connection  with 
South  Bend  on  the  north,  the  Capital  on  the  south, 
with  Dubuque  and  Clinton  on  the  Mississippi,  and 
Sioux  City  on  the  Missouri.  (See  chapter  on  rail- 
roads.) 


CHAPTER  XV. 


TOUR  FROM  FORT  DODGE  TO  DUBUQUE.  — KOSSUTH 

COUNTY. THE  SOIL  OF  NORTHWESTERN  IOWA. 

WEBSTER  CITY. HARDIN  COUNTY  AND  HER  TOWNS. 

FRANKLIN  COUNTY. BUTLER  COUNTY.- — BREY/- 

ER  COUNTY. CEDAR  FALLS,  WATERLOO,  INDEPEN- 

DENCE, DELHI,  DUBUQUE.-— BUSINESS  STATISTICS 
OF  DUBUQUE. 

Forty  miles  north  of  Fort  Dodge  is  Algona, 
the  county-seat  of  Kossuth.  This  county,  as  well 
as  Webster,  is  very  large,  extending  fifty-four  miles 
north  and  south  and  twenty-four  east  and  west 
Algona  is  beautifully  situated  upon  the  east  fork 
of  the  Des  Moines  River,  also  upon  the  State 
road  leading  from  Fort  Dodge  to  Mankato,  and  the 
South  Bend  of  the  St.  Peters,  forty  miles  north. 
A road  has  been  recently  opened  from  this  point 
due  east,  so  that  immigrants  coming  to  this  sec- 
tion may  land  at  McGregor’s  Landing,  and  pro- 
ceed due  west  140  miles  to  this  point,  or  stop  at 
excellent  locations  in  any  county  east  or  west  of 
here.  Let  farmers  and  mechanics  not  overlook  this 
county. 

From  Webster  and  Kossuth,  west,  is  a vast 

(09) 


100 


IOWA  HANDBOOK.  . 


uncultivated  paradise,  some  of  it  unsurveyed,  and 
hardly  trodden  by  the  foot  of  the  pioneer  settlers ; 
but  it  is  enough  for  us  to  say  that  it  is  made  up  of 
good  soil,  and  rich  in  the  most  serviceable  and 
enduring  of  natural  advantages. 

By  reference  to  the  map  of  Iowa,  it  will  be  seen 
that  the  most  northerly  connection  line  in  Iowa 
passes  near  Fort  Dodge  and  Webster  City,  and  ter- 
minates at  Sioux  City,  on  the  west  and  at  Dubuque 
on  the  east.  This  is  in  latitude  42°  30'.  Owen, 
the  United  States  geologist,  says  of  the  fertility  of 
this  section : “ The  prairie  country,  based  on  rocks 
belonging  to  the  Devonian  and  carboniferous  sys- 
tems, extending  up  the  valleys  of  the  Bed  Cedar, 
Iowa,  and  Des  Moines,  as  high  as  latitude  42°  31 ', 
presents  a body  of  arable,  land,  which,  taken  as  a 
whole,  for  richness  in  organic  elements,  for  amount 
of  saline  matter,  and  due  admixture  of  earthy 
silicates,  affords  a combination  that  belongs  only  to 
the  most  fertile  upland  plains.” 

Throughout  this  district  the  general  levelness  of 
the  smdace,  interrupted  only  by  gentle  swells  and 
moderate  undulations,  offers  facilities  for  the  intro- 
duction of  all  those  aids  which  machinery  is  daily 
adding,  to  diminish  the  labor  of  cultivation,  and 
render  easy  and  expeditious  the  collection  of  an 
abundant  harvest.  The  reader  may  hear  bugbear 
stories  of  the  swamps  and  sloughs,  and  see  numer- 
ous “impassable  marshes”  marked  upon  certain 
old  fogy  maps ; but  D.  D.  Owen,  who  made  a geo- 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


101 


logical  survey  of  this  section,  under  an  act  of  Con- 
gress, is  supposed  to  be  good  authority — hear  him : 
“ There  are,  it  is  true,  limited  spots,  less  desirable 
for  farming  purposes,  where  the  ground  is  liable  to 
be  overflowed  by  adjacent  streaius,  in  times  of 
freshets,  and  where  local  geological  causes  operate 
to  alter  the  composition  of  the  soil ; or  where,  from 
too  uniform  a flatness  of  ground  near  the  sources 
of  streams,  water  stagnates  ; these  form^  however 
but  a small  portion  of  the  ivhole.^’’ 

The  country  north  of  latitude  42^^  is  most  defi- 
cient in  timber ; but  few  groves  exist,  and  the  belts 
skirting  the  borders  of  rivers  diminish  in  quantity 
toward  the  heads  of  the  streams.  This  disadvan- 
tage, however,  is  more  than  counterbalanced  by  the 
ease  with  which  a farm  can  be  brought  under  cul- 
tivation, and  the  abundance  of  coal  contiguous  to 
this  region  will  render  the  consumption  of  timber 
for  fuel  unnecessary ; however,  with  proper  econ- 
omy and  a little  forethought,  an  ample  supply, 
both  of  fuel  and  fencing  timber,  may,  in  most 
instances,  be  insured.  Those  who  have  tried  both 
methods  state  that  it  is  easier  to  plant  groves  of 
timber,  and  grow  them  where  you  wish,  than  to 
get  rid  of  timber  already  on  the  ground,  where  it  is 
not  wanted,  effectually  clearing  out  the  stumps  and 
roots.  The  writer  saw,  this  season,  in  Northern 
Ohio,  a field  of  oats,  where  fully  one-eighth  of  the 
crop  was  lost  by  the  presence  of  numerous  old 
stumps  — neither  the  plough  nor  cradle  can  ap- 


102 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


proach  very  near  the  obstacles.  Upon  this  ground, 
cleared  nearly  thirty  years  ago,  there  was  an  average 
of  a stump  to  every  square  rod  I 

Webster  City  (originally  called  New  Castle), 
about  twenty-two  miles  east  of  Fort  Dodge,  on  the 
Dubuque  road,  has  a pleasant,  healthy,  and  advan- 
tageous location,  intelligent  and  industrious  cit- 
izens, is  surrounded  by  an  abundance  of  the  first 
quality  of  hard  wood  timber,  building  stone,  and 
good  water  power,  and,  of  course,  is  growing  rap- 
idly. The  present  population  is  stated  at  up- 
wards of  300.  Messrs.  Kellogg,  Wilder  & Co., 
from  Cleveland,  Ohio,  were  about  starting  the 
Western  Homestead  Journal  here.  Those  about 
to  engage  in  manufactmdng  will  do  well  to  look 
at  this  point.  The  Messrs.  Wilson,  town  pro- 
prietors, will  give  lots  to  actual  settlers  and  mechan- 
ics. I advise  farmers  and  stock-raisers  to  examine 
Webster  and  adjoining  counties,  before  going 
farther  west  or  north.  Government  land  in  this 
district,  as  in  all  others  in  the  State,  is  scarce,  and 
better  investments  can  be  made  in  well  selected 
second-hand  lands,  at  from  $2.50  to  $10  an  acre, 
than  to  depend  upon  entering  land  from  the  public 
domain. 

Hardin  county  is  next  on  our  route  east.  The 
same  description  of  soil  as  in  Webster  con- 
tinues through  to  the  Mississippi,  with  but  little 
variation.  In  certain  localities  the  soil  is  more 
sandy,  and  along  some  of  the  divides  a sand-ridge 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


103 


composed  of  pebbles  and  conglomerate  stone  will 
be  seen;  which,  however,  occur  but  seldom. 

The  principal  towns  in  Hardin  county,  and  the 
population  of  each,  may  be  thus  stated : Eldora, 
the  county-seat,  250 ; Hardin  City,  350 ; E-ocksyl- 
vania,  175;  Po’keepsie,  200  ; Steamboat  Rock,  300. 
Each  of  these  towns,  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
Iowa  River,  has  advantages  which  will  cause  them 
to  increase  to  a considerable  size.  Po’keepsie 
is  just  half  way  between  Dubuque  and  Sioux  City. 
At  Eldora,  Steamboat  Rock,  and  Po’keepsie,  banks 
of  coal  are  opened,  where  veins  from  six  to  nine 
feet  thick  are  exposed,  and  coal  of  an  excellent 
quality  is  taken  out.  This  coal  is  used  by  black- 
smiths fifty  miles  distant.  The  limestone  in  the 
neighborhood  furnishes  a beautiful  building  mate- 
rial, easily  quarried,  and  susceptible  of  a very  high 
polish.  It  is  of  that  variety  known  as  birdseye 
marble.  The  Iowa  and  its  tributaries  furnish  good 
water  power,  which  is  being  rapidly  improved. 

Hardin  county  was  first  settled  in  1851 ; it  now 
contains  a population  of  about  2500.  The  Hardin 
County  Sentinel  is  the  only  paper  published  in 
the  county — large  and  well  conducted. 

* Franklin  county,  which  joins  Plardin  on  the 
north,  the  writer  has  never  visited ; nor  those  still 
north  and  northwest.  It  is  represented  as  being 
rather  low  for  successful  farming ; there  are,  how- 
ever, very  desirable  locations  in  Franklin. 

Butler  county  is  young  in  years,  but  fertile  and 


104 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


flourishing.  Clarksville,  the  county-seat,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Shellrock  River,  boasts  an  excellent 
water-power,  a good  supply  of  timber,  and  an 
energetic  people.  This  town  has  three  saw-mills, 
two  hotels,  two  stores,  a school-house,  etc.  Shell- 
rock,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  stream,  a fev/ 
miles  below,  is  a new  town,  laid  out  within  a year, 
and  has  now  about  forty  buildings.  - A first  rate 
saw-mill  is  kept  constantly  running,  and  still  fails 
to  supply  the  demand  for  lumber.  A grist-mill  is 
being  built.  Butler  Centre,  near  the  geographical 
centre  of  the  county,  has  recently  been  laid  out, 
and  is  building  up  rapidly.  An  cflbrt  is  being 
made  to  remove  the  county-seat  to  this  town. 
Cold  Water  is  the  name  of  a village  on  Cold 
Water  Creek,  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the 
county,  the  post-office  for  which  is  called  Elm 
Springs. 

Brewer  county  was  first  settled  in  1848-9. 
Population  of  the  county  in  August,  1856,  esti- 
mated to  be  3,500.  Waverly,  the  county-seat,  is 
situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Cedar  River — 
established  in  June,  1853 ; and  in  June,  1856,  it 
contained  600  inhabitants,  and  is  increasing  rapidly. 
Janesville  is  located  six  miles  below  Waverly,  on  tlfb 
east  bank  of  the  Cedar,  and  three  miles  above  its 
junction  with  the  Shellrock.  The  town  is  delight- 
fully situated,  being  in  the  midst  of  a rich  and  fer- 
tile farming  country,  with  an  abundance  of  good 
titnber  of  every  description.  The  Brewer  County 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


105 


Herald  is  published  in  Janesville,  and  the  E-epub- 
lican  at  Waverly.  A body  of  timber  known  as 
“the  lower  big  woods,”  embracing  some  forty  sec- 
tions, lies  in  the  vicinity  of  these  towns,  and  is  a 
consideration  of  no  minor  importance,  in  a prairie 
country.  There  are  six  streams  of  considerable 
size  traversing  this  county  from  northwest  to  south- 
east, which,  with  their  tributaries,  afford  numerous 
mill-sites  ; and  whose  banks  are  rich  in  an  excellent 
quality  of  building  stone. 

Black  Plawk  county  lies  next  south  of  Brewer. 
This  county  possesses  native  elements  of  future 
wealth  worthy  of  note.  At  Cedar  Falls,  as  well 
as  several  other  points  in  the  county,  the  best  of 
water  power  and  eligible  sites  for  mills  and  manu- 
facturing establishments  hold  out  inducements  to 
capitalists.  A joint  stock  company,  with  a capital 
of  $50,000,  has  been  organized,  who  intend  to 
establish  an  extensive  woollen  factory  this  fall,  and 
other  manufactories  next  season.  A new  hotel, 
built  of  patent  brick,  eighty  by  eighty-eight  feet, 
four  stories  high,  to  cost  $18,000,  is  being  erected. 
The  Cedar  Falls  Banner  is  an  ably  conducted 
newspaper,  published  here.  Waterloo,  the  county- 
seat,  is  situated  on  both  sides  the  river,  and  has  a 
charming  site  for  a town,  with  a wide-awake 
population  of  500 ; and  is  improving  rapidly. 
Black  Hawk  is  made  up  of  excellent  farming  lands, 
and  is  settled  by  a good  class  of  people— princi- 
pally from  New  England. 


J06 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


Buchanan  county,  first  settled  in  1842,  now 
contains  nearly  5000  inhabitants.  Independence, 
the  county-seat,  was  located  in  1846,  and  now 
numbers  between  800  and  1000  inhabitants. 
The  Civilian,  a brisk  and  weU-managed  paper,  is 
published  here.  Newspapers  are  the  thermome- 
ters whereby  a man’s  facilities  and  desires  for  doing 
business  may  be  judged ; and,  from  the  advertise- 
ments in  the  Civilian,  I infer  Independence  has 
her  supply  of  business  houses,  and  a country 
surrounding  to  demand  ail  she  has.  The  soil  of 
Black  Hawk  is  a deep,  sandy  loam ; streams  rapid, 
with  gravelly  beds ; their  banlvs  rich  in  timber  and 
building  stone. 

Delaware  county  is  next  in  our  route  eastward  ; 
first  settled  1 843,  it  now  has  a population  of  8100. 
This  county  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  wool-gi'owing, 
and  the  facilities  for  manufacturing  have  but  to  be 
made  known  to  secure  their  improvement  by  capi- 
talists. The  prairie  is  gently  undulating,  with  a 
favorable  admixture  of  vegetable  mould  and  sand, 
based  upon  a porous  clay  subsoil.  Limestone,  clay 
for  manufacturing  brick,  and  numerous  groves  of 
timber,  are  among  the  natural  advantages.  Delhi, 
the  county-seat,  contains  about  800  inhabitants, 
is  pleasantly  situated  near  the  Maquoketa  River, 
and,  of  course,  is  improving.  The  Delhi  Repub- 
lican is  the  organ  for  this  county,  and  its  well- 
timed  tones  tell  creditably  for  the  county. 

Within  a few  rods  of  this  towm-plat  is  a sheet 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


107 


of  pure  soft  water  covering  about  one  hundred 
and  sixty  acres,  containing  an  abundance  of  fish. 

There  are  several  other  towns  in  the  county, 
* which,  though  small,  are  points  of  importance,  and 
centres  for  well-settled  agricultural  districts.  The 
names  of  those  towns  can  be  seen  upon  the  map 
in  this  work,  or  in  the  chapter  giving  a list  of  Iowa 
post-offices. 

From  Delhi  to  the  city  of  Dubuque,  the  road 
leads  over  a section  of  country  that  is  strikingly 
beautiful.  It  is  of  rolling  prairie,  well  wmtered, 
interspersed  with  groves  of  timber,  while  still  larger 
bodies  of  timber  extend  north  and  south,  along  the 
banks  of  the  streams.  This  county  is  very  well 
settled,  as  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  its 
population  is  now  estimated  at  about  20,000. 
There  are  upwards  of  twenty  towns  and  post-offices 
in  this  county,  besides  Dubuque,  (See  list  of 
post-offices,  in  another  chapter.)  Dubuque  county 
contains  a most  noted  mineral  region;  and,  sin- 
gular as  it  may  appear,  though  in  the  very  heart  of 
a lead  district,  the  soil  is  generally  of  the  most 
productive  character,  yielding  large  crops  of  grain. 
Few  countries  in  the  world  possess  the  combined 
advantages  of  a soil  rich  in  fertility,  and  at  the  same 
time  underlaid  with  inexhaustible  veins  of  lead  ore. 
Lead  is  the  great  staple  of  export,  as  will  be  seen 
by  the  annexed  statistics.  Copper  and  zinc  have 
also  been  discovered,  but  not  in  sufficient  qiianti- 


108 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


ties  to  induce  capitalists  to  enlist  in  the  work  of 
developing  them.  Several  valuable  lodes  or  veins 
of  lead  were  discovered  during  the  past  winter. 
Mineral  lots  are  laid  off  in  almost  every  conceivable 
shape,  and  contain  about  ten  acres  each. 

The  city  of  Dubuque,  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  densely  populated  in  the  State,  is  handsomely 
situated  upon  a natural  terrace.  The  streets  run 
parallel  to  each  other,  and,  owing  to  the  peculiar 
soil  at  this  location,  are  never  muddy.  This  city  is 
more  compactly  built,  and  contains  a greater  pro- 
portion of  fine  buildings,  than  any  other  place  in 
the  State.  The  city  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  a 
range  of  high  bluffs,  which  are  crowned  by  the  most 
elegant  and  costly  residences  in  Iowa,  of  which  are 
those  of  Hon.  George  W.  Jones,  the  Messrs.  Lang- 
worthy (four  in  number),  J.  A.  Pinto,  Esq.,  and 
others.  From  the  observatory  of  each  of  these 
bluff-homes  the  prospect  of  the  city  and  country  is 
entrancingly  beautiful.  No  other  point  in  the  State 
furnishes  a landscape  more  varied,  and  magnificent, 
and  grand,  than  this. 

No  better  idea  can  be  given  of  the  extensive  and 
increasing  business  of  Dubuque,  than  by  inserting 
a statistical  table,  from  “ Iowa,  as  it  is  in  1856 : ” 

Total  Tonnage . Value. 

Imports  to  Dubuque  in  1855  276,099  05  $11,266,845  18 

“ “ 1854  97,633  00  4,933,208  65 


Increase 


79,006  05  $6,333,036  53 


IOWA  HANDBOOK, 


109 


Total  Tonnage. 

Value. 

Exports  from  Dubuque  iu  1855 

24,237  15 

$3,689,266  58 

“ “ 1854 

11,736  00 

1,573,408  30 

Increaso 

12,501  15 

$2,115,858  28 

Lead  exported  in  1855 

5,262 

$631,440 

Iron,  steel,  and  nails  exported 

in  1855  2,400 

384,000 

Elour  “ 

2,640 

216,000 

Wheat 

‘‘  1,620 

81,000 

Corn 

“ 150 

1,500 

Crossed  the  Dubuque  Ferry 

in  1854. 

in  1855. 

Men,  women,  and  children 

. 38,400 

58,200 

Wagons  .... 

4,300 

10,700 

Carriages 

. 2,100 

4,300 

Cattle  .... 

9,518 

14,210 

Sheep  .... 

. 2,708 

4,680 

Hogs  ..... 

6,630 

16,124 

From  the  12th  of  April  to  the  5th  of  July,  1856, 
there  crossed  the  upper  ferry,  at  that  city,  812  fam- 
ilies, consisting  of  4,504  members  — having  in 
their  possession  1,031  wagons,  1,728  head  of  horses, 
and  7,722  head  of  cattle.  A separate  estimate 
having  been  made  of  sheep,  they  are  found  to  have 
reached  the  high  figure  of  11,700,  and  that,  too,  in 
less  than  three  months. 

The  number  of  arrivals  at  the  hotels  in  Dubuque, 
in  1855,  were  85,045.  The  amount  of  public  domain 
sold  at  the  Dubuque  Land  Office,  was  1,610,363 
acres.  Received  at  the  United  States  depository 
during  the  year,  $4,146,550.  Total  amount  of 
10 


110 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


eastern  exchange  sold  by  banking  houses  in  1855, 
$9,212,000.  There  are  nearly  two  hundred  citizens 
in  Dubuque  City,  whose  property  is  assessed  at 
over  $10,000;  thirty-seven  assessed  to  be  worth 
between  20,000  and  $30,000 ; eight  between  30,000 
and  $40,000 ; fifteen  between  50,000  and  $100,000 ; 
and  four  over  $100,000.  Who  can  predict  the 
future  wealth  of  Iowa  ? 

The  citizens  of  Dubuque  are  now  engaged,  in 
right  good  earnest,  in  extending  the  levee  out  to 
the  islands  in  front  of  the  city.  This  is  a work  of 
great  magnitude  and  immense  cost,  but  of  com- 
mensurate importance  and  value  to  the  city.  This 
city  possesses  some  natural  advantages,  which 
entitle  her  to  the  name  of  “ Key  City,”  and  which 
contribute  to  render  her  the  commercial  emporium 
of  northern  Iowa  and  southern  Minnesota. 

1st.  Her  mineral  resources  are  superior  to  those 
of  any  other  point  on  the  Mississippi,  and  will 
ever  continue  to  be,  probably ; and,  besides  the  ex- 
tensive and  annually  increasing  exports  of  lead,  as 
shown  above,  she  will  soon  ship  an  immense 
amount  of  this  mineral  in  manufactured  articles, 
when  her  white  and  red  lead  manufactories  and 
her  shot  towers  shall  be  in  operation. 

2d.  This  is  the  “ Key  City,”  the  most  northern 
city  on  the  Mississippi  having  railroad  connection 
with  the  East ; and  everything  passing  north,  west, 
or  northwest,  must  pass  through  Dubuque. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


Ill 


8cl.  There  is  no  other  point,  within  fifty  miles  or 
more  above,  with  an  eligible  site  for  a large  city, 
with  as  good  roads  into  the  interior ; and  prospects 
now  are  that  Dubuque  will  ever  continue  to  be  the 
largest  city  between  the  two  bridges  at  Rock 
Island  and  St.  Anthony’s  Falls. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


'trip  from  DUBUQUE  TO  OSAGE,  AND  RETURN. 

SCENERY  ON  THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. NEWLY 

DISCOVERED  MINERAL  REGION. LANSING,  WAW- 

KON,  DECORAH,  OSAGE,  ST.  CHARLES,  BRADFORD, 
WEST  UNION,  ELKADER,  GARNAVILLO,  GUTENBERG. 
GENERAL  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

The  tourist  who  would  visit  northern  Iowa 
should  take  one  of  the  regular  Galena  and  Min- 
nesota packets,  at  Galena  or  Dunleith,  and  register 
himself  for  Lansing,  one  hundred  miles  nortlwvest, 
or  for  Guttenburg  or  McGregor’s  Landing,  about 
fifty  miles  below.  If  there  is  a more  comfortable 
way  of  travelling  than  aboard  the  floating  palaces 
of  the  upper  Mississippi,  or  a more  grand  and  pic- 
turesque portion  of  country  to  be  seen  than  is  be- 
held on  this  route,  I have  thus  far  failed  to  find  it ; 
and  persons  who  have  travelled  extensively  on  both 
continents  represent  the  scenery  in  this  section  of 
country  as  far  superior,  in  point  of  magnificence 
and  grandeur,  to  even  that  of  the  far  famed  Rhine. 

The  hills  and  bluffs  and  slopes — now  precipi- 
tous and  rugged,  presenting  a castellated  front  of 
rock,  from  two  to  five  hundred  feet  high,  almost 

(112) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


113 


overhanging  the  water;  ageJn  sloping  gracefully 
clown  to  the  water’s  edge,  bedecked  here  and  there 
with  clusters  or  groves  of  small  oak  trees,  and 
flowers  of  almost  every  variety  and  hue — extend 
along  the  river  on  either  shore,  and  are  as  various 
as  they  are  numerous. 

After  a very  pleasant  trip  with  my  namesake, 
Capt.  J.  W.  Parker,  of  the  Golden  Era,  I landed 
at  Lansing.  The  first  sight  of  interest  that  greeted 
my  eye,  was  between  three  and  four  hundred 
hardy  Norwegians,  with  their  goods  and  chattels 
piled  up  on  the  wharf,  awaiting  a conveyance  to  the 
country.  As  near  as  I could  understand  them,  a 
large  colony  have  purchased  (through  their  agent)  a 
tract  of  land  a few  miles  west,  and  they  were  then 
on  their  way  to  their  new  home.  They  were  in  good 
health  and  excellent  spirits,  and  had  not  lost  one 
of  their  number  since  leaving  Norway.  From 
the  fact  that  these  immigrants  came  over  in  a 
steamship,  as  well  as  from  the  appearance  of  a 
small,  well-guarded  iron  chest  in  their  possession, 
it  may  be  inferred  they  are  wealthy  and  industrious 
people,  who  will  be  a great  accession  to  this  por- 
tion of  the  State. 

Lansing  is  the  most  important  town  in  the  State, 
above  Dubuque,  on  the  river.  It  contains  churches, 
a newspaper  office,  hotels,  stores,  &c.,  and  is  rapidly 
increasing ; and  will  eventually  become  a city  of 
note,  as  it  is  the  natural  landing  for  a large  section 
of  very  fertile  country,  which  is  being  rapidly  filled 
10-*= 


114 


IOV\^A  HANDBOOK, 


by  actual  settlers.  At  the  Lansing  House  you 
will  be  well  cared  for,  and  will  there  take  a stage 
for  the  interior.  Yes,  there  you  will  find  the  real, 
old-fashioned  stage-coach,  and  perchance  recognize, 
ere  you  return,  some  of  the  old  coaehes  which 
have  been  driven  west  by  the  locomotive,  and  in 
which  you  have  already  travelled,  in  the  eastern  or 
middle  States. 

What  an  “ institution  ” the  stage-coach  is,  to  a 
newly  settled  country,  and  what  a convenience  is 
the  accommodating  driver!  Our  load  embraced 
fifteen  passengers,  a large  rear  boot  full  of  baggage 
and  luggage,  while  the  front  boot  contained  mail- 
bags,  meal-bags,  dogs,  jugs,  and  what  not.  The 
road  from  Lansing  to  Decorah,  for  several  miles 
after  leaving  the  river,  winds  through  a beautiful 
valley;  and,  when  at  length  you  reach  the  table 
land,  the  scenery  is  most  beautiful, — we  might  say 
enchanting.  To  the  north,  beyond  the  valley  of 
the  Upper  Iowa  River,  are  the  fertile,  graceful  hills 
and  green  fields  of  Minnesota,  while  far  away  to 
the  south  the  landscape  is  checkered  with  prairies 
and  groves,  and  on  every  side  the  smoke  from  the 
humble  dwelling  of  the  settler  rises  in  swelling 
folds,  marking  the  spots  where  the  wanderers  from 
almost  every  State  and  every  country  in  Europe 
are  making  their  peaceful  homes.  In  a drive  of  fif- 
teen miles  or  less,  through  a beautiful  though  rough 
portion  of  country,  w^e  reached  Wawkon,  the 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


115 


county-seat,  a place  of  perhaps  300  inhabitants, 
in  the  midst  of  a good  farming  country. 

In  the  northern  part  of  this  county  a bed  of  lead 
ore  has  been  discovered,  b-om  which  we  are  told 
100,000  pounds  have  been  taken  out  by  Mr. 
Tichenor,  although  but  little  effort  has  been  made 
to  obtain  mineral,  as  yet,  most  of  the  time  having 
been  occupied  in  prospecting.  Two  men  from 
Dubuque  had  visited  the  diggings,  and  were  well 
convinced  of  their  proving  valuable,  and  have  de» 
termined  to  erect  a smelting  furnace  during  the 
summer. 

A few  miles  farther,  and  we  reach  Decorah,  the 
county-seat  of  V/innesheik  county,  one  of  the  most 
advantageously  located  interior  towns  in  the  State, 
containing  a population  of  about  500.  This  place 
is  situated  on  the  Iowa  Diver,  and  in  the  heart  of 
a beautiful  and  fertile  section  of  country.  Decorah 
has  a newspaper,  numerous  stores,  hotels,  &c. 
Some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  business  and 
immigration  on  this  route,  from  the  fact  that  the 
receipts  at  the  hotels  averaged  upwards  of  $60  a 
day  each,  in  June  last ; this,  however,  was  before 
the  removal  of  the  land  office  to  Osage. 

This  town  did  not  fairly  commence  growing  till 
three  years  ago.  From  the  Decorah  Depublican 
of  April  4th,  we  learn  that  it  then  contained  1,000 
inhabitants,  three  hundred  houses,  fifteen  stores,  five 
banking  houses,  twenty  land  agencies,  two  good 
hotels,  one  grist  and  two  saw-mills,  a daily  mail  to 


116 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


Dubuque  and  St.  Paul,  a steam  plough,  fanning-mill, 
and  agricultural  implement  shop,  together  with  al- 
most every;  appurtenance  of  a vigorous  civilization. 

We  would  express  our  indebtedness  to  H.  K. 
Averill,  Jr.,  Esq.,  surveyor  and  draughtsman,  of  this 
place,  for  numerous  elegant  maps  of  different 
localities,  and  important  items  of  information. 
Persons  wishing  maps  made  or  surveying  done  in 
northern  Iowa  will  find  Mr.  Averill  competent  and 
deserving. 

In  passing  through  this  county,  near  Wawkon, 
the  traveller  will  see  numerous  sink  holes,  which 
resemble  a large  bowl  set  in  the  ground,  with  the 
bottom  knocked  out.  This  indentation  is  from 
twenty  to  fifty  feet  across,  and  ten  to  twenty  feet 
in  depth  to  the  perpendicular  opening,  which  is 
said  to  be  sometimes  thirty  to  seventy-five  feet  in 
depth. 

Of  other  curiosities  in  this  county  may  be  men- 
tioned a stream  of  considerable  size,  which  sinks 
into  the  ground,  and  is  lost  sight  of  entirely.  In 
another  part  of  the  county.  Trout  Creek,  about  one- 
third  as  large  as  the  Upper  Iowa,  breaks  forth  in 
one  large  spring  from  the  foot  of  a perpendicular 
bluff;  and  two  miles  from  this  is  a three-story 
grist-mill,  situated  under  and  driven  by  a large 
spring,  gushing  from  a high  rock  bluff,  A\dth  fifty 
feet  fall  of  water.  These  last-named  springs  are 
near  Decorah. 

Thence  to  Osage  is  as  fine  a section  of  country 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


117 


as  can  be  found,  — good  land,  well  watered,  well 
timbered,  and  an  abundance  of  building  stone. 

Osage  is  a new  town,  less  than  tv/o  years  old, 
and  containing  about  1500  inhabitants;  a place  of 
great  thrift  and  enterprise,  which  is  shown  by 
the  citizens  having  secured  the  location  of  the 
county-seat,  and  the  removal  of  the  Tiukey  River 
land-office  to  their  town.  The  proprietors  offer 
great  inducements  to  persons  wishing  to  locate  in 
a new  town,  especially  mechanics  and  manufac- 
turers. Osage  contains  a well-conducted  news- 
paper, good  saw  and  grist-mills,  banking  houses, 
and  land  agencies,  stores,  and  other  business  houses 
and  residences  to  match. 

The  people  at  and  around  the  great  South  Bend 
of  the  Minnesota  River  are  looking  in  this  direction 
for  a railroad,  and  are  expecting  to  help  construct 
one  to  connect  with  whatever  company  shall  reach 
forth  the  longest  iron  arm  towards  them.  The  day 
is  not  distant  when  the  agricultural  resources  of 
this  country  must  have  an  outlet,  by  railroad ; and 
Mitchell  county  is  favorably  situated,  and  has  the 
proper  class  of  inhabitants,  to  insure  it  an  early 
eastern  railroad  connection. 

Passing  down  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Red 
Cedar,  we  next  reach  St.  Charles,  the  county-town 
of  Floyd  county.  Though  one  of  the  last  coun- 
ties surveyed,  Floyd  is  all  entered,  and  contains 
nearly  a dozen  towns  and  villages.  Floyd  county 
is  well  watered,  and  has  a good  supply  of  timber. 


118 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


Copper  ore  has  been  found  in  Floyd  county,  on 
the  Cedar  River.  More  is  thought  to  be  where 
that  came  from. 

Bradford,  the  county-seat  of  Chickasaw  county,  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Little 
Cedar,  a tributary  of  the  Red  Cedar,  about  one 
mile  from  their  junction  and  eighty  miles  from  the 
Mississippi.  Its  position  on  the  m.argin  of  the 
“ Upper  Big  Woods,”  the  largest  tract  of  timber  in 
northern  Iowa,  renders  Bradford  a favorable  loca- 
tion for  a manufacturing  town.  This  town  has 
two  steam  saw-mills,  two  water  do.,  one  shingle 
and  two  lath-mills,  two  hotels,  &c.  A newspaper 
is  much  needed  here,  also  a steam  flouring-mill. 
Bradford  has  a population  of  350.  Chickasaw 
county  was  organized  in  1853,  and  has  now  a pop- 
ulation of  2000.  The  Cedar,  the  Turkey,  and 
the  Wapsipinnicon  pass  through  this  county,  each 
affording  water  power  for  mill-sites,  and  an  abun- 
dance of  timber  along  their  banks. 

From  Bradford,  the  next  point  is  West  Union 
the  county-seat  of  Fayette.  This  town  is  advan- 
tageously located  in  the  midst  of  a good  commu- 
nity of  farmers,  and  has  a good  healthy  gi’owth. 
West  Union  has  a population  of  1500,  with  all 
the  various  business  houses  and  mechanic  shops 
usual  in  towns  of  its  size.  Fayette  county  is  well 
watered  and  heavily  timbered,  and  the  new-comer 
will  do  well  to  look  at  her  soil  and  study  her 
advantages.  In  this  county,  as  well  as  in  those 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


119 


adjoining,  the  traveller  will  find  much  to  admire 
and  to  wonder  at,  and  a hearty  welcome  among 
an  intelligent,  hospitable  people.  The  Fayette 
Pioneer,  published  by  our  old  friend  John  Gharky, 
is  the  most  valuable  “ institution  ” in  the  county, 
and  should  be  well  sustained.  We  clip  the  follow- 
ing from  that  paper : 

“ There  is  no  stronger  or  surer  evidence  of  the 
advancement  of  our  place,  than  the  increased  num- 
ber of  votes  polled  at  our  elections.  At  the  April 
election,  one  year  ago,  184  votes  were  cast  at  the 
town  election ; at  the  last  August  election,  219 ; 
and  at  the  late  election,  251.  Thus  it  is  shown 
that  our  march  is  onward.” 

Of  the  morals  of  the  place,  he  says : We  have 

now  lived  here  two  years  and  a half,  during  which 
time  we  have  seen  but  one  drunken  man.  No 
spuituous  liquor  is  sold  here,  except  by  the  author- 
ized agent,  for  mechanical,  medicinal,  and  sacra- 
mental purposes.  Gambling  is  neither  tolerated 
nor  practised,  and  is  an  evil  unknown  to  most  of 
our  citizens.  Neither  cards  or  any  device  for  gam- 
ing can  be  obtained  here.  A man  fight  has  never 
occurred  in  this  place,  to  our  knowledge ; neither 
has  any  one  been  sent  to  jail  during  our  residence 
here.  Very  few  lawsuits  occur,  and  our  lawyers 
gain  a living  by  acting  as  land  agents,  making  out 
deeds,  and  transacting  other  business  of  the  kind, 
and  not  by  prosecuting  and  clearing  criminals.  As 
a general  thing,  our  Sabbath  schools  and  churches 


120 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


are  well  attended,  and  no  very  bad  examples  are 
set  before  the  young.  Upon  the  whole,  we  will 
venture  to  say  that  as  good  order  prevails  in  West 
Union  as  in  any  other  western  town  of  its  size.” 

Clermont,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  county.,  has 
the  prospect  of  being  the  largest  town  in  it. 

Elkader,  the  present  county-seat  of  Clayton 
county,  is  the  next  town  of  importance.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  both  sides  of  the  Turkey  River,  ten  miles 
west  of  Garnavillo,  and  upon  a bench  of  land  de- 
signed by  nature  for  a town.  Elkader  has  peculiar 
and  natural  advantages  which  the  enterprise  and 
sagacity  of  her  citizens  have  not  failed  to  improve. 

There  is  a gigantic  flouring-mill  here,  owned  by 
Timothy  Davis,  Esq.,  and  which  is  a monument  to 
the  skill  and  wealth  of  its  proprietor.  There  are 
some  half-dozen  excellent  stores,  a hotel,  shops, 
school-houses,  etc.  The  site  of  Elkader  is  very 
beautiful,  and,  when  the  town  shall  have  spread 
over  the  high  table  land  which  is  designed  to  form 
the  principal  portion  of  the  place,  it  will  be  hard 
to  find  a handsomer  place.  Present  population 
500. 

Ten  miles  northwest  from  Gutenberg,  and  in 
the  heart  of  a prairie  as  beautiful  as  a garden,  lies 
Garnavillo,  a place  of  some  500  or  600  people, 
and  until  lately  the  county-seat.  It  wears  an  air 
of  health,  cleanliness,  and  contentment,  that  is  very 
charming,  and  seems  to  be  in  no  way  dispirited 
by  the  loss  of  the  seat  of  government. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


121 


There  seems  to  be  a never-ending  strife,  among 
the  larger  towns  in  the  northern  counties,  as  to 
which  shall  have  the  county-seat.  The  Cedar 
Rapids  Times  very  sensibly  remarks  upon  this  sub- 
ject : One  good  flouring-mill  is  worth  more  to 

any  village  than  all  the  county-seats  in  Iowa. 
The  county  business  calls  men  to  a -town  for  the 
transaction  of  a peculiar  class  of  business,  which 
usually  leaves  them  with  little  disposition,  and 
oftentimes  with  less  ability,  to  purchase  their  family 
supplies.  A commercial  and  manufacturing  town, 
on  the  contrary,  draws  such  funds  into  the  legiti- 
mate channels  of  trade,  and  deposits  wealth,  and 
that,  in  turn,  gives  influence  and  power.  Court- 
houses and  jails  are  but  the  monuments  of  man’s 
depravity,  while  the  hum  of  machinery  is  the  un- 
mistakable voice  of  progress,  and  aids  the  dawn 
of  that  period  when  all  shall  win  their  supply  by 
honest  toil,  and  plenty  smile  at  all  firesides.” 

Gutenberg  is  the  largest  town  in  the  county,  and 
the  river-landing  for  an  extensive  section  of  coun- 
try. The  present  population  is  1000;  nearly  all 
Germans  ^ — only  fifteen  or  twenty  Americans  in 
the  place,  I am  told,  and  one  of  these  few  Amer- 
icans is  mayor.  The  site  of  Gutenberg  is  very 
handsome,  strongly  resembling  that  of  Dubuque. 
Its  houses  are  large,  well  built,  and  for  the  most 
part  constructed  of  stone,  of  which  there  is  any 
quantity  close  at  hand.  There  is  a better  steam 
mill  there  than  exists  in  Dubuque,  and  some  of  its 
11 


122 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


buildings  would  do  honor  to  Main  street.  Business 
is  flourishing  — a number  of  new  houses  are  going 
up,  and  every  one  appears  to  be  making  money. 
All  over  the  county  we  heard  the  warmest  praises 
of  the  German  settlers.  The  prominent  American 
citizens  spoke  of  them  as  ornaments  in  every  way 
to  the  county,  and  extolled  glowingly  their  intelli- 
gence, their  industry,  their  patriotism,  and  the  great 
increase  of  wealth  which  they  produced. 

The  traveller  who  first  lands  in  Clayton  county, 
at  Gutenberg,  and  seeks  to  penetrate  into  its  inte- 
rior from  that  point,  at  first  encounters  nature  in  its 
rough  and  primitive  majesty.  He  ascends  a gigan- 
tic bluff,  step  by  step,  until  he  attains  a mountain 
elevation.  Then  at  his  feet  he  beholds  the  Missis- 
sippi, dotted  with  lovely  islands,  and  spariding  in 
the  sun,  rolling  on  its  waste  of  waters  to  the  sea. 
Before  him  spreads  the  forest,  as  it  was  a hundred 
years  ago,  beautiful  in  its  grandeur.  He  journeys 
through  it,  and  soon  smiling  farms  greet  him  from 
the  hilltops,  and  the  country  grows  less  rough. 
Five  miles  from  Gutenberg,  he  enters  upon  a 
most  beautiful  rolling  prairie,  which  extends  far  on 
either  hand  to  within  three  miles  of  Elkader.  This 
prairie  is  high,  and  is  broken  into  every  imaginable 
variety  of  hill  and  dale.  It  is  covered  with  farms, 
most  of  them  in  the  very  highest  state  of  cultiva- 
tion. The  other  portions  of  the  county  are  almost 
equally  beautiful,  and  there  is  scarcely  a foot  of 
it  but  is  susceptible  of  easy  cultivation.  The 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


123 


Turkey  River,  a most  beautiful  stream,  furnishing 
abundant  water  power,  runs  through  the  county 
diagonally,  from  its  northwest  to  its  southeast 
corner ; and  upon  its  banks,  and  those  of  its  tribu- 
taries, as  well  as  along  the  Mississippi,  which  forms 
the  eastern  boundary  of  the  county,  there  is  an 
inexhaustible  supply  of  timber. 

Communia,  some  six  or  seven  miles  south  of 
Elkader,  is  the  site  of  what  remains  of  the  some- 
what famous  “ Communia  Colony,”  an  association 
of  Germans  formed  years  since  upon  the  principle 
of  living  in  common.  They  have  a beautiful  place, 
and  it  is  under  the  highest  state  of  cultivation 
The  experiment  of  socialism,  however,  turned  out 
to  be  a failiwe,  and  great  have  been  the  troubles  of 
the  colony.  Many  of  its  members  have  left  it,  and 
those  who  remain  are  harassed  by  an  infinitude  of 
lawsuits  about  the  property,  which  is  now  of  great 
value. 

The  geologist,  mineralogist,  or  artist  will  find  in 
this  tour  one  of  the  most  productive  fields  of  re- 
search, and  one  possessing  more  magnificence  and 
beauty  of  scenery,  than  in  any  other  portion  of  the 
State.  His  attention  will  be  attracted  to  the  pecu- 
liar outline  of  hills  that  bound  the  prospect  on 
either  side  of  this  majestic  river,  and  the  perpen- 
dicular walls  of  rock  that  rise  out  from  the  grassy 
slope,  or  green  copsewood,  in  massive  cliffs,  and 
terrace  the  heights  as  with  uninterrupted  natural 
battlements.  This  scenery  characterizes  the  banks 


124 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


of  the  Mississippi  and  Turkey  Rivers ; and  at  some 
points  on  the  Turkey  and  Iowa  Rivers,  a hundred 
miles  from  the  Mississippi,  are  battlements  of  rock, 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height.  Along 
the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries, 
near  their  confluence,  the  surface  is  rather  broken 
and  too  uneven  for  farming  pmposes,  but  will 
afford  a pastoral  region  of  great  capabilities,  leav- 
ing little  to  be  desired  by  the  shepherd  and  stock 
farmer.  From  the  base  of  the  cliffs  there  often 
rise  copious  springs,  cool  and  clear,  which  not 
unfrequently  give  rise  to  small  streams  which  fur- 
nish abundance  of  delicious  trout.  The  sportsman 
will  find  the  rivers  well  stocked  with  bass,  carp, 
sunfish,  pickerel,  pike,  and  catfish,  and  the  prairies 
abounding  in  deer,  grouse,  pheasants,  and  partridges, 
while  wild  geese  and  ducks  frequent  the  sti’eams 
in  immense  flocks. 

The  elevated  lands  will  furnish  high,  dry  pasture- 
ground  for  “ the  cattle  upon  a thousand  hills,”  as 
well  as  for  the  shepherd’s  flock,  while  from  the  val- 
leys and  bottoms  may  be  gathered  grain  and  hay 
for  winter  fodder.  Farther  interior  are  found 
undulating  prairies,  interspersed  with  open  groves 
of  timber,  and  watered  with  pebbly  or  rock-bedded 
streams,  pure  and  transparent;  hills  of  moderate 
height  and  gentle  slope,  with  here  and  there  small 
lakes  as  clear  as  the  rivers,  some  skirted  wdth  tim- 
ber, and  some  with  banks  formed  by  the  green- 
sward of  the  open  prairie. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


125 


Ijead  ore  has  been  found  in  various  portions  of 
this  district.  In  his  Report  to  Congress,  made  six 
years  ago,  Owen  says:  “ Near  the  base  of  a bluff  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi,  some  ten  or  fifteen 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  Turkey  River,  and  just 
above  the  French  village,  from  seven  to  ten 
thousand  pounds  of  lead  ore  were  obtained  from 
openings  in  the  rock  by  Dr.  Andros.  More  or  less 
galena  is  found  here,  in  all  the  horizontal  openings, 
for  the  distance  of  half  a mile  to  a mile.”  Lead 
ore  has  been  found  in  considerable  quantities  in 
the  bluff  in  the  rear  of  Gutenberg. 

Less  than  ten  years  have  elapsed  since  this  sec- 
tion was  in  full  possession  of  the  Winnebago  In- 
dians. How  changed  the  scene!  No  longer  shall 
these  groves  and  plains  be  the  red  man’s  hunting- 
ground  ; no  longer  the  deep  ravines  serve  as  lurk- 
ing-places for  the  wily  foe,  nor  the  bluff-side  as  a 
battle-field  between  contending  tribes.  On  these 
peaceful  waters,  no  longer, 

“ With  tav/ny  limb, 

And  belt  and  beads  in  simliglit  glistening, 

Does  the  savage  urge  his  skilF,  like  a wild  bird  on  the  wing, 
******* 

Look  now  abroad  — another  race  has  filled 
These  populous  borders — wide  the  wood  recedes. 

And  towns  shoot  up,  and  fertile  realms  are  tilled ; 

The  land  is  full  of  harvest  and  green  weeds ; 

Streams  numberless,  that  many  a fountain  feed, 

Shine  disembowered,  and  give  to  sun  and  breeze 
Their  virgin  Avaters  : the  full  region  leads 
Ncav  colonies  forth,  that  tOAvard  the  Avestern  seas 
Spread,  like  a rapid  flame  among  the  autumnal  trees.” 

11* 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


FROM  COUNCIL  BLUFFS  TO  SIOUX  CITY. TOWNS  ON 

THE  UPPER  MISSOURI. SIOUX  CITY. FUTURE 

PROSPECTS  OF  WESTERN  IOWA. 

Having  spoken  at  length  of  Council  Bluffs  and 
Western  Iowa,  in  a previous  chapter,  I here  pre- 
sent the  particulars  of  a trip  up  the  IMissouri.  The 
first  point  of  interest  was  Florence,  of  which  so 
many  maps  are  seen  on  almost  every  thoroughfare. 
The  traveller  will  not  see  here  so  much  of  a town 
as  he  would  naturally  expect.  Ferryville,  in  Iowa, 
is  directly  opposite  this  place.  Americus  is  six 
miles  east,  and  in  the  valley  of  the  Big  Pigeon 
River,  on  the  road  between  Council  Bluffs  and 
Sioux  City.  The  largest  grove  of  timber  in  the 
county  is  near.  This  location  possesses  many 
superior  advantages  for  building  up  a populous 
town,  surrounded  as  it  is  by  an  excellent  and  fer- 
tile farming  region,  with  good  water,  fine  timber, 
limestone,  mill-sites,  &c. 

Fort  Calhoun,  the  county-seat  of  Washington 
county,  Nebraska,  is  what  is  known  as  the  original 
Council  Bluffs,  and  promises  to  be  quite  a town. 
He  Soto,  a short  distance  above,  is  situated  hand- 

(126) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


127 


somely  in  a cove,  half  surromided  by  a pretty  cres- 
centic bluff,  inside  of  which  are  numerous  cones 
rising  to  a convenient  and  suitable  height  above 
the  general  elevation  — handsome  places  for  resi- 
dences. The  landing  is  good,  timber  plenty,  a 
steam  saw-mili  nearly  completed ; and,  with  the 
start  which  it  has  already  got,  this  must  become  a 
flourishing  place. 

Cuming  City  and  Tekamah,  in  sight  from  the 
river,  are  prettydooldng  places. 

Decatur  (that  is  to  be)  is  a beautiful  situation 
for  a town,  just  outside  of  the  south  line  of  the 
Indian  Reserve,  on  a handsome  piece  of  table  land 
at  the  foot  of  Black  Bird  bluff;  has  a good  landing, 
is  on  the  railroad  line  of  the  forty-second  parallel, 
is  due  west  of  Ashton,  has  an  abundance  of  build- 
ing stone  and  timber  near  by,  is  now  being  laid 
out  in  town  lots,  and  is,  I am  told,  soon  to  be  lith- 
ographed and  made  ready  for  improvement.  Col. 
Sarpy  and  Stephen  Decatur  have  selected  this  as 
the  point,  and  will  soon  have  houses  and  stocks  of 
goods  here,  and  men  of  their  experience  and  ac- 
quaintance in  the  Y/est  will  not  begin  a town  and 
fail. 

Black  Bird  city,  at  the  mouth  of  a creek  bearing 
the  same  name,  in  Nebraska,  has  an  eligible  site, 
where  a number  of  gentlemen  settled  and  laid  out 
a town,  but  had  to  give  it  up  to  the  Indians  for  a 
Reserve.  They  considered  their  claim  unfairly 
jumped  by  the  Indians  and  their  agent ; but,  as  it 


128 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


was  but  a temporary  location,  they  yielded,  with 
the  determination,  however,  of  reclaiming  it  as 
soon  as  the  Indians  left  it.  The  Rev.  IVIr.  Hamil- 
ton has  taken  it  for  missionary  ground,  and  will,  it 
is  supposed,  get  another  mile  square,  similar  to  the 
one  at  Bellevue,  and  thus  cut  them  off  entirely. 

Omadi,  at  the  mouth  of  Omaha  creek  (Ne- 
braska), is  a most  thriving  and  prosperous  town, 
only  a few  weeks  old.  It  has  very  superior  advan- 
tages— water  power  of  Omaha  creek,  with  one 
first  rate  saw-mill  in  operation,  and  power  for  sev- 
eral more  within  two  miles ; a variety  of  the  best 
kind  of  building  stone,  sufficient  to  build  a city; 
abundance  of  good  black  walnut,  oak,  cotton-wood, 
and  other  varieties  of  timber  ; and  more  important 
still  is  the  excellence  of  the  country  around  for 
farming  purposes.  The  boat  is  discharging  at  this 
place  the  greater  part  of  her  cargo,  among  which  I 
notice  several  ready-framed  houses,  which  it  is 
claimed  are  much  cheaper  than  others,  and  can  be 
raised  in  a day,  ready  to  live  in. 

The  next  point  reached  in  Iowa  is  Sergeant’s 
Bluff  City,  a new  town,  that  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  bluff,  but  shows  still  better  on  paper.  In 
the  hands  of  other  proprietors  this  place  might  suc- 
ceed. The  bluff  from  which  this  town  derives  its 
name  is  three  miles  above,  where  Sergeant  Floyd 
was  interred  in  1804,  by  his  companions,  Lewis 
and  Clarke,  while  on  their  expedition  to  Oregon. 
The  main  force  of  the  current  strikes  the  foot  of 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


129 


this  perpendicular  bluff,  and  is  gradually  wearing 
it  away,  and  soon  the  remains  of  this  famed  explorer, 
after  quietly  reposing  in  a wilderness  grave  for 
fifty  “two  years,  must  topple  into  the  turbid  stream. 
This  should  not  be  permitted.  The  Christian  and 
fraternal  hand  should  now  exhume  the  remains 
from  their  present  perilous  situation,  and  inter  them 
in  some  permanent  and  suitable  place,  with  proper 
memorials. 

Six  miles  farther  brings  us  to  Sioux  City,  which, 
except  Council  Bluffs,  perhaps,  is  destined  to  be 
the  largest  city  above  the  Missouri  line.  This 
place  is  improving,  and,  anticipating  an  early  rail- 
road connection,  real  estate  sells  rapidly,  in  some 
instances  at  higher  prices  than  in  larger  towns  on 
the  Mississippi.  Nature  has  designed  this  point 
for  a town,  and  the  commercial  marts  of  the  coun- 
try demand  one.  When  the  two  or  three  railroads 
projected  to  this  point  shall  have  been  completed, 
one  of  which  they  anticipate  will  be  the  Great 
Pacific,  and  when  a respectable  appropriation  is 
made  for  clearing  out  the  snags  in  this  river  so  that 
boats  may  navigate  it  more  than  two  or  three 
months  of  the  twelve,  then,  or  even  long  before 
then,  you  will  see  here  a model  city.  We  are 
much  indebted  to  the  urbanity  and  politeness  of 
Samuel  T.  Davis,  Esq.,  attorney  and  land  agent 
of  this  city,  for  numerous  favors,  and  would  re- 
commend those  visiting  Sioux  City  to  give  him 
a call.  At  present  prices,  and  with  present  pros- 


130 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


pects,  I know  of  no  better  point  for  investment  on 
the  Missouri  Kiver.  A regulE^y  line  of  stages  has 
been  established  between  this  place  and  Dubuque. 
This  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  “ St.  Paul  and 
Sioux  City  United  States  Military  Poad,”  for  the 
construction  of  which  Congress  has  appropriated 
so  liberally.  This  road  is  completed  to  the  South 
Bend  of  the  Minnesota  or  St.  Peter’s  River,  and 
will  be  completed  to  the  Missouri,  probably,  this 
season. 

Since  Congress  granted  land  to  the  four  gi’eat 
trunk  railroads  across  the  State,  rendering  certain 
their  completion,  which  will  result  in  the  early 
development  of  western  Iowa,  the  people  have 
awakened  to  the  importance  of  informing  their 
friends  in  the  East  of  their  advantageous  location 
and  of  preparing  for  an  immense  immigration.  To 
this  end  many  farmers  will,  this  year,  carefully 
husband  their  bountiful  crops  for  the  incoming 
settlers,  instead  of  shipping  them  below  to  “ the  seat 
of  war.”  Those  who  have  eligible  town-sites  are 
also  preparing  to  make  the  most  of  them.  Next 
spring  will  show  a tremendous  rush  to  vrestern 
Iowa;  and,  certainly,  no  part  of  the  State  more 
richly  deserves  it ! 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  HER  TOWNS  AND  RAILROADS. 

As  regards  the  equal  distribution  of  prairie,  tim- 
ber,  and  water,  there  is  probably  no  county  in  the 
State  superior  to  Jackson.  The  timber  consists 
principally  of  white  oak,  black  walnut,  ash,  hickory, 
elm,  maple,  white  walnut,  and  bass-wood.  Water 
power  is  plentiful  for  manufacturing  purposes : 
upon  several  of  the  streams  are  already  erected 
flouring  and  saw-mills,  and  others  are  in  progress 
of  erection.  The  county  is  also  one  of  the  best 
for  agricultural  purposes  in  the  State,  and  second 
to  none  for  stock  raising.  The  soil  is  generally 
rich  and  fertile,  and  the  varying  heights  and  diversi- 
fied scenery  on  the  sloping  banks  of  its  numerous 
water-courses,  present  an  abundance  of  beautiful 
building  sites.  The  soil  in  the  valleys  is  always 
of  a rich  sandy  loam,  several  feet  in  depth,  and 
very  black ; the  ridges  are  generally  second  and  third 
rate  soil,  with  a subsoil  of  clay,  or  in  some  instances 
ferruginous  sand,  and  produce  fine  crops  of  wheat. 
Potatoes  and  other  root  crops,  as  well  as  vegetables 
and  vines,  all  flourish  luxuriantly.  The  rocks  of 
the  county  are  what  belong  to  the  “ upper  magne- 

(131) 


132 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


sian  limestone”  formation;  are  well  adapted  for 
building  purposes,  and  make  a superior  quality  of 
lime.  Iron  ore  is  found  in  various  parts  of  the 
county,  lying  loosely  on  the  smrface,  and  no  doubt, 
from  present  indications,  it  exists  in  large  masses. 
The  most  productive  beds  of  iron  in  the  State  are 
in  this  county.  “ Galena”  (lead  ore)  is  also  fre- 
quently picked  up  in  different  parts  of  the  county, 
and  some  mines  have  been  successfully  worked  in 
the  northwestern  section. 

Bellevue,  the  county-seat,  is  a thrifty  town,  and 
very  pleasantly  situated.  It  has  not  kept  up,  in 
its  growth,  with  many  of  its  neighbors  dming  the 
past  year  or  more,  but  with  its  present  contemplated 
raihoad  connections  it  bids  fair  to  grow  very  rapidly. 

Maquoketa  is  the  largest  town  in  the  county,  and 
improving  most  rapidly.  But  a few  months  wiU 
elapse  before  this  place  wiU  have  a direct  railroad 
connection,  through  Sabula  and  Freeport  with 
Bacine,  and  through  Lyons  with  Chicago.  Sur- 
rounded with  an  industrious  class  of  farmers,  and 
possessing  all  natural  elements,  there  seems  to 
be  nothing  to  hinder  this  from  becoming  a city  ere 
long.  The  Jackson  County  Sentinel  and  the  Ma- 
quoketa Excelsoir  are  each  published  here,  and 
both  well  sustained  and  ably  conducted.  The  main 
railroad  line  from  Sabula  to  Missouri,  and  the 
branch  line  from  Lyons,  intersecting  the  main  line 
at  Maquoketa,  have  each  a grant  of  land,  and  will, 
doubtless,  be  completed  at  the  earliest  practicable 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


133 


moment.  Sabula  is  “ looking  up,”  it  would  seem, 
and  must  become  the  river  town  of  the  county, 
when  the  trunk  line  of  railroad  has  its  river  termi- 
nus there. 

Jackson  county  has  heretofore  failed  to  receive 
the  attention  her  natural  advantages  entitle  her  to  ; 
yet,  now  and  then,  a settler  goes  there,  as  the  fol- 
lowing figures  will  show.  The  population  of  the 
county,  one  year  ago,  was,  as  near  as  could  be 
ascertained,  15,000,  while  now  it  is  nearly  25,000 ! 
This  county  is  well  supplied  with  schools.  A 
branch  of  the  State  Normal  School  is  located  at 
Andrew,  the  teachers  of  which  have  a regularly 
organized  association ; an  academy,  conducted  by 
accomplished  teachers  and  well  attended,  is  located 
at  Maquoketa,  and  common  schools  are  supported 
in  every  town  and  village. 

Churches  of  the  various  denominations  are  estab- 
lished in  each  town  in  the  county.  (For  names  of 
other  places  in  the  county,  see  post-office  list  in  last 
chapter.) 


12 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


PUBLIC  IMPROVEMENTS. THE  DES  MOINES  RIVER. 

RAILROADS  IN  lOAVA. 

Of  public  improvements  in  Iowa,  probably  — 
setting  aside  the  railroad — the  most  important  and 
extensive  are  those  now  in  progress  by  the  Des 
Moines  Navigation  and  Railroad  Company.  This 
company  was  organized  in  May,  1854,  with  a capi- 
tal of  $3,000,000.  They  hold  a grant  from  Con- 
gress, embracing  ail  the  alternate  sections  of  pub- 
lic lands  for  the  distance  of  five  miles  on  each  side 
of  the  Des  Moines  River,  consisting  of  about 
1,000,000  acres  of  the  best  land  in  the  State. 
They  have  also  the  right  to  collect  such  toll  and 
water  rents  as  they  may  deem  proper  for  the  term 
of  seventy-five  years.  The  improvement  of  the 
Des  Moines  River  is  to  be  effected  by  the  construc- 
tion of  slackwater  navigation,  from  the  IMississippi 
to  Demoine  City,  by  means  of  dams  and  locks, 
and  occasionally  by  short  canals,  parallel  with  but 
independent  of  the  river.  The  distance  between 
the  dams  will  be  about  seven  miles,  and  the  aver- 
age Hft  of  the  locks  is  ten  feet.  This  company 
have  entered  into  bonds  with  the  State,  that  the 

(134) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


135 


locks  and  dams  shall  be  completed  so  as  to  insure 
the  navigation  of  the  Des  Moines  River  from  the 
Mississippi  to  Fort  Des  Moines,  now  Demoine  City, 
a distance  of  about  two  hundred  miles,  by  the  1st 
of  July,  1858. 

It  is  probable  that  600,000  acres  of  the  choice 
lands  of  this  company  will  be  sold  during  the 
next  four  years,  at  about  eight  dollars  per  acre, 
one-fourth  down,  the  balance  in  ten  equal  annual 
payments.  This  company  have  also  a railroad  line 
along  the  Des  Moines  valley,  which  will  eventually 
extend  into  Minnesota.  Particulars  regarding  either 
branch  of  this  great  work  may  be  had  by  address- 
ing the  secretary  at  Demoine  City,  Iowa. 

From  the  tenor  of  the  Governor’s  message  on 
the  subject,  and  of  memorials  from  certain  mem- 
bers of  this  company,  it  is  to  be  inferred  that  the 
company’s  title  to  the  lands  they  advertise  is  in 
question ; hence,  those  who  think  of  purchasing 
of  this  company  should  act  cautiously,  and  thor- 
oughly examine  their  titles. 

The  improvement  of  the  Mississippi  rapids  is 
also  an  important  'work.  The  rapids  occur  in  the 
river,  and  are  twelve  miles  in  length,  terminating  at 
Keokuk  and  Davenport.  The  fall  on  the  lower 
rapids  is  twenty-four  feet,  and  on  the  upper  rapids 
about  sixteen  feet.  In  either  there  are  obstructions 
sufficient  at  times  to  check  navigation,  and  during 
low  water  to  entirely  prevent  the  progress  of  busi- 
ness. An  appropriation  of  $1,090,000  has  been 


136 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


made  by  Congress  for  excavating  the  channel  in 
these  rapids,  and  within  the  past  three  years  some 
progress  has  been  made  in  the  work.  At  the  last 
session  of  Congress  $200,000  was  appropriated  for 
the  improvement  of  the  lower  rapids. 

The  great  Mississippi  bridge,  though  not  a pub- 
lic work,  is  a public  highway,  and  may  be  noticed 
here.  It  connects  the  Chicago  and  Kock  Island 
and  the  Mississippi  and  IVIissouri  Railroads,  making 
one  continous  line  of  gauge,  without  interruption 
or  break,  from  Chicago  to  the  Missouri  River.  The 
cars  now  run  as  far  as  Iowa  City.  It  was  com- 
pleted in  April,  1856,  so  that  trains  run  over  the  river 
into  Iowa  City  without  change.  The  entire  length 
of  the  bridge  is  5832  feet,  consisting  of  five  spans  ; 
and  the  draw  over  the  main  channel  is  in  length 
1583  feet.  The  circular-shaped  draw  pier,  which 
stands  near  the  centre  of  the  channel,  is  forty  feet 
in  height,  forty-six  feet  in  diameter  at  the  founda- 
tion, and  thhty-seven  feet  at  the  top.  On  each 
side  is  a draw  pier  working  on  the  rotary  principle, 
allowing  in  all  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  clear  for 
the  passage  of  boats.  The  lower  bridge,  over  the 
arm  of  the  river  running  on  the  Illinois  shore,  has 
three  spans.  The  entire  cost  of  this  work  was 
$260,000. 

Railroads  in  Iowa. — There  is  no  State  in  the 
Union  where  so  many  miles  of  railroad  are  under 
contemplation  and  construction  as  in  Iowa,  and 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


137 


none  that  more  fully  justifies  these  enterprises. 
No  State  has  so  great  a proportion  of  fertile  soil, 
none  can  support  a more  dense  population,  nor 
is  there  one  that  is  being  peopled  and  cultivated 
more  rapidly  than  Iowa.  Already  has  she  placed 
the  early  adventurer  on  a throne  of  fortune,  thus 
amply  rewarding  his  courage.  At  this  day,  she 
points  to  still  loftier  thrones  and  richer  diadems, 
held  in  reserve  as  the  prizes  of  fearless  energy; 
or,  better  still,  she  throws  open  to  the  world  her  ex- 
haustless stores  of  wealth,  and  seems  to  say,  “ Be- 
hold your  reward!”  And,  as  the  multitudinous 
throngs  hasten  toward  these  goals  of  promise  — 
as  they  crowd  with  eager  steps,  and  work  with  un- 
tiring hands — they  find  that,  far  from  becoming 
drained,  her  resources  deepen  and  increase  in  pro- 
portion as  they  take  from  them ; not  merely  keep- 
ing pace  with  their  accumulating  wants,  but  ever 
exceeding  them.  It  is  even  as  the  province  of 
mind — the  realms  of  intellect — whose  boundaries 
still  widen,  and  whose  spheres  continue  to  expand, 
the  farther  they  are  explored. 

The  resom'ces  of  Iowa  are  yet  undeveloped, 
unknown.  True,  we  know  something  of  the  im- 
miense  veins  of  lead  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the 
State,  from  the  extensive  and  annually  increasing 
revenue  our  State  receives  for  its  exportation ; yet 
in  the  interior  of  Iowa  are  beds  of  various  minerals, 
of  incalculable  value,  the  extent  and  even  the 
varieties  of  which  are  unknown. 

12* 


138 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


From  geological  reports  and  personal  observa- 
tion, we  know  we  have  red  and  yellow  ochre,  iron 
ore,  signs  of  copper,  and  immense  beds  of  plaster ; 
yet  of  greater  present  and  future  value  and  im- 
portance to  the  State  are  the  vast  and  immeasur- 
able beds  of  bituminous  coal,  underlying  the  in- 
terior of  the  State,  covering  an  area  fully  half  its 
size,  and  larger  than  many  of  the  eastern  States. 
Who  can  calculate  the  benefits  that  will  result 
from  the  development  of  these  mineral  resources  ? 
or  even  guess  at  the  distribution  through  our  State 
of  “ that  invaluable  article,  that  warms  our  houses, 
that  drives  our  locomotives  and  steam  engines ; by 
which  we  navigate  our  rivers,  lakes,  and  oceans ; 
that  propels  the  machinery  by  which  we  weave 
our  fabrics ; that  reduces  our  iron,  by  which  we 
cultivate  our  soil,  and  carry  on  every  conceivable 
mechanical  operation ; that  refines  oxu  metals;  that 
contributes  to  the  production  of  both  the  necessa- 
ries and  luxuries  of  life,  and  by  which  we  transmit 
intelligence  with  the  swiftness  of  lightning  to  sta- 
tions the  most  remote ! ” This  mine  of  wealth  is 
about  being  opened  up  to  the  world.  We  already 
hear  the  champing  and  foaming  of  that  great  thing 
of  iron  and  fire,  with  sinews  of  brass  and  muscles 
of  steel,  whose  pathway  of  iron  is  the  emblem  and 
exponent  of  the  hour,  — the  noblest  couplet  of  the 
age,  binding  kingdoms,  and  empires,  and  zones. 
Already  he  stands  at  our  doors,  with  a long  train 
of  cars  from  the  East,  filled  with  the  hardy  sons  of 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


139 


toil,  who,  though  subjects  of  depression  and  disap- 
pointment there,  are  here  to  be  the  hope  and 
promise  of  Iowa.  To-morrow  shall  witness  the 
westward  strides  of  this  great  civilizer  across  our 
prairies  and  plains,  plunging,  like  the  thunder  of 
Jove,  through  slope  and  dell,  to  our  western  borders, 
forming  a nerve  of  quickest  sympathy,  increasing 
our  social  intercourse  and  commercial  relations, 
and  binding,  electrifying,  and  harmonizing  the  re- 
motest portions  of  our  great  State! 

Experiments  in  burning  coal  in  the  locomotives 
of  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  Company  have  re- 
cently been  made  with  great  success.  The  coal 
used  is  obtained  on  the  line  of  that  road,  where  it 
exists  in  great  abundance.  A number  of  experi- 
ments were  made  with  an  engine,  which  had  been 
altered  for  the  purpose.  The  portion  of  the  road 
used  was  between  Amboy  and  Wapella,  one  hun- 
dred and  nine  miles.  The  train  consisted  of  six- 
teen loaded  freight  cars,  and  the  coal  used  was  La 
Salle.  The  comparative  result  was  as  follows  : 

Wood,  5 cords,  at  $5.75  .....  $28.75 

Coal,  52  bushels,  at  15  cts.  . . . . . 7.80 

Saving’  with  coal,  .....  $20.95 

This  is  a very  gratifying  result,  and  the  import- 
ance of  this  fuel  question  can  scarcely  be  over- 
estimated. 

Below  will  be  found  the  names  of  the  principal 
railroads  completed,  also  those  in  progress  and  pro- 


140 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


jected;  and,  although  each  of  them  are  practicable 
routes  and  will  be  built,  probably,  within  a few 
years,  I cannot  speak  confidently  of  each  in  this 
edition,  not  knowing  the  financial  condition  of  the 
several  companies. 

Burlington  and  Missouri  River  Cedar  Rapids 
and  Muscatine,  Chicago,  Iowa,  and  Nebraska,! 
Dubuque  and  Pacific*!,  Dubuque  and  Bellevue, 
Dubuque  and  St.  Paul,  Iowa  Central  Air-Line  *, 
Keokuk,  Demoine  City,  and  Minnesota!,  Keokuk 
and  Montrose  or  Lower  Rapids!,  Keokuk,  Mount 
Pleasant  and  Muscatine  !,  Mississippi  and  Mis- 
souri*!, Muscatine  and  Oscaloosa!,  Philadelphia, 
Fort  Wayne  and  Platte  River  Air- Line. 

Herewith  is  presented  a synopsis  of  the  act  of 
Congress  granting  land  to  railroads  in  Iowa.  This 
act  sets  apart  lands  for  four  different  railroads, 
about  forty  miles  apart,  running  from  the  Missis- 
sippi to  the  Missouri  River,  thus  crossing  our  whole 
State  four  times  from  east  to  west,  and  averaging 
nearly  three  hundred  miles  each  in  length.  The 
following  is  its  estimate,  showing  the  quantity 
gTanted  which  would  accrue  for  each  road  to  the 
State,  allowing  that  there  would  be  unsold  lands 

*Each  of  these  roads  have  a grant  of  land  from  Congress^ -which 
renders  certain  their  completion  at  an  early  day. — See  Land  Bill  in 
this  chapter. 

t Under  contract  and  in  part  completed. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


141 


enough  within  the  prescribed  limits  of  fifteen 
miles  on  each  side  the  road  to  satisfy  the  grants : 


Routes.  Estimated  length  in  miles. 

Acres  granted , 

Dubuque  via  Fort  Dodge  to 

Sioux  City, 

295 

1,132,800 

Lyons  City,  via  Maquoketa, 
due  west  to  Missouri  River, 
Davenport,  via  Iowa  City  and 

325  ^ 

1,248,000 

Fort  Des  Moines,  to  Council 
Bluffs, 

290 

1,116,600 

Burlington,  west  to  moutli  of 

La  Platte  River, 

255 

979,200 

Total, 

1,165 

4,476,600 

Deduct  for  Des  Moines  River 

grant,  wliicli  crosses  four 
times,  10x4, 

40 

156,600 

1,125 

4,320,000 

It  is  not  probable,  however,  that  the  actual 
amount  realized  by  the  several  companies  will  ex- 
ceed one-half  the  above  quantity. 


Synopsis  of  the  Iowa  Land  Bill.  ^ — Sec.  1. 
Provides  that  alternate  sections  of  land,  designated 
by  odd  numbers,  six  sections  in  width,  on  each  side 
of  the  railroads  from  Burlington  to  a point  on  the 
Missouri  River,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Platte ; from 
Davenport,  via  Iowa  City  and  Fort  Des  Moines,  to 
Council  Bluffs;  from  Lyons,  northwesterly,  to  a 
point  of  intersection  with  the  main  line  of  the 
Iowa  Central  Air-Line  Railroad,  near  Maquoketa ; 
thence  on  said  main  line,  running  as  near  as  prac- 


142 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


ticable  to  the  forty-second  parallel  across  Iowa  to 
the  Missouri  River  ; and  from  Dubuque  to  a point 
on  the  Missouri  River  near  Sioux  City,  be  granted 
to  the  State  to  aid  in  the  construction  of  said  rail- 
roads. 

Sec.  2.  Provides  that  the  sections  and  parts  of 
sections  of  land  which,  by  such  grant,  shall  remain 
to  the  United  States,  within  six  miles  on  each  side 
of  said  roads,  shall  not  be  sold  for  less  than  double 
the  minimum  price  of  the  public  lands  when  sold ; 
nor  shall  any  of  said  lands  become  subject  to  pri- 
vate entry,  until  the  same  have  been  first  offered  at 
public  sale  at  the  increased  price. 

Sec.  3.  Provides  that  the  said  lands  hereby 
granted  to  the  said  State  shall  be  subject  to  the 
disposal  of  the  Legislature  thereof,  for  the  pur- 
poses aforesaid,  and  no  other;  and  the  said  rail- 
roads shall  be  and  remain  public  highways  for  the 
use  of  the  government  of  the  United  States,  free 
from  toll  or  other  charge  upon  the  transportatation 
of  any  property  or  troops  of  the  United  States. 

Sec.  4.  Provides  that  the  land  shall  not  be  sold 
any  faster  than  the  roads  are  completed ; and,  if 
any  of  the  roads  are  not  completed  within  ten 
years,  no  further  sale  shall  be  made,  and  the  lands 
unsold  shall  revert  to  the  United  States. 

Sec.  5.  Provides  that  the  United  States  mail 
shall  be  transported  over  said  roads,  under  the 
direction  of  the  Post  Office  Department,  at  such 
price  as  Congress  may  by  law  direct:  Provided^ 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


143 


that  until  such  price  is  fixed  by  law,  the  postmas- 
ter-general shall  have  the  power  to  determine  the 
same. 

At  a special  session  of  the  Iowa  Legislature, 
held  in  June,  this  grant  of  lands  was  accepted. 
The  bill  transfers  the  rights  vested  by  Congress  in 
the  State,  to  the  several  companies,  with  several 
conditions. 

1.  The  roads  must  be  completed  and  equipped 
for  seventy-five  miles  within  three  years  from  the 
1st  day  of  December  next,  and  thirty  miles  each 
year  thereafter,  and  completed  by  December  1, 
1866.  In  case  of  failure,  the  State  resumes  its 
rights  in  the  lands. 

2.  Persons  who  had  settled  and  improved  lands 
along  the  proposed  lines,  at  the  time  the  grant 
was  made,  are  to  be  secured  in  their  possessions, 
upon  presenting  proper  evidence  of  the  fact.  Not 
more  than  three  hundred  and  twenty  acres  is 
allowed  to  a settler,  and  he  is  to  pay  ^2.50  per  acre. 

8d.  The  company  must  signify  their  acceptance 
of  the  provisions  of  this  act  within  ninety  days 
after  its  passage. 

4th.  The  roads  must  be  definitely  fixed  and 
located  before  the  1st  of  April,  and  maps  and 
plots  filed  with  the  Governor. 

The  effect  of  this  land  grant  to  raihoads  in  Iowa 
is  unquestionably  a great  benefit  to  the  State. 
The  only  advantages  wanted  to  place  her  in  the 
front  rank  of  great  commercial,  agricultural,  and 


144 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


manufacturing  States,  was  the  construction  of 
three  or  four  trunk  railroads  through  the  State, 
from  east  to  west,  and  these  great  objects  are  now 
secure.  Congress  has  come  to  the  rescue,  and  by 
its  munificence  has  completed  the  chain  of  circum- 
stances which  establish  the  future  destiny  of  Iowa. 
With  the  speedy  prospect  of  the  construction  of 
these  roads,  Iowa  will  enter  upon  a career  of  pros- 
perity heretofore  unknown  in  her  history.  Though 
now  increasing  in  population  as  fast  as  any  State 
in  the  Union,  the  lack  of  railroad  facilities  has 
operated  as  a discouragement  to  the  settlement  of 
her  western  border.  With  fom*  roads,  about  equi- 
distant from  each  other,  traversing  the  State  from 
east  to  west,  bringing  the  Missouri  within  eight 
hours  of  the  Mississippi,  hardly  a quarter  section 
of  land  will  be  out  of  reach  of  a ready  market. 
Certainly  no  farm  will  be  more  than  one  day’s 
drive  from  one  or  the  other  of  these  great  thorough- 
fares. 

The  Chicago,  Iowa,  and  Nebraska  Railroad  is  rap- 
idly progressing.  It  was  commenced  last  spring, 
and  construction  trains  are  already  on  the  track,  and 
the  road  will  be  completed  to  Dewitt,  twenty  miles, 
this  season.  This  road  is  projected  to  run  up  the 
Cedar  VaUey,  through  the  counties  of  Benton, 
Black  Hawk,  Bremen,  Floyd,  and  Mitchell,  to 
the  south  bend  of  the  Minnesota,  connecting  in 
Mitchell  with  a road  from  St.  Paul,  also  starting 
with  a western  line  from  Cedar  Rapids  to  the 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


145 


Missouri.  The  Keokuk  and  Montrose  Kaikoad 
will  be  completed  and  running  around  the  lower 
rapids  this  fall.  The  Burlington  and  Missouri  Kail- 
road  is  now  completed  to,  or  near,  Mount  Pleasant, 
and  is  being  pushed  westward  with  all  possible 
dispatch. 

The  Keokuk,  Demoine  City,  and  Minnesota 
Valley  Railroad  is  contracted  to  be  completed 
from  Keokuk  to  Benton’s-port,  thirty-eight  miles, 
by  the  1st  of  January  next. 

The  Mississippi  and  Missouri  Railroad  has  been 
in  running  order  from  Davenport  and  from  Mus- 
catine to  Iowa  City,  since  the  1st  January. 

The  Muscatine  and  Oscaloosa  road  is  said  to 
be  completed  to  Fredonia,  on  the  Iowa  River,  west 
from  Muscatine  twenty  miles. 

The  Fort  Madison,  West  Point,  and  Bloomfield 
Railroad  is  said  to  have  received,  during  the  last 
days  of  Congress,  a grant  of  lands  for  its  construc- 
tion westward  to  Nebraska  City. 

13 


CHAPTER  XX. 


BEST  ROUTES  TO  AND  THROUGH  IOWA. 

Should  the  traveller  or  immigrant  wish  to  reach 
the  northern  portion  of  Iowa,  his  best  route  from  Chi- 
cago is  to  take  the  Galena  and  Chicago  Union 
Railroad  to  Dunleith,  Illinois ; thence,  if  he  desires 
to  go  farther  north,  the  regular  Galena,  Dunleith 
and  Minnesota  Packet  Company’s  boat,  in  the 
upper  Mississippi,  will  land  him  at  any  point  above 
(at  McGregor’s  Landing,  or  Lansing,  if  he  wishes 
to  go  into  Clayton  county),  where  stages  will  be 
in  connection  with  all  the  interior  towns. 

If  the  traveller  would  go  directly  west  from 
Dunleith,  he  will  cross  the  river  on  the  ferry  to 
Dubuque,  thence  proceed  by  stage  to  Fort  Dodge, 
or  even  to  Sioux  City  on  the  Missouri.  In  con- 
nection with  this  route  are  other  lines  diverging 
north  and  south.  Should  he  wish  to  visit  the  cen- 
tral portion  of  the  State,  he  can  take  the  Chicago, 
Fulton,  and  Iowa  line,  — entering  the  State  at 
Lyons  or  Clinton,  both  towns  being  connected  with 
Fulton  by  good  steam  ferry-boats ; thence  he  can 
reach  by  stage  any  interior  point,  daily  stages 
leaving  those  towns,  north,  south,  and  west,  with 

(146) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


147 


good  accomodations  for  travellers.  The  following 
places  are  in  connection  with  this  point : Dewitt, 
Tipton,  Maquoketa,  Iowa  City,  Cedar  Rapids, 
and  Cedar  Falls.  By  river,  any  point  above  or 
below  on  the  Mississippi  can  be  gained.  The 
large  upper  Mississippi  boats  run  regularly  from 
Fulton  to  St.  Paul  — at  least  two  boats  leaving 
daily.  The  connection  with  St.  Louis  below  is 
equally  good. 

Those  wishing  to  reach  Davenport,  and  towns  in 
its  rear,  wiU  take  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island 
Railroad.  They  will  cross  the  river  on  the  only 
railroad  bridge  crossing  the  Mississippi;  thence 
from  Davenport  to  Iowa  City  they  will  take  the 
Mississippi  and  Missouri  Railroads,  where  will  be 
found  stages  for  all  points.  At  Davenport,  packets 
may  be  taken  for  any  point  above  or  below.  The 
Iowa  State  Central  Committee,  for  the  benefit  of 
Free  Kansas,  set  forth  the  most  desirable  route 
through  that  State  as  follows  : Leaving  Iowa  City, 
proceed  to  Sigourney,  thence  to  Oscaloosa,  thence 
to  Knoxville,  thence  to  Indianola,  thence  to  Os- 
ceola, thence  to  Sydney,  thence  to  Quincy,  on  the 
Missouri  River,  eighty  miles  from  Topeka,  the 
capital  of  Kansas.  An  agent  has  been  through 
the  State  by  this  route,  and  the  citizens  have  ap- 
pointed active  committees.  The  inhabitants  on 
this  line  will  do  all  in  their  power  to  assist  immi- 
grants. The  distance  from  Iowa  City  to  Sydney, 
on  the  Missouri  River,  is  three  hundred  miles,  and 


148 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


the  cost  of  conveying  passengers  will  be  about  $25. 
The  “ Western  Stage  Company”  will  have  formed 
a new  Hne  of  coaches,  and  will  put  on  all  the  stock 
necessary  for  the  accommodation  of  every  immigrant 
who  may  come.  This  can  positively  be  relied  on* 

The  traveller  wishing  to  gain  the  southern  por- 
tion of  Iowa  will  take  the  Chicago  and  Burlington 
Railroad  to  Burlington,  Iowa ; thence  by  railroad 
to  New  London,  thence  by  good  stage  coaches 
to  Mount  Pleasant,  Ottumwa,  Chariton,  Osceola, to 
Nebraska  City.  This  route  is,  perhaps,  the  best 
one  through  Iowa  to  Southern  Nebraska  and 
Kansas.  Burlington  has  every  facility  for  forward- 
ing the  traveller  on  his  way,  being  situated  in  the 
best  settled  portion  of  the  State.  It  is  easier  for 
those  who  wish  to  reach  any  inland  point  to  get  a 
conveyance,  for  goods  or  passengers,  than  at  many 
points  where  there  are  fewer  teams  engaged  in  such 
business. 

Persons  wishing  to  go  to  western  Iowa  may 
take  a steamboat  at  St.  Louis  for  any  point  in 
Kansas,  Nebraska,  or  Iowa — there  being  a regular 
line  of  boats  running  between  Council  Bluffs  and 
St.  Louis ; or  they  may  take  stages  at  Dubuque, 
Clinton,  Iowa  City,  or  Mount  Pleasant,  a continu- 
ous line  of  railroad  being  established  to  each  of 
these  points. 

Immigration  into  Ioava. — It  has  been  said  that 
the  grant  of  lands  to  Iowa  railroads  would  take 
up  so  much  of  the  vacant  public  lands,  that  the 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


149 


tide  of  emigration  would  be  materially  checked. 
This,  I believe,  has  neither  had  nor  will  have  that 
effect.  The  following  articles,  from  Iowa  papers, 
will  give  the  reader  some  idea  of  the  opinions  of 
the  press  in  Iowa  on  this  subject : 

“ The  most  profound  ignorance  appears  to  exist 
in  the  minds  of  many  persons  with  regard  to  the 
effect  the  passage  of  the  Iowa  Land  Bill  will  have 
upon  immigration  into  this  State.  Comparatively 
few  of  the  immigrants  to  Iowa  locate  upon  lands 
obtained  directly  from  the  government.  During 
the  last  year,  speculators  have  visited  us  and  en- 
tered their  thousands  and  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  acres  of  public  lands.  These  they  have  sold  to 
men  in  the  East,  the  actual  settlers,  who  are  emi- 
grating in  large  bodies  to  take  possession  of  them. 

“ So  far  from  speculators  being  a drawback  to 
the  settlement  of  a new  country,  they  are  the  very 
men  who  contribute  most  to  the  rapidity  of  its  set- 
tlement. Lands  would  be  idle  and  unimproved 
for  years,  were  it  not  for  this  class  of  men.  They 
come  out  here  and  purchase  wild  lands  in  vast 
bodies,  and  then  make  a business  of  inducing 
farmers  and  others  in  the  East  to  emigrate  hither 
and  cultivate  them.  The  Iowa  Land  Bill  has  taken 
up  but  comparatively  few  of  the  public  lands  in 
our  State.  The  land  offices,  in  those  districts 
where  the  largest  bodies  are  located,  have  not  been 
closed;  hence,  those  wishing  to  enter  lands  still 
have  the  opportunity.  Speculators  hold  vast  quan- 
ta* 


150 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


titles  of  the  public  lands  in  Iowa,  and  it  will  still 
be  to  their  interest  to  dispose  of  them,  so  that  we 
cannot  perceive  that,  even  were  all  the  land  offices 
in  Iowa  to  be  closed,  it  would  have  any  apparent 
effect  upon  the  immigration  to  this  State.”  — Da~ 
venport  Gazette, 

The  following  will  show  that  this  has  been  so  : 

“ Yesterday  morning  there  was  an  immense 
crowd  of  passengers  at  the  depot,  en  route  for 
Iowa  City.  As  they  passed  up  Brady  street,  the 
number  was  so  large  that  the  procession  might 
have  been  denominated  an  invading  army.  Truly 
Iowa  is  being  invaded.  Farmers  are  coming  in, 
armed  with  implements  for  a pitched  battle  with 
the  soil  of  Iowa.  Mechanics  come  pouring  in, 
from  all  quarters,  armed  and  equipped  for  a long 
and  active  service,  in  erecting  mills,  manufactories, 
stores,  dwellings,  etc.,  merchants  with  goods,  and 
capitalists  with  the  ‘rocks.’  Verily,  our  State  is 
becoming  the  frontier  quarters  of  the  army  of  oc- 
cupation.”-—Gazette^  May  10. 

“ While  in  Iowa  City,  a few  days  ago,  we  were 
perfectly  astonished  at  the  rush  west.  The  railroad 
from  Davenport  to  Iowa  City  is  strained  to  its  ut- 
most capacity  to  do  the  work  required.  The  freight 
and  travel  far  exceed  the  anticipations  of  the  most 
sanguine.  From  tliree  to  four  hundred  passengers 
arrive  at  Iowa  City  daily,  two  trains  a day  each 
way.  When  coming  down  from  Iowa  City  to 
Davenport,  we  met,  in  the  morning,  a train  of  five 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


151 


passenger-cars,  all  full,  with  persons  on  the  look-out 
for  homes  in  the  AVest.” — Mount  Pleasant  Ob- 
server. 

“ During  the  forty-eight  hours  ending  Saturday 
morning,  the  eight  trains  on  the  Michigan  Southern 
road  brought  eighty-one  coaches,  containing  4,000 
passengers;  and  in  the  same  time  the  six  trains 
over  the  Michigan  Central  took  into  that  city  sixty- 
three  coaches,  containing  4,662  passengers.  Nearly 
9,000  passengers  arrived  in  two  days.” — Chicago 
Pressj  June,  1854. 

“Every  train  arriving  westward — every  train 
especially  entering  Chicago,  as  a distributing  point 

— seemed  crowded  with  men,  women,  and  children, 
generally  in  apparent  comfortable  circumstances, 
seeking  homes  in  the  West.  These  emigrants 
seemed  principally  from  the  Eastern  States,  al- 
though many  were  from  the  more  thiddy  settled 
Western  States.  Of  this  great  mass,  so  far  as 
we  could  ascertain,  and  we  made  diligent  inqui- 
ries, but  comparatively  few  were  going  to  Kan- 
sas and  Nebraska.  They  were  acting  much  more 
wisely — going  to  the  unsurpassed  regions  of  loAva.” 

— Evansville  Journal. 

“ Mr.  McGregor  has  three  boats  at  work  on  his 
ferries,  and  by  the  most  indefatigable  industry  is 
enabled  to  keep  the  eastern  shore  clear  of  the  im- 
mense number  of  persons  and  teams  that  cross 
daily.” — Herald. 


152 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


The  North-West^  published  at  Dubuque,  says: 
‘‘We  are  informed  that  instructions  have  been  re- 
ceived from  the  Commissioner  of  the  General 
Land  Office  to  permit  pre-emptions  to  be  made  upon 
the  odd-numbered  as  well  as  the  even-numbered  sec- 
tions of  land  withdrawn  from  market^  by  virtue  of 
the  act  of  Congress  making  grants  of  land  to  the 
State  of  Iowa  for  the  construction  of  railroads. 
The  order  of  the  commissioner,  withdrawing  the 
lands  from  market,  said  nothing  about  pre-emptions, 
and  we  presumed  that  the  act  excluded  them,  as 
well  as  ordinary  purchasers.  The  officers  refused 
to  receive  pre-emptions  within  the  townships  with- 
drawn ; but  the  recent  orders  permit  them  on  this 
land  until  the  road  is  definitely  fixed.  This  fact — 
if  made  known  through  the  public  journals — would 
turn  a large  emigration  into  this  State,  which  is 
now  going  to  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  Kansas,  and 
Nebraska.” 

The  number  of  passengers  over  the  Chicago 
and  Burlington  Railroad,  in  January,  was  2,767  ; 
in  February,  2,251 ; in  March,  4,339 ; in  April,  5,278. 
The  number  of  passengers  over  the  Galena  and 
Chicago  Union  Railroad  to  Galena  and  points 
beyond,  in  April,  was  8,250 ; over  the  Chicago,  Ful- 
ton, and  Iowa  Line  there  were,  in  April,  1,950. 
These  figures  were  supplied  us  by  the  officers  of 
the  respective  roads,  and  may  therefore  be  impli- 
citly relied  upon. 


OWA  HANDBOOK. 


153 


A Word  to  Capitalists.— - Here,  as  elsewhere, 
it  ‘‘  takes  money  to  make  money,”  but  not  so  much 
of  it.  Eastern  men,  who  have  been  operating  in 
city  and  village  property,  in  different  portions  of 
the  State,  inform  me  that  they  can  make  fifty  per 
cent  more  money  here,  with  the  same  investment, 
than  they  can  at  the  East.  To  illustrate  : a gen- 
tleman of  Clinton  county  invested  $1,500,  last 
July,  in  town  lots  and  suburban  property,  from 
which,  with  some  other  real  estate  transactions,  he 
has  realized  the  snug  sum  of  $50,000,  in  the  short 
period  of  nine  months.  At  least  one-third  of  this 
time,  business  in  land  was  suspended,  on  account 
of  extreme  cold  weather. 

I know  individuals  and  associations,  who  have 
erected  buddings  for  sale  or  rent,  and  have  made  a 
profit  of  two  hundred  per  cent  upon  the  capital 
invested.  There  is  scarce  a river,  town,  or  city  in 
the  State  where  buildings  are  not  rented  for  stores 
and  dwellings,  for  from  one-third  to  one-half  their 
original  cost  per  annum ; and,  in  a few  instances,  I 
know  of  buildings  having  paid  for  themselves  with 
the  first  year’s  rent ! Companies  or  individuals  can 
purchase  lots  in  almost  any  town  in  the  State, 
build  upon  them,  and  pay  for  the  lots  when  they 
make  sale  of  the  property.  The  reason  of  this  is, 
a lot  with  a building  is  much  more  desirable  than 
one  without,  such  is  the  demand  for  houses.  Build- 
ings of  almost  any  sort,  shape,  or  size,  find  ready 
sale  or  rental.  Capitalists  cannot  fail  in  making 


154 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


good  investments,  by  building  houses  to  sell  or 
rent. 

Mechanics  Wanted  in  Iowa.  — Our  friend  Mr. 
Scripps,  of  the  Chicago  Press,  speaks  thus  of  the 
demands  of  the  West: 

‘‘  The  whole  country  west,  north,  and  south  of  us 
is  also  filling  up  very  rapidly  with  an  intelligent, 
enterprising,  and  highly  prosperous  population,  and 
thousands  of  all  kinds  of  mechanics  will  be  wanted 
to  build  up  the  cities  on  aU  sides  of  us.  The  rapid- 
ity with  which  the  resources  of  this  vast  fertile 
country  are  being  developed  is  also  a guarantee 
that  Chicago  will  continue  to  grow  apace,  at  least, 
during  the  lifetime  of  the  present  generation. 

“We  say,  therefore,  to  Eastern  mechanics,  come 
West.  Fortunes,  and  certainly  a competence,  are 
within  your  grasp.  There  is  work  enough  and 
room  enough  — always  excepting  house-room  — 
for  all  who  come.  And,  as  to  the  matter  of  house- 
room,  that  is  exactly  what  they  are  needed  to  pro- 
vide. The  impression  prevails  to  some  extent  at 
the  East,  that  the  opportunities  for  making  money 
at  the  West  are  nearly  all  past,  and  only  here  and 
there  a fortunate  individual  can  hope  for  any 
considerable  success.  Exactly  the  reverse  is  true. 
There  never  was  a time  when  judicious  investments 
and  earnest,  persevering  toil  were  more  sure  of  an 
ample  reward.  Let  every  enterprising  mechanic, 
therefore,  who  wishes  a wide  field  for  his  exertions, 
make  his  home  in  the  great  and  growing  West.” 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


155 


House-builders,  in  particular,  are  wanted.  Any 
thing  that  adds  to  the  homes  of  the  West  is  in 
demand.  Lumber,  stone,  brick,  hardware  establish- 
ments, and  particularly  capital,  and  men  who  will 
invest  it  in  houses,  are  required.  No  investment 
returns  as  high  a per  centage  as  houses.  Dwellings 
and  stores,  costing  not  more  than  $400  to  $600, 
will  rent,  when  completed,  for  $150  to  $300  per 
year,  — thus  paying  for  the  investment  within  two 
years.  One  of  the  greatest  drawbacks  to  the 
growth  of  our  Western  towns  is  the  want  of  houses 
for  those  who  came  among  us  to  settle.  Good 
mechanics  command  from  $1.75  to  $3  per  day, 
and  in  most  places  can  find  work  the  year  through 
at  these  prices. 

Below  will  be  found  a statement  of  passengers 
over  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island  Railroad,  from 
January  1st  to  August  1st,  1856 : 


January 

Whole  number 
of  Passengers. 

. 19,493 

Passengers 
going  East. 

9,316 

Passengers 
going  West. 

10,176 

February 

18,971 

9,306 

9,664 

March 

. 26,770 

12,436 

14,334 

April 

32,211 

12,839 

19,372 

May 

. 35,663 

14,802 

20,861 

June 

33,439 

15,360 

18,078 

July 

, 33,233 

14,786 

18,447 

This  is  but  one  of  the  four  roads  reaching  the 
Mississippi,  along  the  Iowa  line ; the  amount  of 
passenger  business  on  this  road,  however,  exceeds 
that  on  either  of  the  other  three.  Another  proof  of 


156 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


the  rapid  growth  of  the  West  may  be  seen  in  the 
increasing  business  of  the  railroads. 

The  earnings  of  the  Chicago  and  Burlington 
Railroad  in  July,  1856,  were  ^176,282.99;  earn- 
ings same  month  last  year  were  $127,593.69,  mak- 
ing an  increase  over  last  year  of  $48,689.30.  The 
earnings  of  this  road — 130  miles-— in  1856  (thus 
far),  are  per  mile  $1,032.41 ; earnings  of  the  same 
last  year  per  mile,  $694.95 ; gain  per  mile  in  1856, 
$337.46. 

The  same  calculation  holds  good  with  the 
Galena  and  Chicago  Union  Railroad.  The  in- 
crease in  gross  earnings  in  the  past  fiscal  year  — 
ending  April  30,  1856 — ^was  $803,623,  equal  to 
about  fifty-four  per  cent  on  the  gross  earnings  of 
the  previous  year,  while  the  number  of  passengers 
transported  is  immense.  I regret  that  the  size  of 
this  work  will  not  permit  a more  full  statement  of 
the  business  of  each  of  these  roads ; but  the  above 
will  suffice. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  AGRICULTURE.- FENCING. 

Wheat  and  corn  are  the  staple  products  of  Iowa. 
The  soil  is  equally  well  adapted  to  all  the  crops  com- 
mon to  the  temperate  zone.  Tobacco  is  grown  in 
western  Iowa  to  some  extent,  and  sweet  potatoes 
are  a certain  crop,  as  high  up  as  Clinton  county. 
There  is  not,  at  present,  half  enough  apples  grown 
in  Iowa  to  supply  the  demand ; but  better  apples 
than  are  here  produced  are  not  found  in  the  world, 
as  the  following  testimony,  from  the  judges  at  the 
Horticultm’al  Convention,  will  show : 

“ The  fruits  exhibited  elicited  the  admiration  of 
every  spectator.  But  the  greatest  astonishment 
was  visible  upon  the  countenances  of  every  one 
when  they  saw  the  difference  between  Iowa  and 
Eastern  fruit  of  the  same  variety  — Iowa  bearing 
off  the  palm.  The  Eastern  fruit-growers  ‘came 
down’  at  once,  and  acknowledged  being  beat. 
Why,  sir,  there  were  Iowa  apples  almost  as  large 
as  your  head,  and  right  by  their  side  were  apples 
from  New  York  of  the  same  kind,  not  larger  than 
a common  walnut.  The  Eastern  nurserymen  were 
so  much  beaten  that  they  urged  that  the  Iowa 
14  (157) 


158 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


apples  were  ‘ two-year  olds/  while  theirs  were  but 
‘ yearlings.’  This  exhibition  will  result  in  great 
good,  and  give  Iowa  a fame  abroad,  as  one  of  the 
greatest  fruit-growing  States  in  the  Union ; a fame 
that  she  will  not  suffer  to  die  out,  or  be  taken  from 
her  hereafter.” 

The  peaches  are  very  fine  ; but  in  the  northern 
and  central  portion  of  the  State  they  are  not  a cer- 
tain crop.  When,  however,  frosts  and  the  hard 
winters  allow  them  to  come  on  in  the  spring,  the 
growth  and  quality  are  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  any 
grown  elsewhere. 

On  the  matter  of  fencing,  it  may  be  said  that  in 
very  many  places  — we  will  say,  one-third  of  the 
farms  in  Iowa  — there  is  timber  ready  at  hand  to 
fence ; and  where  there  is  not,  it  has  been  esti- 
mated, by  those  who  have  experience  in  the  mat- 
ter, that  common  board  fences  are  the  cheapest  and 
the  best  for  temporary  purposes.  The  fencing 
material  for  the  prairies  of  the  West  is  found  in 
the  osage  orange  hedge,  which,  by  actual  experi- 
ment, has  been  decided  perfectly  practicable,  and 
besides  makes  a safe  and  beautiful  fence. 

I find  the  following  in  one  of  the  agricultural 
journals,  which,  from  several  years  observation,  ap- 
pears in  all  particulars  true : 

“ Cost  of  openinu  a Farm  in  Iowa.  — The 
inquiry  is  often  made  as  to  the  amount  of  means 
requisite  for  opening  a farm  in  Iowa.  It  must  be 
apparent  that  this  must  depend  upon  the  size,  con- 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


159 


veniences,  and  comforts  provided,  and  the  plan  of 
farming  adopted. 

“ It  may  be  first  remarked,  that  good  clay  for 
bricks  is  found  in  almost  all  localities  here,  by 
removing  the  prairie  soil,  while  in  and  around  the 
surface ; so  that  brick  can  be  obtained  as  cheaply 
as  in  any  other  part  of  the  country.  There  is  also 
good  limestone  rock  in  abundance  in  the  banks  of 
nearly  all  the  streams,  which  is  easily  quarried,  and 
the  cost  of  such  material  is  moderate,  so  that  build- 
ing can  be  done  here  nearly  as  cheap  as  in  the 
Eastern  States.  It  is  most  usual,  however  (being 
generally  the  most  convenient),  for  settlers  to  erect 
frame  houses  for  themselves,  which  can  be  built  at 
the  following  rates  : 

“ A house  twenty  feet  by  twenty-four,  one  story 
high,  plainly  and  comfortably  finished,  divided  into 
four  rooms,  plastered  and  painted,  can  be  built  for 
from  $300  to  $350,  which  is  about  the  cheapest 
house  that  can  be  furnished,  that  will  comfortably 
accommodate  a small  family  ; although  one  a story 
and  a half  high,  twenty  by  twenty-eight  feet, 
divided  into  three  rooms  above  and  two  below, 
with  pantry,  plastered  and  painted  throughout,  and 
ready  for  use,  would  cost  about  $450  to  $500. 
There  are  parties  who  are  willing  to  contract  to 
furnish  all  materials  and  fully  complete  houses  of 
this  description  at  the  prices  named,  in  from  four 
to  six  weeks  — houses  of  larger  dimensions  at  pro- 
portionate rates  and  length  of  time. 


IGO 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


“ The  digging  and  stoning  of  a well,  in  ordinary- 
situations,  will  cost  from  $50  to  $66.  It  wiU 
require  about  $100  to  erect  the  necessary  sheds 
and  stables  for  cattle  and  horses.  Hay  and  grain 
are  usually  stacked  out,  and  are  as  well  preserved 
as  if  housed.  Good  cows  can  be  bought  for  about 
$30.  A yoke  of  good  working  oxen  is  worth  from 
$80  to  $100.  Good  'farm  horses  are  worth  from 
$100  to  $125.  Harness  costs  about  the  same  here 
as  elsewhere.  A proper  kind  of  a breaking  plough 
costs  $16.  Common  stirring  ploughs  $8  to  $10 
each.  A reaping  machine  costs  about  $175,  and 
the  same  machine  may  be  readily  adapted  to  mow- 
ing. Threshing  machines  can  be  bought  at  from 
$175  to  $200.  It  is  customary  for  a number  of 
farmers  to  join  together  in  purchasing  these  expen- 
sive machines,  and  work  them  in  common,  in  cut- 
ting and  threshing  their  several  crops  of  wheat  and 
oats,  as  well  as  for  cutting  their  hay.  Other  neces- 
sary farming  utensils  are  procured  at  prices  about 
the  same  as  in  the  East. 

“ The  cost  of  fencing  will,  of  course,  depend 
upon  the  amount.  The  usual  mode  employed  is 
with  boards  or  rails,  until  the  hedge  is  grown. 
Two  boards  will  generally  answer  against  cattle, 
hogs  not  being  allowed  to  run  at  large.  As  it  is 
customary  in  many  places  upon  our  large  prairies 
for  farmers,  by  common  consent,  to  inclose  all  their 
stock  for  the  first  few  years  (a  few  acres  only  being 
required  for  this  purpose),  but  a very  small  amount 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


161 


of  fencing  is  necessary  until  the  farmer  can  either 
raise  his  hedges,  or  at  least  have  grain  for  market, 
when  he  can  get  his  lumber  for  fencing  at  the  rail- 
road stations,  with  but  little  loss  of  time  or  incon- 
venience. 

If  one  hundred  acres  of  ground  be  taken  up 
and  farmed  after  the  manner  heretofore  described, 
a house  of  the  larger  size  would  be  required ; four 
horses ; two  breaking  ploughs  ; two  common  stirring 
ploughs ; two  cultivators,  and  two  harrows,  and 
other  farming  utensils  in  the  same  proportion. 
But,  if  only  eighty  acres  are  farmed,  a house  of 
the  smaller  size  would  answer ; one  span  of  horses, 
and  farming  implements  in  proportion. 

“ The  foregoing  statements,  touching  the  subject 
of  farming,  have  been  made  with  strict  reference  to 
facts  which  have  presented  themselves  to  a mind 
having  abundant  opportunities  for  observation  dur- 
ing five  years  past.  The  majority  of  our  most 
judicious  and  industrious  farmers  would,  doubt- 
less, consider  the  estimates  quite  too  low.  But  the 
object  has  been  to  show  what  are  the  reliable  results, 
taking  one  year  with  another,  under  ordinary  cir- 
cumstances, not  merely  to  give  the  limit  of  possi- 
bilities.” 

Wool-Growing  and  Stock-Raising.  — The 
Dairy  Business. — On  this  subject,  I give  an  arti- 
cle extracted  from  an  address  delivered  by  J.  B. 
Grinnell,  Esq.,  of  Jasper  county,  before  the  Agri- 
14* 


1G2 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


cultural  Society  in  that  place,  as  embodying  all 
that  need  be  said  in  this  brief  work : 

“ It  should  be  our  settled  policy  to  furnish  for 
the  market  those  products  which  can  be  carried 
there  at  the  least  possible  expense.  On  the  basis 
of  this  principle  in  domestic  economy,  wool-grow- 
ing stands  at  the  head  of  all  enterprises.  The  de- 
mand for  wool  is  not  capricious ; the  total  annual 
consumption  keeping  pace  with  the  increase  in  our 
population.  It  may  be  transported  at  any  season 
of  the  year,  by  a northern  or  southern  route,  and, 
not  being  of  a perishable  nature,  a late  market 
does  not  diminish  its  value. 

“ A common  grade  of  wool  is  now  grown  with 
profit  in  New  York  and  New  England,  where  the 
winters  are  longer  by  several  weeks  than  here, 
and  where  the  farms  are  worth  from  thirty  to  fifty 
dollars  per  acre. 

“ Let  facts  and  figures  set  this  branch  of  industry 
in  its  proper  relation.  At  the  East,  the  ranges  for 
pasture  are  cut  off  and  the  wool-grower  must  be 
the  proprietor  of  the  soil.  Here  in  Jasper  county, 
with  its  seventy  thousand  acres,  there  are,  at  a low 
estimate,  and  will  be  for  years  to  come,  forty 
thousand  acres,  a large  portion  of  which  is  owned 
by  non-residents,  that  would  afford  ample  and  the 
best  of  pasturage  for  one  million  of  sheep.  The 
experience  of  the  western  wool-grower  is,  that 
flocks  permitted  to  enjoy  a wide  range,  and  liber- 
ally grained  during  winter  months,  will  produce 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


168 


one-fourth  more  wool  than  the  same  flocks  kept  on 
circumscribed  pastures,  and  without  grain,  at  the 
East.  This  product  of  v/ool  would  equal  that  of 
the  present  annual  clip  of  V ermont,  the  third  State 
in  the  Union  in  the  production  of  wool.  Herding 
of  sheep  on  the  prairies  in  summer,  and  feeding 
corn  in  the  bulk  during  the  winter,  is  entirely  prac- 
ticable ; and  some  of  the  largest  shepherds  in  Illi- 
nois assure  me  that  their  investment  yields  them 
from  fifty  to  seventy-five  per  cent.,  and  that  wool 
can  be  raised  here  with  more  profit  at  thirty  cents 
the  pound  than  East  for  fifty  cents.  The  increased 
weight  of  the  fleece  more  than  counterbalances  the 
assumed  freight  of  three  cents  the  pound,  in  reach- 
ing the  best  market.  If,  then,  an  investment  in 
farms  East  for  wool-growing  at  $30  the  acre  is 
profitable,  our  lands  are  worth  even  more  for  the 
same  enterprise.  Consider,  too,  that  the  owner  of 
a small  farm  of  eighty  acres,  cropped  with  corn 
for  winter  consumption,  may  herd  his  thousand 
sheep  on  non-resident  lands,  to  owner’s  benefit 
rather  than  to  his  injury. 

“ If  the  plea  is,  that  we  are  ignorant  as  to  grades 
and  the  latest  methods,  and  that  there  is  great  risk 
in  the  business,  the  first  plea  being  admitted,  and 
the  last,  with  the  qualification  applicable  to  all  the 
most  successful  enterprises,  let  us  for  a moment 
turn  our  attention  to  the  rearing  of  cattle  and 
horses^  which  is  more  generally  understood. 

“With  a system,  what  pleasure  and  untold 


1G4 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


wealth  may  be  found  in  this  oeeupation ! Railway 
communication  is  not  necessary  to  success.  Good- 
conditioned  brutes,  ready  for  the  harness  or  the 
shambles,  will  furnish  their  own  locomotive  con- 
veyance to  the  best  city  markets,  or  to  the  railway, 
at  from  five  to  thirty  per  cent  of  their  value.  Ex- 
perienced graziers  inform  us  that  we  have  but  to 
cultivate  hardy  winter  grasses,  and  a little  corn  for 
the  extremest  cold  seasons,  and  we  have  all  the 
advantages  of  the  luxuriant  plains  of  Mexico  and 
South  America,  where  animals  are  herded  with 
profit  for  their  hides  and  tallow.” 

The  Hon.  Henry  L.  Ellsworth,  a distinguished 
citizen  and  large  farmer  of  Indiana,  thus  expresses 
himself  on  this  point : 

“ After  a full  consideration  of  the  subject,  I am 
satisfied  that  stock-raising  at  the  West  is  much 
more  profitable  than  raising  grain.  Indeed,  an 
examination  of  the  northwestern  States  shows  a 
vast  difference  in  the  wealth  of  the  grazier  over 
those  who  crop  with  grain.  The  profits  of  wheat 
appear  well  in  expectation  on  paper ; but  the  pros- 
pect is  blasted  by  a severe  winter,  insects,  bad 
weather  in  harvesting,  and  in  threshing  — for  there 
are  but  few  barns  at  the  West  — or  in  transporting 
to  market,  and,  lastly,  a fluctuation  in  the  market 
itself.” 

Let  me  inform  the  farmers  that  are,  or  are  to  be, 
residents  of  the  State,  that  there  is  a great  lack  of 
the  products  of  the  dairy  in  the  State,  and  that  no 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


165 


branch  of  their  business  could  be  more  profitable. 
At  least  one  half  the  grain  now  raised  in  the  State 
is  exported,  while  more  than  twice  the  quantity  of 
butter  requned  in  the  State  is  imported,  and  five 
times  the  quantity  of  cheese.  The  cost  of  taking 
a bushel  of  wheat  from  any  place  in  Iowa  to  New 
York  is  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  cents  per  bushel, 
while,  in  the  original  owner’s  hands,  it  would  not  be 
worth  much  over  one  dollar  at  any  season.  The 
cost  of  making  four  pounds  of  butter  and  six  of 
cheese,  which  can  always  be  sold  at  the  nearest 
town  for  one  dollar,  would  not  be  half  as  great  as 
raising  a bushel  of  wheat.  The  Iowa  Farmer 
says : “We  are  of  the  opinion  that  the  dairy  offers 
to  the  farmer  of  Iowa  a never-failing  source  of 
wealth,  and,  were  we  possessed  of  the  means,  we 
would  rather  invest  them  in  that  channel  than  in 
any  other  branch  of  husbandry.” 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


EDUCATION. 

School  System.— A very  liberal  provision  is 
made  for  the  permanent  support  of  common  and 
academic  institutions  in  this  State.  By  an  act  of 
Congress,  five  hundred  thousand  acres  of  land 
have  been  set  apart  for  the  promotion  of  the  cause 
of  education.  Some  of  these  lands  have  been 
sold,  and  the  proceeds  safely  invested  for  the  benefit 
of  schools.  Much,  however,  remains  stiU  in  the 
market,  and  will  be  disposed  of  as  the  wants  and 
interests  of  these  nurseries  of  knowledge  demand. 

There  is  to-day  about  $1,000,000  in  the  hands  of 
the  School  Fund  Commissioners,  within  the  State, 
which  is  loaned  at  ten  per  cent,  yielding  an  income 
of  nearly  $100,000.  This  amount,  distributed 
among  the  schools  of  the  Commonwealth,  places 
them  upon  a footing  not  surpassed  in  any  new 
State  of  the  northwest. 

State  University  of  Iowa. — This  institution 
opened  in  the  spring  of  1856,  at  Iowa  City,  where 
it  is  permanently  located.  The  present  building, 
occupied  as  the  State  House  of  Iowa,  together 
with  ten  acres  of  land,  upon  which  it  is  situated, 

(166) 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


167 


has  been  donated  by  the  State  to  the  use  of  this 
university,  when  the  capital  shall  be  removed  to 
jDemoine  City,  its  future  location.  Besides  the 
central  school  at  Iowa  City,  there  are  two  branches 
placed  with  respect  to  funds  on  the  same  basis 
as  the  one  at  that  place.  One  is  located  at  Fair- 
field,  Jefferson  county,  the  other  at  Dubuque. 
Two  townships  of  land,  granted  by  act  of  Con- 
gress, July  20,  1840,  for  the  support  of  a university, 
have  been  donated  by  the  State  to  this  institution, 
and  constitute  a permanent  .fund  for  its  support. 

It  wiU  be  seen  that  the  following  advantages  are 
possessed  by  this  school:  1.  It  is  the  people’s 

institution,  and  every  citizen  of  the  State  is  inter- 
ested in  it.  2.  It  is  entirely  free  from  sectarian  in- 
fluence and  bias.  3.  It  has  an  endowment  of  be- 
tween $178,000  and  $200,000,  which  places  it  on 
a basis  second  to  none  in  the  Union  ; and  thus  the 
trustees  are  enabled  to  sustain  a competent  num- 
ber of  efficient  and  educated  men  in  the  faculty. 
4.  Its  library  and  apparatus,  when  completed  (prob- 
ably during  this  year,)  will  be  superior  to  any  in 
the  west.  5.  It  is  favorably  located,  in  respect  to 
health,  good  society,  and  beautiful  and  romantic 
scenery. 

The  following  is  a list  of  the  trustees,  by  which 
it  will  be  seen  the  board  is  composed  of  some  of 
the  best  men  of  Iowa : His  Excellency  James  W. 
Grimes,  trustee  ex-officio ; George  W.  Me  Cleary, 
Anson  Hart,  E.  C.  Lyon,  G.  D.  Palmer,  James  PL 


168 


lOWl  HANDBOOK. 


Gower,  Edward  Connelly,  H.  W.  Lathrop,  M.  J. 
Morsman,  John  W.  Rankin,  P.  S.  Lake,  Laurin 
Dewey,  Thomas  Farmer,  E.  C.  Bidwell,  Amos 
Witter,  Lincoln  Clark. 

The  following  gentlemen  compose  the  faculty  of 
the  university : Amos  Dean,  L.L.  D.,  president, 

and  professor  of  history ; G.  R.  Perkins,  professor 
of  mathematics ; Henry  S.  Welton,  A.  M.,  profes- 
sor of  ancient  languages  ; James  Hall,  professor  of 
natural  history ; Josiah  D.  Whitney,  professor  of 
chemistry ; I.  M.  Stone,  professor  of  natm-al  phil- 
osophy ; Edward  Bendalie,  professor  of  modern 
languages  ; Dr.  Franklin  Wells,  professor  of  the 
normal  department. 

There  is  a normal  school  connected  with  the 
university,  to  which  fifty  students  are  entitled  to 
go  free  of  charge,  by  receiving  an  appointment 
from  the  governor,  superintendent  of  public  in- 
struction, or  from  either  of  the  district  judges. 
There  are  three  normal  schools  established  by  law : 
one  at  Oscaloosa,  one  at  Mount  Pleasant,  one  at 
Andrew;  one  only  is  now  in  operation,  that  at 
Oscaloosa. 

Common  schools  are  established  in  every  hamlet, 
and  on  all  the  prairies  v/here  a sufficient  number 
can  be  gathered  together  to  avail  themselves  of  the 
rich  provision  a fostering  government  has  bestowed 
upon  the  youth  of  the  State.  In  the  cities  and 
larger  towns  throughout  the  State,  some  of  the 
finest  buildings  erected  have  been  for  school  pur- 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


169 


poses.  Keolmk,  Burlington,  Muscatine,  Daven- 
port, and  Dubuque,  can  point  to  their  public  school 
buildings  with  pride.  In  ail  these  cities,  and  in 
many  others,  are  well-conducted,  genteel  schools, 
free  to  the  youth  of  those  places. 

Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum.-— An  institution  for 
the  instruction  of  the  deaf  and  dumb  has  recently 
been  opened  in  Iowa  City. 

Blind  Asylum. — -An  institution  for  the  instruc- 
tion of  the  blind  was  organized  and  put  into  opera- 
tion in  Iowa  City,  in  the  spring  of  1853. 

Academies  and  Colleges.— -This  State  is  well 
supplied  with  academies  and  colleges,  some  of 
which  will  compare  favorably  with  those  in  the 
Atlantic  States,  v/hile  all  reflect  credit  upon  the 
patriotism  and  enterprise  of  the  Hawkeye  State. 
Vv^e  give  herein  a brief  sketch  of  their  condition. 

The  Burlington  University  is  a literary  institu- 
tion of  the  Baptist  denomination,  located  at  Bur- 
lington, in  April,  1852.  The  college  edifice  was 
erected  in  1853-4,  and  dedicated  on  the  4th  of  July, 
1854.  This  building  is  forty-four  by  sixty-five 
feet,  three  stories  high,  and  its  style  of  architecture 
and  economic  arrangement  reflect  great  credit  upon 
its  founders  and  architects. 

Alexander  College  has  been  recently  established 
at  Dubuque,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Synod  of 

15 


170 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


Iowa.  A new  college  building  lias  been  erected, 
sixty  by  one  hundred  feet  long,  five  stories  high. 

The  Central  College  of  Iowa  is  situated  at  De- 
moine  City,  and  is  under  the  fostering  care  of  the 
Lutheran  church.  A college  building  was  erected 
last  year,  at  a cost  of  $20,000. 

The  Central  University  of  Iowa  is  located  at 
Pella,  Marion  county,  and  is  under  the  auspices  of 
the  Baptist  Church. 

The  Dubuque  Female  Institute  is  situated  upon 
G,  beautiful  terrace  in  the  rear  of  the  city  of  Du- 
buque, This  institution  was  established  three 
years  since,  under  the  patronage  of  Miss  Catherine 
Beecher. 

The  Iowa  College,  situated  north  of  Davenport, 
is  under  the  care  of  the  New  School  Presbyterians 
and  the  Congregationalists. 

The  Iowa  Conference  Seminary  is  located  at 
Mount  Vernon,  Lewis  county. 

The  Iowa  Wesleyan  University  is  located  at 
Mount  Pleasant,  Henry  county,  and  is  under  the 
control  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church. 

The  Iowa  Medical  College  is  at  Keokuk,  of 
which  Hon.  Thomas  W.  Daggett  is  president. 

The  Iowa  Female  Collegiate  Institute  is  estab- 
lished at  Iowa  City,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Inde- 
pendent Order  of  Odd  Fellows. 

There  is  also  a ladies’  college  at  Davenport,  under 
the  control  of  private  individuals.  The  building  is 
situated  upon  a high  bluff,  overlooking  the  Missis- 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


171 


sippi  for  a great  distance.  It  is  very  large,  and 
well  arranged  for  the  purpose  intended. 

At  a recent  educational  convention,  held  in  June 
last,  at  Iowa  City,  a school  journal  was  established, 
to  be  published  at  Iowa  City,  entitled  the  V oice 
of  Iowa.’’ 

Heligious.  — The  following  statistics,  compiled 
from  the  latest  returns,  will  give  a correct  view  of 
the  strength  of  the  various  religious  denominations 
in  Iowa: 

CongregationaL  — Churches,  89  (divided  into 
five  associations) ; ministers,  73 ; communicants, 
2,677.  Baptists.  — Churches,  105  (divided  into 
six  associations) ; pastors,  66 ; members,  4,100. 
Presbyterian.  — The  New  School  Synod  of  Iowa 
consists  of  four  presbyteries.  The  statistics  are  not 
known.  The  Old  School  is  divided  into  three 
presbyteries,  of  which  there  were,  in  1844,  Churches, 
171 ; members,  1,833.  Episcopal.  — The  Protest- 
ant Episcopal  Church  in  Iowa  has  eighteen  churches 
within  its  diocese,  with  a settled  pastor  over  most 
of  them.  The  number  of  communicants  at  the 
present  time  is  not  known.  The  Right  Rev.  Bishop 
Lee,  of  Davenport,  presides  over  the  diocese. 
Methodist  Episcopal.  — Churches,  80  ; ministers, 
222 ; members,  15,131.  Catholics.  — Churches, 
40 ; stations,  17 ; clergymen,  30 ; religious  com- 
munities, 5 ; academies  5 ; population,  20,000. 

The  Christians,  Lutherans,  and  Disciples  have 


172 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


organized  churches  in  various  places  throughout 
the  State,  but  I am  not  in  possession  of  the  statis- 
tics. I have  given  sufficient,  however,  to  satisfy 
the  reader  that  both  religion  and  education  occupy  a 
good  share  of  the  attention  of  the  people  already 
located  here. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 


LIST  OF  POST-OFFICES  IN  IOWA,  ARRANGED  ALPHA- 
BETICALLY IN  COUNTIES. 


ADAIR  COUNTY. 
Adair,  ' MarUn’s, 

Alconus,  Summerset, 

liolaclay’s,  WalitaliAvah. 

ADAMS  COUNTY. 
Icaria,  Quincy. 

ALAMAKEE  COUNTY. 
Bellows,  Lycurgus, 
Bryson,  Markee, 

Bunker  Hill,  Ossian, 

Capoli,  Painted  Rock, 

Columbus,  Postville, 
French  Creek,  Rossyille, 
GrantUlle,  Union  Prairie, 

Hardin,  Volney, 

Ion,  'Waterville, 

Lansing,  Wawkon, 
Mirror,  Wexford. 

Lybrand, 

APPANOOSE  COUNTY. 
Centreville,  Cincinnati, 


HibbsAullc,  Pleasant  View, 

Iconium,  Sharon, 

Mt.  Gilead,  Unionville, 

Moravia,  Yv^ells’  Mills. 

MilKard, 

AUDUBON  COUNTY. 
Ballard,  Dayton, 

Bear  Grove,  Hamlin  Grove. 

BENTON  COUNTY. 

Benton  City,  Parker’s  Grove, 

Beulah,  Taylor’s  Grove, 

Burke,  Vinton, 

Marysville,  Eagle. 

Prairie  Creek, 


BLACKHAWK  COUNTY. 


Barclay, 
Cedar  Falls, 
Banner, 
Enterprise, 
Eliza, 

EUi  River, 


Knox, 

Laporte  City, 
Sturgess  Rapids 
V/aterloo, 
Begisier, 
Gam])aign. 


[Note.— The  .names  of  all  the  counties  in  the  State  are  given  — those  that  have 
no  Post-OlSces  named  therein  are  not  yet  organized.  County-seats  are  in 
SMALL  c.vpiTALS ; ucMspapers  in  italics,  and  published  in  the  towns  whose  names 
they  immediately  foUow.] 

15^ 


(173) 


174 


IOWA  HANDBOOK 


BOONE  COUNTY. 
Bellepoint,  Rapids, 
Boonsboro,  Ridge, 

!^Iineral  Ridge,  Sweed  Point. 
Parkersbiirgh, 

BREMER  COUNTY. 
Neutral,  Jackson  Point, 
Janesville,  Wavebly, 
Herald,  Bepublican. 

BUCHANAN  COUNTY. 
Brandon,  Independence, 
Buffalo  Grove,  Civilian, 
Chatham,  Pine, 

Erin,  Quasqueton, 

Frink’s  Grove,  Williamsburgh. 
Greely’s  Grove, 

BUTLER  COUNTY. 
Beaver  Grove,  Elm  Springs, 
Butler  Centre,  Leoni, 
Claeksyille,  Willoughby. 

BUENA  VISTA  COUNTY. 

BUNCOMBE  COUNTY. 

CALHOUN  COUNTY. 

CARROLL  COUNTY. 

CASS  COUNTY. 

Edna,  Lura, 

Iranistan,  Pymosa. 

Lewis, 

CEDAR  COUNTY. 
Cedar,  Honey  Grove, 

Cambridge,  Inland, 

Gower’s  Ferry,  Lacton, 
Harwell,  Massilon, 


Onion  Grove,  Springdale, 
Pedee,  Tipton, 

Pioneer  Grove,  Advertiser, 

Red  Oak,  Democrat, 
Rochester,  West  Branch. 
Rosette,  Woodbridge. 

CERRO  GORDO  COUNTY. 
Clear  Lake,  ISIason  City. 
Shell  Rock  Falls, 

CHEROKEE  COUNTY. 

CLAY  COUNTY. 


CLARKE  COUNTY. 
Bartletteville,  Milford, 
Glenns,  Norris, 

Hopeville,  Osceola, 
Hickory  Grove,  Ottawa, 
Laporte,  White  Breast. 


CLAYTON  COUNTY. 


Brookville, 
Buena  Vista, 
Clayton, 
Communia, 
Council  Hill, 
Elkader, 
Tribune, 
Elkport, 

F armersburg, 

Garnavillo, 

Girard, 

Grand  Meadow, 
Gutenberg, 
Herald, 

High  Grove, 


Highland, 
Littleporte, 
Lodomills, 
McGregor’s 
Landing, 
Millville, 
Monona, 
National, 
Nev/stand, 
Panther  Creek, 
Sylvan, 
Strawberry 
Point, 
Sodomville, 
Volga  City. 


CLINTON  COUNTY, 
Boone  Spring,  Bingess, 
Brookfield,  Camanche, 
Buena  Vista,  Charlotte, 


IOWA  HANDBOOK 


175 


Cherry  Wood, 

Clinton, 

Begister, 

Dewitt, 

Clintonian,  Spring  Rock, 
Elk  River, 

Elvira, 

Grand  Mound, 


Lyons, 

Mirror, 

Advocate, 

Orange, 


Toronto, 

Welton. 


CHICKASAW  COUNTY. 
Bradford,  New  Hampton 
Chickasaw, 

CRAWFORD  COUNTY. 
DALLAS  COUNTY. 


Adell, 

SliijD  of  State. 
Boone, 

DAVIS 

Bloomfield, 

U7iion, 

Chequist, 

Del  Norte, 
Drakesville, 
Eloris, 
Monterey, 

Mt.  Calvary, 
Nottingham, 
Oak  Spring, 
Pulaski, 


McKay, 

, Uncle  Sam, 
Wiscotta. 

COUNTY. 

Roscoe, 

Salt  Creek, 

Savannah, 

Soap  Creek, 

Stiles, 

Stringtown, 

Taylor, 

Troy, 

Weeping  Wil- 
low, 

West  Grove. 


DECATUR  COUNTY. 
Decatur,  Leon, 

Franklin,  New  Buda, 

Garden  Grove,  Nine  Eagles, 
Hungarian  Turkey  Run. 

Settlement, 

DES  MOINES  COUNTY. 
Albright’s,  Augusta, 


Burlington, 

Ilawlxcye, 

Gazette, 

Farmer, 

Ed’l  Journal, 

Danville, 

Dale, 

Dodgeville, 
Hawk  Eye, 
Huron, 
Hartford, 


Kingston, 

Kossuth, 

Limestone, 

Linton, 

Middletown, 

Northfield, 

Oakland, 

Parish, 

Pleasant  Grove, 
South  Flint, 
Yellow  Springs. 


DELAWARE  COUNTY. 


Bailey’s  Ford, 
Burrington, 
Coffin’s  Grove, 
Cold  Water, 
Colesburg, 
Coluny, 
Delhi, 
Republican, 
Delaware 
Centre, 
Dyersville, 
Forrestville, 
Green  Hill, 


Grove  Creek, 

Hopkinton, 

Hartwick, 

Mount  Hope, 

Oakland, 

Orrinden, 

Plum  Spring, 

Poultney, 

Rockville, 

Springbranch, 

Uniontown, 

Viola. 


DICKINSON  COUNTY. 
DUBUQUE  COUNTY. 


Alma, 
Aspinwall, 
Buncombe, 
Cascade, 
Centralia, 
Charmingvllle, 
Cottage  Hill, 
Dubuque, 
Republican, 
forth-West, 
Expr.  ^ Her., 
Farmer, 
Durango, 


Epwortn, 
Evergreen, 
Fillmore, 
GlassneUn, 
Hogansville, 
Mileray, 

New  Vienna, 
Pin  Oak, 
Peru, 

Tivoli, 

Viola, 

W eld’s  Land- 
ing. 


176 


IOWA  HANDBOOK 


EMMETT  COUNTY. 


FAYETTE 

Clermont, 

Douglas, 

Eden, 

Eldorado, 

E ayette-ville. 
Gamble  Grove, 
Illyria, 

Leo, 

Le  Roy. 


COUNTY. 
Linn, 
Louisville, 
Mill  Grove, 
Taylorsville, 
Waucoma, 
"Windsor, 
West  Union, 
Pioneer. 


FLOYD  COUNTY. 
Freeman,  Eloyd  Centre, 
St.  Chaeles,  Gilmantown. 
Intelligencer. 

FRANKLIN  COUNTY. 


HARRISON  COUNTY. 
Calhoun,  Fontainbleau, 

Cincinnati,  Magnolia. 

HARDIN  COUNTY. 


Alden, 

Eldora, 

Sentinel, 

Hardin, 

Pt.  Pleasant, 


Poughkeepsie, 
Rockwood, 
Rocks^dvania, 
Steamboat 
- Rock. 


HENRY  COUNTY. 
East  Grove,  New  London, 
Hillsborough,  Rome, 
Lowell,  Salem, 

Marshall,  Trenton, 

Mt.  Pleas.ant,  Vega, 
Observer,  AVayne, 

Home  Journal,  Winfield. 


FREMONT  COUNTY. 
Austin,  McKissack’s 

Cory,  Grove, 

DavASonburgh,  Osage, 
Gaston,  Sidney, 

Manti,  Tabor. 

GREENE  COUNTY. 
Greenups,  Jefferson, 

Havana,  Kendrick. 

GRUNDY  COUNTY. 
Parkersburg. 

GUTHRIE  COUNTY. 
Allen,  Panora, 

Bear  Grove,  Sentinel, 
Guthrie  Centre,  Pennsbury. 
Pioneer. 

HANCOCK  COUNTY. 


HOWARD  COUNTY. 
Arnoldville,  Lime  Springs, 

Howard,  New  Oregon, 

Howard  Cen-  Vernon 
tre,  Sjnings. 


IDA  COUNTY. 
New  Ida. 


IOWA  COUNTY. 


Cono, 

Dayton, 

Downard, 

Homestead, 

Jones, 

Kozta, 


Marengo, 
Millersburg, 
North  English, 
Prairie  Creek, 
Waubun, 
MTlliamsburg. 


JACKSON  COUNTY. 
Andrew,  Bridgeport, 

Bellevue,  Canton, 

Sentinel,  Cobb, 


IOWA  HANDBOOK 


177 


Cottonville, 
Copper  Creek, 
EmeKne, 
Farmer’s 
Creek, 
Fulton, 

Garry  Owen, 
Hickory  Grove, 
Higgensport, 
Iron  Hills, 
Lamonte, 
Maquoketa, 
Excelsior, 
Sentinel, 


Monmoutli, 

Newton, 

Ozark, 

Folley, 

Sabula, 

Solon, 

Spring  Brook, 
Spruce  Mills, 
Sterling, 
SulKvan, 
Summer  Hill, 
Van  Buren, 
Waterford, 
WicklifFe. 


JASPER  COUNTY. 


Con, 

Elliott, 

EUv  Creek, 
Lynville, 
Monroe, 
Morristown, 


North  Skunk 
River, 
Newton, 
Express, 
Parkersburg, 


JEFFERSON  COUNTY. 


Abingdon, 

Absecom, 

Batawa, 

Brookville, 

Blue  Point, 

I)eeds\dlle, 

Fairfield, 

Ledger, 

Sentinel, 

Germanville, 


Glasgow, 

Harmony, 

Lockridge, 

Libertyville, 

Pleasant  Plain, 

Salina, 

Webster, 

Walnut  Creek, 

AVooster. 


JOHNSON  COUNTY. 
Cartharge,  Repoi'ler, 


Copi, 

Frank  Pierce, 
Hueston, 
Iowa  City, 
Bepublican, 


Voice  of  Iowa, 
klorfordsville, 
Newport, 
Newp’t  Centre, 
Solon, 


Seventy-Eight,  Shuey\dllc, 
Seventy-Seven,  AVindham. 


JONES 
Anamosa, 
Eureka, 
Bowen’s  Pr’rie. 
Castle  Grove, 
Duane, 
Fairview, 
Madison, 
Monticello, 
Pierce, 


COUNTY. 

Grove  Creek, 
Highl’d  Grove, 
, Johnson, 
Alarshfield, 
Massilon, 
Rome, 

Scotch  Grove, 
AA'alnut  Fork, 
AVyoming. 


KEOKUK  COUNTY. 


Butler, 

Lancaster, 

Eagle, 

Olean, 

Richland, 

Sigourney, 


South  English, 
Springfield, 
Steady  Run, 
AVarner’s  Mill, 
AA^  ebster, 
AVimer’s  Mills. 


Lifeintlie  West, 

KOSSUTH  COUNTY. 
Algona,  Johnson’s  Set- 
Cresco,  tlement, 

Dahcotah,  Humboldt. 

LEE  COUNTY. 


Ambrosia, 

Big  Mound, 

Camargo, 

Charleston, 

Denmark, 

Dover, 

Fort  Madison, 
Argus, 

Plain  Decder, 
Green  Bay, 
Summitville, 


Keokuk, 

Med.  Journal, 
Times, 

Gate  City, 
Montrose, 

New  Boston, 
Pilot  Grove, 
Primrose, 
Fr’nklin  Cn’lre, 
String  Prairie, 
AVest  Point. 


178 


IOWA  HANDBOOK 


LINN  COUNTY. 


^I/VEION  COUNTY. 


Boulder,  Begistcr, 

Cedar  Bapids,  Alon  Dieii, 
Times,  J^Iount  Vernon, 

Farmer,  Necot, 

Democrat,  Oak  Grove, 
Central  Point,  Palo, 

Porfax,  Prospect  Hill, 

Iloosier  Grove,  St.  JuKan, 
Ivanlioe,  St.  Mary’s, 

Lafayette,  Spring  Grove, 
Lisbon,  Springville, 

Mapjon,  Valley  Farm. 

LOUISA  COUNTY. 
Concord,  Port  Allen, 
Columbus  City,  Port  Louisa,  ' 
Courier,  Spring  Glenn, 

Grand  View,  Toolsborough, 
Harrison,  Virginia  Grove, 

Hope  Farm,  Wapello, 
Morning  Sun,  Intelligencer. 
Palo  Alto, 

LUCAS  COUNTY. 

Argo,  Freeland, 

Cedar  Grove,  Greenville, 
CiL\RiTON,  La  Grange, 
Mail,  Tallahoma. 

MADISON  COUNTY. 
Bibb’s  Ptidge,  St.  Charles, 
North  Branch,  WmiEESET. 
Peru. 

MABSHALL  COUNTY. 
Albion,  Marshaltown, 

Le  Grand,  Mormon  Hill, 
Lafayette,  Timber  Creek. 
Mapjetta, 


Attica,  Kxoxwlle, 

Bennington,  Journal, 

Columbia,  MarysUlle, 

Ely,  Newbern, 

English  Settle- Pella, 

ment,  Pleasantville, 

Gosport,  B.  Cedar  Mills, 

Hamilton,  Bed  Bock, 

lola.  Wheeling. 

MILLS  COUNTY. 

Cerro  Gordo,  Indian  Creek, 

Cahfornia  City,  Ingraham, 
Florence,  St.  Mary’s, 

GLEmvooD,  Wahoghbonsy. 

Times, 


MAHASICA  COUNTY. 


Agricola, 

Auburn, 

Beiiefontaine, 

Blue  Creek, 

Fremont, 

Gramdlle, 

Hopewell, 

Indlanopohs, 


Nine  hlile, 

OSCALOOSA, 

Herald, 

Times, 

Peoria, 

Bose  Hill, 

Scott. 


MONBOE  COUNTY. 


Avery, 

Albl\, 

Free  Press, 
Cuba, 

Gray’s  Greek, 


H’fway  Prairie, 
So\ilia, 

Lucas, 

Mantua. 


MITCHELL  COUNTY. 
Cora,  Democrat, 

IMitchell,  St.  Ansger. 

Osage, 


I MONONA  COUNTY. 

I Asiitox,  Preparation. 


IOWA  HANDBOOK. 


179 


MONTGOMERY  COUNTY. 
Frankfokd,  Sciola. 

MUSCATINE  COUNTY. 


Centre  Grove, 

Fairport, 

Melj)ine, 

Moscow, 

Muscatine, 

Journal, 


Enquirer, 

Pike, 

Strawb’ry  Hill. 
Sweetlancl  Cen- 
tre, 

West  Liberty. 


Dresden, 

Grinnell, 

Montezuma, 

Republican, 


Gazette, 
Sugar  Grove, 
Victor. 


RINGGOLD  COUNTY. 
Mount  Aik. 

SAC  COUNTY. 
New  Munich. 


O’BRIEN  COUNTY. 
OSCEOLA  COUNTY. 

PAGE  COUNTY. 
Centre,  Nodaway, 

Clarinda,  Tarkio. 

Hawleyville, 

PALO  ALTO  COUNTY. 
PLYMOUTH  COUNTY. 


SCOTT  COUNTY. 
Allen’s  Grove,  Fulton, 

Amity,  Le  Claire, 

Big  Rock,  Le  Claire  Ce’tre, 
Blue  Grass,  Linn  Grove, 
Davenport,  Pleasant  V alley. 
Gazette,  Princeton, 

Temp.  Organ,  Walnut  Grove, 
Der  Deniokrat,  West  Buffalo, 
Democrat,  Walcott. 


POCAHONTAS  COUNTY. 


POLK  COUNTY. 


Apple  Grove, 

Circleville, 

Demoine  City, 

Citizen, 

Statesman, 

Eckhart, 

Freel, 


Hartman, 
Hopkins  Grove, 
Midway, 

Polk  City, 
Rising  Sun, 
Saylorville, 
Summerset. 


POTTAWATTAMIE  CO. 
Americus,  Ghronotype, 

Big  Grove,  Macedonia, 

Council  Prairie  Flower, 

Bluffs,  Silver  Creek. 

Bugle, 


SHELBY  COUNTY. 
Shelbyville. 

SIOUX  COUNTY. 

STORY  COUNTY. 
Goshen,  Nevada. 

TAMA  COUNTY. 
Bucldngham,  Red  Man, 
Indiantown,  TamaUlle, 
Kinisaw,  Toledo, 
Ola,  Tribune. 

TAYLOR  COUNTY. 
Grove,  Gravity. 


POWESHEHC  COUNTY. 
Bear  Creek,  Deep  River, 


UNION  COUNTY. 
Afton,  Kings. 


180 


IOWA  HANDBOOK 


VAN  BUREN  COUNTY. 


Bentonsport, 

Birmingham, 

Bonaparte, 

Business 

Corner, 

Earmington, 


Mt.  Sterling, 
New  Market, 
Oak  Point, 
Pameka, 
Philadelpliia, 
Pittsburg, 


Gainesborough,  Portland, 


Home, 
lowaville, 
Keosaqua, 
Union, 
Lebanon, 
Lick  Creek, 
Milton, 


Union. 
Upton, 
Utica, 
Vernon, 
Mirror, 
Winchester. 


WARREN  COUNTY. 


Carlisle, 

Dorriville, 

E ort  Plain, 
Greenhurst, 
Hammondsb’^ 
Handsome 
View, 
Hartford, 
Indianola, 


Bepublican, 
Lynn, 
Montpelier, 
Palmyra, 
Plain  ville, 
Sandyville, 
Wilmington, 
AVhite  Oak. 


WASHINGTON  COUNTY 


Amboy, 

Brighton, 

Clay, 

Crawfordsville, 
Davis  Creek, 
Dutch  Creek, 
Marcellus, 

WAYNE 

Bethlehem, 

Cambria, 


Pottsville, 

Richmond, 

Valley, 

Washington, 

Press, 

Wasson  ville, 
Yatton. 

COUNTY. 

CORYDON, 

Ereedom, 


Grand  River,  Warsaw. 
South  Eork, 

WAPELLO  COUNTY. 


Agency  City, 

Ashland, 

Blakesburg, 

Dahlonega, 

Dorr\dlle, 

EddyAille, 

Commercial, 

Eomitain  Sp’g 

Greene, 


ChilHcothe, 
Competine, 
Cotton  Grove, 
Kirkville, 
Ottumwa, 
Courier, 
Pleasant  Lake, 
Point  Isabelle. 


WEBSTER  COUNTY. 
Border  Plains,  Dakotah, 
Cresco,  (no  P.  Homer, 

O.  yet.)  Webster  City, 
Port  Dodge,  Ilomest'd  Jour. 


WINNESHEIK  COUNTY 


Burr  Oak, 

Calmar, 

Castaha, 

Decorah, 

Sentinel, 

Et.  Atkinson, 
Erank\ille. 


Ereeport, 

Moneek, 

Old  Mission, 
Ossian, 

Trout  River, 
Winnesheik, 


WINNEBAGO  COUNTY. 

WOODBURY  COUNTY. 
Eloyd’s  Bluff,  Serg’nt’s  Bluff, 
Sioux  City,  Smithland. 

WORTH  COUNTY. 
Bristol. 

WRIGHT  COUNTY. 


Notk. —There  are  5 monthly,  84  weekly,  and  13  daily  newspapers  in  Iowa- 
[If  any  papers  are  omitted  in  the  above  list,  the  author  wiU  supply  the  omission 
in  an  another  edition,  if  duly  notified.] 


CHAPTER  XXIV 


RAILROAD  DISTANCES  ON  THE  VARIOUS  LINES,  CON- 
NECTING CHICAGO  WITH  THE  STATE  OF  IOWA. 


Chicago  and  Eock 
Eailroad. 

Island 

From  Chicago  to 

Miles. 

Junction,  . 
Blue  Island,  . 

. 6 

9 

Bremen,  . 

. 8 

Mokena, 

6 

Joilet,  . . 

. 11 

Minooka, 

, 10 

Morris, 

. 11 

Seneca, 

. 10 

Marseilles, 

. 5 

OttaAva, 

8 

Utica, 

. 9 

La  Salle, 

1 

(111.  Central  E,  E. 

crosses.)  5 

Peru, 

Trenton,  . 

. 10 

Bureau  Junction,  . 

4 

Tiskibva,  . 
Pond  Creek,  . 

. 9 

0 

Sheffield,  . 

. 10 

Anawan, 
Geneseo,  . 

7 

. 13 

Colona, 

. 10 

Moline, 

, 10 

Eock  Island,  . 

3 

Total 

. 181 

Mississippi  and  Missolth  RailpvOAd. 


Prom  Davenport  to 


Completed. 


Located. 


Miles. 

^ Wolcott,  ......  12 

Farnam, 17 

Durant,  ......  20 

< Junction  of  Muscatine  and  Cedar  liajiids,  27 


^Moscow,  on  Cedar  lliver,  ...  30 

West  Liberty,  . . . . 39 

Iowa  City, 55 

( Centre  of  Iowa  County,  ...  85 

j “ Pow'esheik  County,  . . Ill 

j Newton,  Jasper  County,  . . . 141 

I Fort  Des  Moines,  . . . . 174 

Council  Bluffs,  . . . . 310 

16 


Proposed. 


(181) 


182 


IOWA  HANDBOOK 


Second  General  Division,  from  Muscatine  to  Mouth  of  Platte. 


From  Muscatine  to  Slilea 

Under  Contract.  Fredonia,  or  Iowa  River,  . . .20 

( Columbus  City,  .....  22 

Located.  < Washington, 39 

Oscaloosa, 95 

Surveyed.  Mouth  of  Platte  (21  miles  below  Council 

Bluffs), 280 


Third  General  Division,  from  Muscatine  to  Cedar  Eapids. 


From  Muscatine  to 


Completed. 

Located. 


Junction  with  1st  General  Division, 

^ Tipton, 

I Cedar  Rapids,  . . . . 


5Iiles. 

12 

27 

63 


Chicago,  Burlington,  and 
Quincy  Railroad. 


From  Chicago  to  Miles. 

Oak  Ridge,  ...  8 

Cottage  Hill,  . . .8 

Babcock’s  Grove,  . . 4 

Danby,  ....  2 

Wheaton,  ...  3 

Winfield,  ....  2 

Junction,  ...  3 

Batavia,  . . . .6 

Aurora,  ....  7 

Montgomery,  . . .3 

Oswego,  ...  2 

Bristol,  . , . .3 

Plano,  ....  6 

Newark,  . . . . 5 

Somonauk,  ...  3 

Waverly,  ....  6 

Earl,  ....  7 

Mendota,  . . . .11 

(Crosses  Illinois  Central.) 
Arlington,  . . .9 

Dover,  ....  7 


From  Chicago  to 

Mile.s 

Princeton, . 

. . 6 

Wyanet, 

6 

French  Grove,  . 

. 6 

Nephonset,  . 

7 

Kewanee,  . 

. 7 

Galoy,  . 

8 

Walnut,  . 

. 8 

Wataga, 

8 

Galesburg, 

. 8 

Monmouth,  . 

8 

Young  America, 

, 8 

East  Biu’Hngton,  . 

. 18 

Total, 

. 203 

Chicago  and  Fulton 

ROAD.* 

Rail- 

From  Chicago  to 

Miles. 

Oak  Ridge, 

8 

Cottage  Hill, 

8 16 

Babcock’s  Grove,  . 

4 20 

Danby, 

2 22 

Wheaton, 

3 25 

* The  Chicago,  Iowa,  and  Nebraska  Railroad,  and  the  Iowa  Central  Railroad, 
are  continuations  west,  into  the  interior  of  Iowa 


IOWA 

HANDBOOK. 

183 

From  Chicago  to 

iVIiles. 

From  Chicago  to 

Miles. 

Winfield,  . 

. 2 

27 

CKnton,  . 

4 

39 

Junction, 

3 

30 

Elgin, 

. 3 

42 

Geneva, 

. 5 

35 

Gilbert’s, 

8 

50 

Blackberry, 

9 

44 

Huntley’s,  . 

. 5 

55 

Lodi, 

. 6 

50 

Union,  . 

7 

62 

Coiirtland, 

5 

55 

Marengo,  . 

. 4 

66 

De  Kalb,  . 
Dement, 

. 3 

58 

Garden  Prairie, 

6 

72 

8 

66 

Belvidere,  . 
Cherry  Valley, 

. 6 

78 

Lane, 

. 6 

72 

6 

84 

Ogle,  . 

8 

80 

Rockford,  . 

. 8 

92 

Franklin,  . 

. 7 

87 

Winnebago,  . 

7 

99 

Taylor,  , 

4 

91 

Pecatonica, 

. 7 

406 

Dixon, 

. 4 

95 

Nevada,  . 

8 

114 

Sterling, 

. 14 

109 

Freeport,  . 

. 7 

121 

Union  Grove, 

. 15 

124 

Eleroy,  . 

8 

129 

F ulton,  . 

, 10 

134 

Lena, 

Nora, 

. 5 
7 

134 

141 

Galena  and 

Chicago  Rail- 

Warren, 

. 4 

145 

RO.LD, 

Apple  River,  . 

6 

151 

From  Chicago  to 

Miles. 

Scales  Mound,  . 

, 8 

159 

Junction  (see  foregoing 

Council  Hill,  . 

5 

164 

table), 

Wayne, 

• • 

30 

Galena, 

. 7 

171 

. 5 

35 

Dunleith, 

. 10 

181 

DISTANCES  ON  THE  VARIOUS  STAGE  ROUTES  THROUGH- 
OUT THE  STATE. 


Da^tenp’t  to  Council  Blltfs. 

From  Davenport  to 

Miles, 

IMuscatine, 

. 30 

Iowa  City, 

. 33 

63 

Marengo,  . 

. 26 

89 

Sugar  drove,  . 

. 46 

135 

Newton, 

. 20 

155 

Keith’s,  . 

. 19 

174 

Fort  Des  Moines, 

. 14 

188 

Adel, 

. 24  212 

Panther  Creek,  . 

. 5 

217 

Bear  Grove,  . 

. 22 

239 

Indian  Grove, 

. 11 

250 

Nishnabottany, 

15 

265 

Pleasant  Spring, 

. 9 

274 

From  Davenport  to 

Miles 

Indiantown,  . 

4 278 

Walnut  Creek,  . 

5 283 

West  Nishnabottany, 

15  298 

Silver  Creek, 

13  311 

Keg  Creek, 

6 317 

Coimcil  Bluffs,  , 

10  327 

Burlington  to  Council 
Bluffs. 

From  Burlington  to 

Miles. 

London, 

20 

Mt.  Pleasant, . 

10  30 

Rome, 

Fairfield, 

8 38 

15  53 

184 


IOWA  HANDBOOK 


From  Burlington  to 

Miles; 

Libertyville, 

7 60 

Agency  City,  . 

15  75 

Ottumwa,  . 

4 79 

Eddyville, 

15  94 

Oskaloosa,  . 

10  104 

Pella,  . 

18  122 

Ft.  Des  Moines, . 

46  168 

See  preceding  table 
for  intermediate  dis- 
tances. 

Council  Bluffs,  . 139  307 

From  Larons  and  Clinton 

To 

Miles. 

Dewitt,  . 

20 

Maquoketa, 
Maquoketa,  direct,  . 

20  40 

35 

Wyoming,  . 

18  53 

Anamosa, 

18  71 

Marion, 

17  88 

Cedar  Rapids, 

6 94 

From  Lyons  to 

SRles. 

Dewitt, 

20 

Tipton,  . 

35  55 

Iowa  City,  . 

25  80 

From  Lyons  to 

Miles. 

Camanche, . 

6 

Princeton, 

11  17 

Le  Claire,  . 

6 23 

Davenport,  . . . 

15  38 

From  Lyons  to 

Mies. 

Sabula, 

17 

Bellevue, 

20  37 

Dubuque,  . 

25  62 

Da^rnport  to  Cedar 

R.APIDS. 

From  Davenport  to 

MUes. 

Tipton,  . 

40 

Mt.  Vernon, 

20  60 

From  Davenport  to  Miles. 

Marion,  . . . 13  73 

Cedar  Eapids,  . . 5 78 

Da's^nport  to  Dubuque. 

From  Davenport  to  Miles. 

Dewitt,  . . .21 

Maquoketa,  . . 19  40 

Andrew,  . . . 8 48 

La  Motte,  . . 10  58 

Dubuque,  , . . 16  74 

Dubuque  to  Cedar  Falls. 

From  Dubuque  to  Miles. 

Dellii,  . . .36 

Independence,  . 36  72 

Cedar  Falls,  . . 25  97 

Dubuque  to  Iowa  City. 

From  Dubuque  to  Miles. 

Cascade,  . . .26 

Monticello,  . . 12  38 

Anamosa,  . . . 13  51 

Fairview,  . . 4 55 

Marion,  . . . 15  70 

Cedar  Rapids,  . 5 75 

Iowa  City,  . . .25  100 

Ced.arR.apids  to  Cedar  Falls. 

From  Cedar  Rapids  to  Sliles. 

Vinton,  . . .25 

Waterloo,  . . 30  55 

Cedar  Falls,  . . 7 72 

Krokuk  to  Iowa  City. 

From  Keokuk  to  Jliles. 

Charleston,  . .18 

Primrose,  . . 12  30 

Birmingham,  . . 24  54 

Fairfield,  . . 9 63 

Brighton,  . . . 12  75 

Washington,  . . 15  90 

Iowa  City,  . . . 35  125 


IOWA  HANDBOOK, 


185 


Keokuk  to  Keosauqua. 


From.  Keokuk  to 

Miles. 

Charleston,  . 

18 

Warren,  . 
Bonaparte, 

. 6 24 

12  36 

Keosauqua, 

. 12  48 

Bonaparte  to  Birmingham. 

From  Bonaparte  to 

Miles. 

AYinchester, 

. 12 

Birmingham, 

. 3 15 

Ottumwa  to  Cilyriton. 

From  Ottumwa  to 

Miles. 

Albia, 

. 25 

Chariton, 

25  50 

RIVER  Dl 

Mississippi  Kiyer. 

From  St.  Louis  to  Rock  Island.  Miles. 

Alton, 

. 22 

Grafton, 

18 

Milan, 

. 24 

Yhota, 

42 

Worthington,  . 

. 52 

AY  estport. 

57 

Hamburg, 

. 62 

Clarksville,  . 

80 

Louisiana, 

Scott’s  Landing,  . 

. ^ . 82 

97 

Cincinnati, 

. 105 

Saverton, 

115 

Hannibal, 

. 123 

Marion  City, 

. 133 

Quincy,  . 

. 143 

La  Grange,  . 

155 

Smoot’s  Landing, 

. 159 

Canton, 

. 161 

Tully,  . . 

. 163 

Gregory’s  Landing, 

. 175 

Alexandria, 

. 185 

IG* 


OSCALOOSA  TO  COUNCIL  BlUFFS. 
From  Oscaloosa  to  Miles. 

Knoxville,  . . 25 

Indianola,  . . 25  50 

Winterset,  . . 25  75 

Lewis,  . . . 70  145 

Council  BliiiFs,  . . 60  205 

Faikfield  to  ICeosauqua,  20 

Muscatine  to  Buelington. 

From  Muscatine  to  Miles. 

Grandview,  . . 14 

Yv^ apello,  . . . 10  24 

Linton,  . . . 9 33 

Burlington,  . . 19  52 


Keokidi,  . . .190 

Nashville,  . . .198 

Montrose,  . . . 202 

Nauvoo,  ....  204 
Fort  Madison,  . . 214 

Pontoosuc,  . . . 220 

Burlington,  . . . 235 

Oquawka,  . . . 250 

Keithsburg,  . . . 262 

New  Boston,  . . . 269 

Muscatine,  . , . 299 

Drury,  ....  304 
Salem,  . . . 309 

Buffalo  and  Andalusia,  . 321 
Dock  Island  and  Davenport,  334 

Dock  Island  to  Galena. 

From  Rock  Island  to  Miles, 

hloline,  . . .3 

Hampton,  . . 9 12 

Le  Claire  and  Pt.  Byron,  6 18 

Princeton,  . . .5  23 

Cordovia,  . . 1 24 

Camanche,  . . 10  34 


18G 


IOWA  HANDBOOK 


From  Rock  Island  to 

Miles.  1 

Albany, 

2 

36 

Clinton,  . 

7 

43! 

Fulton, 

. 1 

44 

Lyons,  . 
Sabula, 

1 

45 

. 15 

60 

Savanna, 

2 

62 

Bellevue,  . 

. 18 

80 

Galena,  . 

12 

92 

Galena  to  St.  Paul. 

From  Galena  to 

Dubuque, 

24 

Dunleith,  . 

. 1 

25 

Potosi  Landing, 

14 

39 

Waupaton, . 

. 10 

49 

Buena  Vista,  . 

5 

54 

Cassville,  . 

. 4 

58 

Gutenberg, 

10 

68 

Clayton, 

. 12 

80 

Wyalusing, 

McGregor’s, 

5 

85 

. 6 

91 

Prairie  du  Chien, 

4 

95 

Red  House, 

. 5 

100 

Johnson’s  Landing, 

2 

102 

J^afayette, 

. 30 

132 

Columbus, 

2 

134 

Lansing, 

. 1 

135 

De  Soto, 

6 

141 

Victory, 

. 10 

151 

Badaxe  City,  . 

10 

161 

Warner’s  Landing, 

6 

167 

Brownsville,  . 

10 

177 

La  Crosse, 

. 12 

189 

Dacotah, 

12 

201 

Richmond, 

. 6 

207 

Monteville, 

5 

212 

Homer, 

. 10 

222 

Winona, 

7 

229 

Fountain  City,  . 

. 12 

241 

IMount  Vernon, 

14 

255 

IMinneiska, 

. 4 

259 

Alma, 

Wabashaw, 

15 

274 

. 10 

284 

From  Galena  to  Miles. 

Nelson’s  Landing,  . 3 287 

Reed’s  Landing,  . 2 289 

Foot  of  Lake  Pepin,  2 291 

North  Pepin,  . . 6 297 

Johnstown,  . . 2 299 

Lake  City,  . . 5 304 

Central  Pomt,  . 2 306 

Florence,  . . .3  309 

Maiden  Rock,  . 3 312 

Westerville,  . . 3 315 

Wacouta  (head  of  lake),  12  327 
Red  Wing,  . . 6 333 

Thing’s  Landing,  . 7 340 

Diamond  Bluff,  . ' .8  348 

Prescott,  . . J.3  361 

Point  Douglas,  . . 1 362 

Hastings,  . . 3 365 

Gray  Cloud,  . . 12  377 

Pine  Bend,  . . 4 381 

Red  Rock,  . . . 8 389 

Kaposia,  . . 3 392 

St.  Paul,  . . .5  397 

Pkescott  to  the  Falls  of 
St.  Croix. 

From  Falls  St.  Croix  to 

Afton,  ...  14 

Hudson,  . . . 8 22 

Stillwater.  . . 8 30 

Areola  Mills,  . . 8 38 

Marine,  . . . 5 43 

Osceola^  • • . 20  63 

Falls  St.  Croix,  . 14  77 

Missouri  Rfvt:r. 


From  Alton  to 

Mouth  of  Missouri,  . 7 

St.  Charles,  . . .34 

Mt.  Auburn,  ...  64 

Augusta,  . . . .69 

South  Point,  . . .76 

Washington,  . . .85 

Pinckney,  . . 94 

Hermann,  . . 109 


187 


IOWA 

Portland, 

St.  Aubert, 

Bennett’s  Landing,  . 
Month  of  Osage,  . 
Jefferson  City,  . 
Claysville,  . 

Marion,  . 

Nashville, 

Providence, 

Rocheport,  . 

Boonville, 

Arrow  Rock, 

Glasgow,  . 

Cambridge,  . 

Iveytesville  Landing, 
Brunswick,  . 

De’witt,  . 

Miami,  .... 
Hill’s  Landing, 

Waver  ly, 

Dover  Landing, 


N D B 0 0 K. 


Lexington,  . 

. 343 

Wellington, 

. 354 

Camden, 

. 364 

Napoleon, 

. 372 

Sibley,  . 

. 379 

Richfield, 

. 394 

Blue  Mills  Landing, 

. 404 

Liberty,  . 

. 414 

Wapie  City, 

. 420 

Randolph, 

. 428 

Kansas, 

. 433 

Park\411e, 

. 448 

Narrows  Landing, 

. 459 

Fort  Leavenworth,  . 

. 468 

Weston, 

. 475 

Columbus  Landing,  . 

. 504 

St.  Joseph,  . 

. 537 

Savannah, 

. 559 

Iowa  Point,  . 

. 585 

Council  Bluffs,  . 

. 789 

Sioux  City,  , 

. 890 

HA 

119 

139 

149 

152 

162 

169 

174 

187 

189 

201 

211 

226 

241 

249 

256 

275 

287 

293 

313 

319 

331 


IO¥A  AND  MINNESOTA  LAND  AGENCY. 


Tpie  author,  since  the  issue  of  his  former  works,  has 
had  hundreds  of  applications  for  information  respecting 
certain  localities  in  the  West:  the  price  of  land  or  of 
town  lots,  good  openings  for  manufactories,  or  mills,  stores, 
or  mechanics,  or  laborers,  extra  speculations,  etc.  Con- 
vinced of  the  need  of  such  an  agency,  he  has  in  his  recent 
tours  so  arranged  with  reliable  persons  in  various  quarters, 
that  he  will  be  enabled  to  give  almost  any  information 
desired  of  the  West  with  promptness.  Letters  of  inquiry 
are  of  importance  to  the  applicant  only,  and  a correct 
reply  costs  both  time  and  money ; therefore  those  writing, 
hereafter,  will  inclose  from  $1  to  $5,  according  to  the 
information  desired,  and  the  expense  to  be  incurred. 
Lands  bought  and  sold  in  every  county  in  Iowa  and 
Minnesota ; taxes  paid,  and  a general  agency  business 
transacted. 

Letters  relative  to  business  in  Minnesota  should  be 
addressed  to  Nathan  H.  Parker,  care  of  Snyder  & 
McFarlane,  Land  Agents,  Minneapolis,  Minnesota ; those 
relative  to  matters  west  of  the  Des  Moines  River,  to 
Parker  & Davis,  Sioux  City,  Iowa.  Letters  pertaining  to 
matters  on  and  east  of  the  Des  Moines  River  to  be 
addressed  to 

Nathan  II.  Parker, 

Clinton,  Iowa. 


(188) 


mm 


; 7S'; 


■f  'i  ■< 


■?/c’ 


•;il;  'lii]'  .*)vj/K‘--.  ..  ■■^.Ar''''i 


,^yi: ' s 4% ^ x- 


■■  ^ ■'t'jis-  ■ai,  ■■»-■>. f*j 

7.'  f'  ' ■ ‘ ' ^ 'V:  ^ ' 

,‘;o  ?/^.*  ''-'■  'Od  . '''.•,>■>0,';  »■,»,  >,,  -,',4,  ■'_ 


'^<=  ■ T_'  ■ v%;iy 


,*■-  ■7^■‘4^^I;:7VH.|  iVi,  '■'■ 

(Tt.  fl'*.  ,i'.  , ■J..l.ji^^.'"  'i  v ■. ,‘ „i,--0  S ? f i>  :-'-=7.4  ^fj'i'.  ; 

• ‘V"' 


. f ' -\~  =>IV'  ^ 


o. 


V- 


--V'V'.U'O?:.  .-SI^Oa' 


■■  -U  , ■ 


* c 


; 'I' 


I 


V 


i 


# 


■f- 


I 


